After a Decade in Beijing, a Shandong Woman Decides to Learn Farming

Today’s main task was building ridges for the maize plot: first stretching a guide string for alignment, then scooping soil from either side to raise the mound. The ridges serve to demarcate the beds and make it easier to channel water for irrigation. With each pass of the shovel, I felt a quiet sense of calm settling over me.

15 March, Day 2: Fully Ripe Strawberries, Vine-Dried Strawberries

Picking strawberries may sound straightforward, but it actually requires a careful touch. You must keep the stalk and leaves attached and avoid nicking the skin. Once a strawberry is bruised or split, it barely keeps, so I was hesitant to start at first.

Removing the strawberry runners, however, is comparatively simple.

Runners are stems that grow horizontally along the ground. The lateral branches near the base feature longer internodes, and each node can produce leaves, buds, and adventitious roots. Once separated from the parent plant, a node can take root and grow into a new plant.

To prevent the runners from spreading unchecked and to direct nutrients into the existing flowers and fruit, we pull out any fresh runners daily.

I had assumed Xi Qing farm’s strawberries were the absolute best. Yet today, I tried a strawberry left to dry on the vine, and the aroma and sweetness were incredibly intense—a true revelation.

Much like dried apricots left on the branch, these naturally dried berries form when fully ripened fruit is missed during harvest and cures in the wind. Underripe strawberries lack flavour, while overripe ones turn soft and are unsuitable for picking or selling. But once naturally dried, they develop a wholly different character. You won’t find these vine-dried strawberries in shops, but tasting them feels like a wonderful bonus of interning at the farm!

III. 16 Day 3: Transplanting Maize Seedlings

Sweet and waxy maize is also one of Xi Qing farm’s flagship crops. Customers at the Beijing Organic Farmers’ Market say it tastes wonderful whether boiled or grilled.

Wang Xin has been growing maize for eight years. As with his other crops, he experiments with different varieties and farming techniques, hoping each year’s harvest will surpass the last.

Today we transplanted over a thousand corn seedlings, walking through the full planting process: trenching, spreading fertiliser, setting out the seedlings, and watering. The trick lies in getting the details right: spacing between seedlings, fertiliser quantity, planting depth, and levelling the soil before watering.

The soil in the corn plot was wonderfully loose; we could dig the holes entirely by hand. While transplanting, we were struck by the brilliant white root hairs at the base of the seedlings.

Crops only develop such healthy white root hairs in truly healthy soil. You simply wouldn’t see roots like this if chemical fertilisers or poor compost were used.

Wang Xin explained that chemical fertilisers are water-soluble and exist as ions. A plant’s primary and lateral roots can absorb these ionic nutrients directly, making root hairs redundant. Organic farming, however, offers very few water-soluble nutrients. Plants must instead rely on their fine root hairs to break down organic matter to secure enough nourishment.

I naively assumed that simply avoiding pesticides, chemical fertilisers, and herbicides would be enough to grow delicious vegetables. These past few days have shown me the challenges of ecological farming and the exacting demands it places on growers, leaving me feeling somewhat uncertain.03.17 Day 4: Understanding Plants, Understanding Nature

Today’s tasks included picking strawberries, removing runners, and harvesting vegetables. The strawberry beds are hosting aphids, which leave the infested leaves with a sticky residue. Wang Xin explained that the leaves are covered with aphids being ‘farmed’ by ants, as the ants feed on the aphids’ sweet-tasting honeydew. Yet Wang Xin doesn’t view the ants as pests. Quite the opposite: he considers them an integral part of the farm’s ecosystem.

To manage the aphids, Wang Xin introduced Harlequin ladybirds. Later, seven-spot ladybirds also turned up on the farm. Even with ladybirds present, it’s impossible to eradicate the aphids entirely. Wang Xin noted that as spring temperatures climb, aphid populations surge before the ladybirds have had time to arrive. During this window, the strawberry plants must simply tough it out on their own reserves until the predators appear.

Leaving a grass border along the edge of the strawberry tunnel also serves to create a micro-habitat. This provides shelter for a variety of insects, aiding in more effective pest and disease management.

The most important takeaway today is this: ecological balance is the absolute foundation of ecological agriculture, far more critical than technique alone. You must understand plants, and understand nature. Whether it’s biodynamics, natural farming, or permaculture, the ultimate goal of all these approaches is to restore the ecological equilibrium of the soil and fields, allowing crops to grow as naturally as possible.

20 March, Day 7: Thinning fruit and loosening the soil

To improve the quality of the strawberries, I’ve been thinning out both fruit and flowers daily, removing malformed berries, weak fruit, and poor blossoms. Thinning weak flowers reduces nutrient drain, allowing resources to be prioritised for the blooms that have already set fruit. The result is strawberries that are larger, more uniform, and more nutritious.

Consumers who prioritise appearance might not realise that the misshapen fruit from Xiqing Farm tends to be sweeter. This is due to the plant’s nutritional compensation effect, as seen with this fan-shaped strawberry. Wang Xin suspects its unusual shape is linked to the low temperatures in November last year.

However, there are many causes of fruit deformity. Misshapen conventional fruit could also result from improper use of growth regulators, radiation, pollution, or pests and diseases. Therefore, not all misshapen fruit is particularly tasty.

The afternoon task was tilling. Tilling involves lifting, breaking up, and aerating the soil to make it level and loose, allowing seeds to breathe and establish themselves more easily. When breaking up the soil, be careful not to leave any smooth, compacted crusts, as these hinder air penetration and can compromise the soil structure.

Wang Xin explained that at Xiqing Farm, the higher the organic matter content in the soil, the darker its colour and the healthier its condition. In well-structured soil, you will generally be able to see a crumb structure.

