The Potato Thrower

Foodthink’s Perspective

On 17 January 2026, Mercosur (including countries such as Argentina and Brazil, hereinafter referred to as “Mercosur”) and the European Union formally signed a free trade agreement in Asunción, the capital of Paraguay. Prior to this, the agreement had already sparked large-scale protests among farmers in Europe, who feared that cheap South American agricultural products would threaten their livelihoods. Against a backdrop of increasingly unstable global agrifood supply chains, farmers in many countries are facing similar pressures. The questions of systemic fairness raised by EU farmers in a distant land may, perhaps, provide us with some insight.

◉ Van Gogh’s *The Potato Eaters*. Source: Van Gogh Museum official website

Last winter, while visiting the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam, I came across one of Van Gogh’s most famous works, *The Potato Eaters* (1885). In the painting, under a dim light, a family huddles around a table for dinner, with nothing before them but a platter of steaming boiled potatoes and a few cups of coffee.

Potatoes were once the quintessential staple of rural European life and a symbol of the dignity of the labouring poor. To this day, they remain one of the most vital crops in European agriculture. Through this work, Van Gogh sought to convey a specific truth: “These people, eating potatoes by the light of an oil lamp, have tilled the earth with the very hands they now stretch into the dish; it is a testament to manual labour, and to how honestly they have earned their food.”

As I left the museum, still reflecting on the painting, a news alert flashed across my phone. In the streets of Brussels, some 200 kilometres away, nearly ten thousand farmers from across the European Union were protesting. And their “weapons” of choice were the very potatoes they had grown in their own fields.

◉ Scenes from the protests as reported by CCTV News. Source: CCTV News
Mud-caked potatoes were hurled, one by one and shovel by shovel, at the EU headquarters. In a different turn, farmers used the potato as a means to defend their livelihoods and the dignity of their labour. From “the potato eaters” to “the potato throwers”, a crop that belonged on the dinner plate had become a relentless weapon of protest in the hands of its producers.

What drove EU farmers to unrest and onto the streets was the EU-Mercosur Trade Agreement, then under deliberation and nearing signature within the EU headquarters. Since negotiations first began in 1999, the opposition and protests from EU farmers have been incessant.

Why have EU farmers opposed this agreement with such intensity and persistence?

I.The Trauma of Grain Prices

Their fears regarding the agreement’s implementation are far from baseless; rather, they stem from a trauma that has yet to heal.

This trauma began with the shelling in the Black Sea. Following the outbreak of the Russia-Ukraine conflict, shipping routes for Ukrainian grain via the Black Sea were blocked, forcing exports to shift towards inland European nations. In response, the EU introduced ‘Autonomous Trade Measures’ (ATMs) in June 2022, temporarily scrapping import tariffs and quota restrictions on Ukrainian agricultural products. Although these measures are officially set to end in June 2025, this initial gesture of goodwill led to unforeseen consequences.

Because land transport is more costly, vast quantities of Ukrainian grain, poultry, and other agricultural goods did not reach more distant markets. Instead, they pooled in neighbouring Eastern European countries such as Poland and Hungary, where transport costs were lower. This surge of cheap agricultural products inevitably crashed local market prices in Eastern Europe, while the EU failed to provide effective market protections or compensation.

During the recent farmer protests in Brussels, a Polish demonstrator mentioned in an interview: “The price of Polish wheat has halved, dropping from over 1,000 zloty per tonne to 600 zloty (approx. 1,300 RMB at the time). And it’s not just wheat; it includes poultry, honey, and many other agricultural products.”

This EU market-opening policy, triggered by the Russia-Ukraine conflict, brought more than just economic shock to farmers; it created a crisis of trust. Beyond the volatility of market prices, farmers were left frustrated and disillusioned by the sluggishness and inefficiency of the EU’s subsequent relief mechanisms.

Consequently, when the EU-Mercosur Trade Agreement emerged, EU farmers saw not an opportunity, but the threat of history repeating itself—a foreseeable ‘market invasion’ on a scale even larger, at a lower cost, and under looser rules than the influx of Ukrainian grain.

◉ Some media outlets have described this as the largest pan-European farmers’ protest in Brussels this century. Image source: CCTV News

II. Double Environmental Standards

The EU-Mercosur Trade Agreement aims to eliminate the vast majority of tariff barriers between the two parties.

Negotiations for the agreement have spanned more than 25 years since they first began in 1999. In the early stages, significant discrepancies existed due to the EU’s stringent environmental requirements and Mercosur’s efforts to protect its domestic industries. Despite several periods of progress, the two sides remained deadlocked over ‘environmental’ and ‘agricultural’ issues.

