Why are young urbanites choosing the countryside?
Below are a few representative responses. Some of these individuals have already set off, ready to begin a more grounded new life at their internship farms.
We wish our partners in Foodthink’s 2023 ‘Ecological Agriculture Internship Programme’ the best as they seek their answers through the earth, nature, labour, and learning.
Reflections and Actions Inspired by Food
I visited the agricultural supply stores and was shocked by the sheer variety and comprehensive functions of the pesticides and chemicals. Beside the vegetable and melon greenhouses, banners were openly advertising leek growth boosters, fruit colouring agents, and sizing agents—even eggplants had a ‘gloss-enhancing’ agent!
Although my parents were dissatisfied with the situation, they felt powerless to change it. I thought that if I could undertake ecological vegetable farming, on a small scale, I could improve the meals of those around me. On a larger scale, if I could change the mindset of local greenhouse farmers so they no longer rely on pesticides and chemical fertilisers, and rediscover the taste of vegetables from my childhood, it would be a truly meaningful endeavour.
Male, 23. After graduating with an undergraduate degree in Optoelectronic Information Science and Engineering, he worked for a state-owned enterprise, but his heart lay elsewhere.
Later, I rarely visited the fields. It was only after I started working in the city that I realised my most comfortable moments were those when I was closest to the land.
After starting work, living alone and cooking for myself, I began to notice the nuances between different varieties of the same vegetable. For instance, some tomatoes have a ‘mealy’ texture, which I prefer for scrambled eggs, while others are better suited for a soup base. I have always been one to dig deeper, and I felt a strong desire to see how my lovely vegetables grow and to understand exactly what shapes their flavour.
Female, 31. After graduating with a degree in Landscape Architecture, she worked for a year in a consensus community in the United States. Upon returning to China, she became a multi-hyphenate professional, balancing roles as a translator, photographer, and English teacher.
The land is one of the primary links to this way of life. Far too much land has been requisitioned for development, and too much has been stripped of its fertility by over-fertilisation and pesticides. Exquisitely packaged, expensive fruit is a prime example. Fruits that are organically grown—healthy and delicious but ‘ugly’ in appearance—often go unsold. Consequently, farmers are forced to use synthetic fertilisers and pesticides to ensure their produce looks and tastes appealing, leading to soil degradation. Consumers then pay a premium for these products. Ultimately, we pay more for unhealthy fruit while destroying the earth—a vicious cycle in which humanity is the final victim.
Ecological farms are a vital link in the sustainable development of our planet and all of humanity. I envision these farms as hubs for Community Supported Agriculture (CSA), working in tandem with local government and community projects to foster sustainable living within the surrounding area and encourage local participation. It is about treating oneself as a living being rather than a disposable commodity. Each of us should take responsibility for what we consume, rather than eating merely for the sake of eating; for the enjoyment of organic, healthy food is a gift from nature and a fundamental dignity of our existence in this world.
Mastering practical, down-to-earth knowledge and skills
26 years old. After graduating from university in the UK with a degree in Environment and Sustainability, she returned to China and worked for two non-profit organisations focused on the environment and agriculture. She is now preparing to leave her current role.
Female, 23. After graduating with an undergraduate degree in agriculture, she became an agricultural trainer at an agri-company.
In the future, I will likely pursue a career related to ecological agriculture, or perhaps return to my hometown as a young entrepreneur. I hope that this internship will deepen my understanding of ecological farming.
31. A German major by training, she previously worked as a chef in fine-dining restaurants in Beijing and Canada. After leaving her post, she returned to her hometown to take some time off.
I have previously followed issues such as environmental protection, flora and fauna, and water sources. In the last two years, I have developed an interest in climate, agriculture, cultivation, and the life and operation of farms. I also want to use this internship to see what I can achieve in a new field and region, and to find where the limits of my capabilities lie.
Male, 22. A recent graduate in Chinese Literature.