III. 24 Day 11

This morning’s task was again trimming strawberry runners. Today’s focus was observing pests and diseases affecting the crops. In addition to aphids, Xiqing’s strawberries were also showing signs of red spider mite infestation and powdery mildew.

Wang Xin has always emphasised the concept of ecological balance. Pests and diseases will always threaten strawberries, but with healthy soil and a resilient ecosystem, large-scale outbreaks are unlikely. A minor reduction in yield is perfectly acceptable. It brings to mind Wang Xin’s earlier remark that a third of the carrots planted outside the greenhouse last winter were devoured by mole rats, and birds will naturally peck at some of the strawberries grown inside.

As always: to practise ecological farming, you must be mentally prepared to accept these losses.

03.27 Day 14: Weeds

Today’s main task was weeding the maize field. The weeds were actually barely visible, which is precisely the ideal time to hoe. Young weeds are easy to remove, but once they mature and their roots go deep, they become far harder to eradicate.

Soil moisture is also crucial when weeding. After watering, wait a day or two and check the ground; if it supports your weight without sinking, it’s ready to be worked.

The frequency of weeding depends entirely on the circumstances. Take the corn at Xiqing Farm as an example: once the seedlings reach roughly knee height, they can coexist with the weeds, rendering further weeding unnecessary. This closely mirrors weed management in natural farming. The types of vegetation that take root are heavily influenced by soil temperature and the surrounding environment. Remember, grass and weeds play a vital role in the farm’s ecosystem. If an ecological farm boasts utterly weed-free, pristine fields, it’s certainly worth raising an eyebrow.

03.29 Day 16: Carrots

In the morning, we transplanted cucumber seedlings and thinned the carrots. After just a week, the carrot foliage has transformed dramatically, growing far faster than anticipated. They are thriving beautifully and look utterly appetising.

III. 30 Day 17: PGS Visit

In the morning, the Beijing Organic Farmers’ Market organised a participatory farm visit (PGS) for consumers. Wang Xin gave the visitors a thorough rundown of the farm’s basic operations and the finer details of growing strawberries.

What struck me most was Wang Xin’s keen awareness of climate change and how she adapts to it. Normally, the Spring Festival coincides with the season when Xiqing strawberries are brought to market. Yet this year, yields were meagre. Scorching heat in September and October last year killed off a great many seedlings, followed by a plummeting temperature in November that forced a large number of plants into dormancy. Consequently, the strawberry season was pushed back by several months.

As a result, Wang Xin placed particular emphasis on forecasting weather patterns. She believes farmers should attempt these forecasts early in the year, draft production plans accordingly, and take proactive measures within their reach rather than merely reacting once a problem has already surfaced.

The principle is sound, but it’s hardly achievable without a proper grasp of agriculture and climate. Begin by training yourself to notice the subtle shifts in weather and the farm’s environment.04.07 Day 25: Raising tomato and okra seedlings

Aside from removing the runners today, I also started seedlings for tomatoes and okra. The base of the seed-starting mix is soil, peat, and compost. Wang Xin said there’s no rigid ratio for the blend; the key is to judge it by hand, mixing it until the texture feels about right.

I also weeded a small patch of ground by the front of the polytunnel. The first thing I noticed was how wonderfully soft the soil was. This corner has been left fallow for four or five years, which Wang Xin noted is precisely the condition needed for no-till farming.

No-till farming is a modern cultivation technique that stands in contrast to traditional ploughing and sowing. The practice involves minimising soil preparation and tilling, while leaving crop residue from the previous harvest or maintaining grass cover. In short, cultivation is reduced to just what is necessary to allow seeds to germinate. No-till methods help preserve soil structure and enrich it with insects and microorganisms, but they are not universally applicable. Not all soils or crops suit this approach, nor is it as simple as merely laying straw or weeds over the ground.

04.13 Day 31: The Importance of Timing

These four rows of maize are visibly shorter than the rest. They were all planted at the same time, yet the difference is striking simply because the soil was loosened two days too late. The lesson is clear: timing is absolutely crucial in agriculture.

04.24 Day 42: Herbicides and Buffer Zones

In the agricultural park where Xiqing Farm is located, Wang Xin is the only household practising ecological farming; the surrounding farmers mostly rely on conventional methods. One local grower of conventional strawberries often sees us hoeing weeds by hand and frequently comes over to persuade us to “seal the ground” with herbicides. I have witnessed the devastating aftermath of land “sealed” this way: climbing hempvine (Japanese hop) and shepherd’s purse wither and die completely. Even when farmers are mowing grass for their own livestock, they actively avoid plots treated with herbicides. Can fruits and vegetables grown with herbicides and pesticides truly be considered healthy?

This is why establishing buffer zones is essential for ecological farming to prevent contamination from neighbouring conventional operations.Epilogue

Three months passed in the blink of an eye. Watching the maize, tomatoes, watermelons, and other crops I planted gradually flower, fruit, grow, and ripen, I find myself constantly marvelling: they grow so beautifully! It is truly magical that the land can yield so much food.

Witnessing the vigorous growth of the crops in their natural environment, and tasting the authentic aroma and true flavour of the food, has only strengthened my resolve to pursue ecological farming.

During my time at the farm, Wang Xin taught me a great deal and helped me clarify my path forward. Next, I plan to establish an ecological orchard in my hometown, hoping to grow the fragrant apples I have always longed for—ones that taste just like those from my childhood.

Foodthink Author | Zhaoyan

A second-cohort ecological farming intern at Foodthink. She holds a bachelor’s degree in Automation, spent ten years living and working in Beijing, and is now returning to her hometown to run an ecological farm.

About the Ecological Agriculture Internship Programme