Had Less Than Ten Kinds of Bean? Don’t Call Yourself Chinese.

The world’s table begins with China’s little pulses

10 February 2025 marks the seventh World Pulses Day. This year’s theme is ‘Pulses: Bringing Diversity to Agrifood Systems’. Grow pulses, eat pulses, diversify agriculture, live healthily.

Soybeans, edamame and black beans are common fixtures on the dinner table, yet these pulses all trace their origins back to China.

Little beans, a rich history

The story of pulses in China stretches back millennia, with cultivation and consumption beginning thousands of years ago. The soybean was the first to be domesticated here and remains a vital food and cash crop to this day. Mung beans, adzuki beans and broad beans likewise hold significant places within China’s culinary heritage.

In traditional farming systems, soybeans have served not merely as a dietary staple but as a cornerstone of soil nutrient cycling. Their ability to form a symbiotic relationship with rhizobia bacteria allows them to fix nitrogen in the earth. This natural fertilisation has been instrumental in the development and success of crop rotation.

Little beans, going global

Riding the waves of trade and human migration, pulses spread from China to every corner of the globe. In the Han dynasty, the establishment of the Silk Road prompted Chinese crops to flow westward, with soybeans likely among the first. Pulses took root across Asia, Europe, the Americas and even Africa, becoming deeply woven into regional foodways. For example, after reaching Japan, soybeans were transformed into essential fermented staples like miso and tofu. Across the Americas, the Aztecs cultivated black beans and pinto beans. Beyond soybeans, varieties such as adzuki, mung and peas also traversed history, carried by traders and settlers to become indispensable ingredients in diverse cultures. Shaped by Chinese influence, Japan and Korea developed their own distinctive pulse-based dishes; while during the Ming and Qing dynasties, Chinese migrants introduced pulse-heavy diets to Southeast Asia, leaving a lasting imprint on local culinary traditions.

Little beans, seeing the world

Little beans, big world. Do not underestimate these humble legumes; they play a pivotal role in human history, culture, and diet. Curious how beans have shaped the globe? We have curated a selection of books on the subject, recommending that as you savour your beans, you also delve into their profound worldwide influence.

Jin Yamei: A Zhejiang Woman Who Went Global

The First to Introduce Traditional Chinese Soy Products to the United States

Jin Yamei, a woman who took her journey from China to the wider world, was not only among China’s first female university students to pursue advanced studies in the United States, but also a pioneer of early Western medicine in China. Yet she holds a lesser-known distinction: being the very first to introduce traditional Chinese soy products to America.

Throughout her career, which saw her travelling back and forth between China and the US, Jin poured considerable effort into championing the reputation of ‘Chinese cheese’ across American shores. She strove to break down cultural barriers, seeking acceptance within mainstream American society for soy staples that graced everyday Chinese tables: soya milk, bean sprouts, tofu, fermented bean curd, and even the unmistakably pungent stinky tofu. (Source: Global Crossroads)

The Magic Bean: The Rise of Soy in America

How did a crop originating in China spark an agricultural and culinary revolution across the United States?

Author Matthew Roth specialises in American history. He currently serves as Deputy Director of the Andrea Mitchell Center for the Study of American Democracy at Temple University in Philadelphia, teaches environmental history, and is a contributing writer for several magazines.

The soybean we take for granted today has followed a path of dissemination and development marked by remarkable turns. In 1900, China stood as the world’s top soy producer. By 2000, however, it had become America’s most vital cash crop, second only to maize in acreage. Through vivid and thorough research, Matthew Roth illuminates the soybean’s profound significance across science, agriculture, the environment, and technology. (Source: The Commercial Press)

Chinese Tofu

Wherever Chinese people go, tofu follows. Suited to stir-fries and broths alike, it pairs effortlessly with meat or vegetables;

its flavours range from bitter and spicy to sour and sweet, adaptable to any taste.

Chinese Tofu is a comprehensive volume devoted to the subject. Beyond straightforward recipes, it features essays, historical research, proverbs, poetry, folklore, and interviews. While Lin Haiyin is a notable contributor, the anthology also brings together writers from China, Japan, Korea, the US, and Germany. Each author pours their heart into describing the tofu they cherish, elevating the book from a mere practical guide to a work of literary and emotional depth. (Source: Guangxi Normal University Press)

Since 2015, the Farmer Seed Network has dedicated itself to conserving and utilising local pulses. Supported by the Vanke Public Welfare Foundation, it launched the ‘Small Beans, Great Health’ initiative to explore the intersections between pulses and biodiversity, food culture, ecological conservation, and climate adaptation.

Soybeans, an ancient crop native to China, embody generations of agricultural wisdom and remain deeply woven into our diets, wellbeing, and customs. We have travelled across the country to document the rich diversity of indigenous pulses, examining how they enrich the soil, sustain communities, and reshape our relationship with food. From field to table, this journey is more than a reflection on sustainable eating; it is a rediscovery of regional flavours and wholesome diets.

On World Pulses Day, let us take a moment to revisit the stories of these humble beans across China.

We have compiled these stories of local terroir into the booklet below, which is available in both Chinese and English. Click through to read.

Beans in Progress: The Sino-German ‘Tofu Network’

The concept behind the ‘Tofu Network’ stems from the collaborative achievements of the Sino-German Agricultural Biodiversity Network. Experts from both China and Germany jointly proposed the initiative to establish this network, aiming to foster deeper exchange and cooperation in the field of agricultural biodiversity, with a particular focus on issues concerning soybean and tofu dietary cultures. The Tofu Network is dedicated to raising public awareness of the rich heritage embedded in traditional soybean and tofu foodways, while simultaneously promoting the conservation, utilisation, and transmission of local soybean varieties across China and globally. It also seeks to explore innovative pathways for harmoniously integrating traditional dietary cultures with the green transition of agriculture.

With the backing of the Sino-German Agricultural Centre, the Farmers’ Seed Network commissioned Zhinan Storefront to undertake research on Chinese tofu, culminating in the drafting and compilation of *Tofu in China: Preliminary Research on the Sino-German Tofu Network*. The report traces the historical and cultural evolution of tofu within China, placing particular emphasis on an analysis of its diverse characteristics across various agricultural eco-regions. It illuminates tofu’s multifaceted contributions to local culinary traditions, economic growth, and biodiversity conservation. Furthermore, the study delves into tofu’s potential as a conduit for international cooperation, underscoring its crucial role in fostering sustainable agricultural and food systems.