Female, 26, Bachelor’s and Master’s in Chemistry from the UK, has left her job
I also wanted to see the reality of farming. Although I have studied permaculture and been deeply inspired by *The One-Straw Revolution* and *Qimin Yaoshu*, and have read various books on cultivation to gain some theoretical knowledge, I still lack a comprehensive grasp of how vegetables and fruit trees grow, as well as the broader scope of agricultural production. I need more practical experience. What I most want to learn is cultivation—understanding the full growth cycle of plants and learning about seeds. Additionally, I am interested in product processing and farm management. I hope to spend a significant amount of time working in production on a farm, discovering my strengths through hands-on experience.
Understanding Agriculture and the Countryside through Practice
Male, 23, a recent graduate in Social Work. During his university years, he took part in agricultural projects across various parts of the country and established ecological farming initiatives on campus.
Having spent my childhood in the countryside, I was struck upon entering university by the sight of vast tracts of farmland lying derelict. I felt a deep sense of regret regarding the education provided and the missed opportunities for my peers, and I felt a driving need to do something. In 2020, I found an opportunity to learn ecological farming at a family farm, which laid the groundwork for my later agricultural practices at university. Unfortunately, the area was hit by floods, and overnight, the crops vanished. This made me truly realise the hardship of farming and the fragility of our food security. It prompted me to proactively study the pervasive impact that climatic anomalies have on different regions, societies, and stages of production.
Young people in major cities and universities, as the generation of the future, need to gradually come to this realisation. They must understand that future education and careers will increasingly shift towards the theme of reconciling with the world we inhabit. I believe this requires a specific kind of education—one that requires me to leave the campus, make certain trade-offs, and explore these paths firsthand.
Female, 24, postgraduate student of anthropology.
Ecological agriculture reminds me of my own studies—ethnology, anthropology, and even sociology. What actual change can these disciplines bring to the world? What change can ecological agriculture bring in today’s society, where the pursuit of speed, scale, and superficial beauty is the mainstream? Who is persisting with ecological agriculture, what exactly is it, and how does it differ from traditional Chinese agriculture? If it is the same, are we simply moving backwards?
Crucially, are those choosing ecological agriculture following a path of self-congratulatory asceticism, or are they carving out a new ‘influencer’ niche amidst the obsession with speed, scale, and beauty? Or is their behaviour truly having an impact on local ecosystems and communities? If so, what constitutes an ‘impact’, and what makes such an impact meaningful?
I have pondered these questions for a long time. It began because my father always maintains that pork from his era tasted better than today’s—that it had the real taste of pork. He believes today’s pigs are all feed-lot pigs and are no longer the same breeds as before. I feel nothing of the sort; I have grown accustomed to the taste of modern pork. So, I am curious: what exactly is being satisfied when my father’s imagination of ‘past’ pork is fulfilled?
Practising a self-consistent way of living and working
Male, 25. After graduating from a vocational college with a diploma in marketing, he worked in insurance and as a pharmaceutical representative. Disliking certain corporate habits and attitudes, he hopes to return to his hometown to live and start his own business.
As a child, I often spent my time in the fields catching fish, shrimps and crabs, or chasing wild rabbits, hunting pheasants and catching hedgehogs. Now, when I go home, none of those are to be seen. It is also clear that the soil quality has declined and become severely compacted; more and more fertiliser is used every year. Even when I want to go fishing, it is hard to find any earthworms.
I remember when applying pesticides, even when covered from head to toe, my whole body would break out in redness and itch and sting for days. My mother told me about an uncle who was applying pesticides: his feet were itching and hurting so badly that he couldn’t bear it, so he just sprayed the pesticide directly onto them, thinking, ‘If I die, I die,’ because it was just too painful. Surprisingly, it actually made them better.
In my first year at a vocational college in the city, I still went home during the holidays to help. After I started working, I grew spring onions, garlic and chillies in my rented accommodation, as well as tomatoes, cucumbers, luffas and pumpkins. I love farm work and can handle the hardship; more than that, I want to learn ecological farming techniques.
Since my last job ended, I haven’t looked for another. I’ve been living in a rented place using my own savings. I buy my own groceries and cook, spending my time walking, reading, watching films, listening to music, playing games, gardening, and tending to my landlord’s dozens of succulents. It is a genuine joy not to have to do those rubbish jobs from before; I rarely even think about what I will do for a living in the future.
The internet industry or agriculture are the paths I am currently considering, but thinking about the tech world, the ‘996’ overtime is inevitable. I would rather be out in the fields racing to harvest; it’s far more satisfying.
Female, 30, Master’s in Clinical Medicine. She previously spent a year volunteering at a temple.
Having cooked for myself and shopped for groceries frequently over the last two years, I have become acutely aware of food safety issues. I feel that rather than spending my time on inconsequential work for a paycheck, leaving my food safety and wellbeing in the hands of others, it is better to create for myself.
Recently, as I have been considering my career options, my resolve to pursue agriculture has only grown stronger. To truly experience and learn, rather than letting it remain a mere imagination, I plan to take part in the ecological farm internship programme.
Female, 27, with a diploma in Western Culinary Arts. She has previously worked in the pastry sections of five-star hotels and international cruise ships. In 2019, she started her own venture, dedicated to nature and environmental education in her hometown.
- Try and experience as much as possible, exploring work-life balance and further possibilities;
- Cultivate a more rustic side to my life, honing my patience and resilience;
- Connect with more like-minded partners and rediscover the art of teamwork;
- Hope to gain a deeper experience by revisiting ecological farms through the lenses of nature education, environmental education, and zero-waste;
- Seek to better understand the relationship between nature, crops, other living organisms, and humans through ecological farms;
- Enjoy good food and experience the culinary cultures of different regions;
- Explore how ecological agriculture is affected by the broader context of climate change.
Female, 26. Having graduated with an undergraduate degree in Sociology in Europe, she has been accepted into a Master’s programme in Sociology/Anthropology at a prestigious US university and is currently on a gap year.
I want to use my body. To forge it, to wear it out, and to merge it with the natural soil and wind. I want to see if, after doing so, I can find a new, sincere, and grounded answer to what it truly means to be alive.
Starting from the most basic elements—the land and food—I want to become a grounded person and lay a foundation for both my mind and body. I want to cultivate a sense of judgement regarding basic needs and values.
I want to learn cultivation and the associated skills, using my own body to obtain the food that sustains me. This is a form of respect for the act of eating and predation. I want to know what it actually tastes like when cultivation, physical labour, fear, harvest, eating, sharing, selling, and storing all come together.
In my childhood, I was allowed to return to my hometown for the summer holidays. Setting up stoves, riding wild horses, catching jumping chickens—on the grasslands, these memories are jumbled together with scattered plastic bottles at my feet and newspaper reports about the degradation of the local pastures and problems with grazing. The backwardness of education and healthcare, the harsh climate, my mother’s aversion to her hometown and her own ambitions—all of these gradually pulled me away. I know that I am loved by the leaves and by nature; I have plenty of passion, yet I have always felt powerless.
I have ideas, but little practice, and I lack a community of like-minded people. I am someone who only finds vitality and renewal through action; I must face this part of my nature. The day-and-night labour of a farm and the observation of plants and animals provide a fitting opportunity to find the answers to everything mentioned above.
I read the accounts shared by previous interns and farm mentors, and I believe I can “learn” something from these farm owners. I identify with their values and envy their capabilities and simplicity. Simply put, I would rather become a person like them than become a professor.
Next Stop: The Field
Once they arrive in the fields, what stories will they encounter, what will they gain, and what new ideas will they form? Please stay tuned for further reports from Foodthink.
Programme Coordinator: Ma Xiaochao
Editor: Tianle