In recent years, the global geopolitical uncertainty stemming from the US has, ironically, increased the urgency to sign the agreement. Although multiple rounds of farmer protests had previously delayed the signing, this time, the resistance proved futile. The agreement was formally signed on 17 January 2026 in Asunción, the capital of Paraguay, although it must still be approved by the European Parliament and reviewed by the parliaments of the Mercosur member states before it officially comes into force.

For EU farmers, this is far more than a mere trade document. Regarding agricultural products, under the agreement, the EU will open 82% of its tariff lines for imports in exchange for Mercosur reducing tariffs on 91% of high-value-added EU products, such as cars and machinery. At the heart of these negotiations, the EU has used market access for agricultural products as a bargaining chip to carve out growth opportunities for its dominant industrial sectors.

Once the agreement comes into force, the main arteries of the EU agricultural economy—such as grains and livestock—will be the first to feel the impact, leaving European agriculture severely wounded. This has been the primary catalyst for the repeated protests by EU farmers in recent years.

Argentina, Brazil, Paraguay, and Uruguay are all livestock powerhouses. Of greatest concern to EU farmers is the influx of beef products from these core Mercosur member states. The agreement has even been vividly described as ‘trading cars for beef’.

◉ South America is exporting its beef to the entire world.

To appease farmers in EU member states such as France and Poland, the EU demanded strict quota management for the most sensitive agricultural products within the agreement. For example, the annual quota for beef is only 99,000 tonnes; a preferential tariff rate of 7.5% applies within this quota, while high tariffs remain for quantities exceeding it. This amount represents only about 1.5% of the EU’s own beef production and is less than half of current imports from Mercosur. Similar quota restrictions apply to products such as poultry and pork.

Yet, due to discrepancies in production resources and standards, this seemingly free and fair trade agreement left EU farmers unable to compete with the Mercosur livestock industry from the very outset.

For behind Mercosur’s robust livestock capacity and export competitiveness lies an environmental and regulatory cost that is often overlooked.

South American beef’s price advantage relies on vast local pastures and immense scales of farming—a natural bounty that is being systematically overexploited. In Brazil, approximately 70% of deforested land in the Amazon has been converted into cattle pastures. Beyond the expansion of grazing land, the large-scale monoculture of soybeans for animal feed is sacrificing the biodiversity of the Cerrado. Meanwhile, continuous deforestation and livestock activities generate massive carbon emissions, further exacerbating global climate change. In 2025, Brazil surpassed the United States for the first time to become the world’s largest beef producer.

◉ *Rainforest Cowboys*, published by the University of Texas Press in 2015. Author Jeffrey Holler describes the history of large-scale deforestation for pasture expansion in Brazil.
This practice of shifting a portion of environmental costs onto the rest of the world constitutes an “invisible subsidy” for Mercosur. EU farmers have pointedly condemned this as unfair. Although the EU and its member states have attempted to appease public sentiment and protect domestic industries through “import standards” and “geographical indications”, for the farmers, this is far from enough. At this juncture, they are not only enduring unfair competition from external markets but are also left to shoulder the exorbitant costs and existential pressures brought about by the EU’s agricultural green transition.

III. The Noose of Agricultural Green Transition

In December 2019, the European Commission announced the European Green Deal. In May of the following year, the EU formally introduced the “Farm to Fork Strategy”, calling for a drastic reduction in chemical inputs and the implementation of strict environmental standards, positioning this strategy as the core of agricultural transformation. Its goal is to reduce the risk associated with chemical pesticide use by 50% by 2030 and to dedicate 25% of agricultural land to organic farming.

However, farmers will bear high transition costs as a result. They must invest in new equipment, switch to more expensive organic inputs, and leave parts of their land fallow in exchange for ecological subsidies.

Although the Common Agricultural Policy supports this transition through subsidies, practical issues such as ongoing controversies and long timeframes persist. The key issue is that the subsidies provided by the EU are largely geared towards ongoing support during the transition, rather than as startup capital for initial investments. The World Business Council for Sustainable Development (WBCSD) estimates that initial investments range from €2,000 to €5,000 per hectare, with a payback period of up to nine years; even with subsidy support, farmers still face funding gaps. Secondly, regarding the target of halving chemical pesticide use, simulations suggest that transitioning grain and oilseed production to green agriculture carries a risk of reduced yields. Farmers find themselves torn between environmental mandates and their very livelihoods.

More seriously, there are structural issues in the distribution of subsidies; data indicates that 80% of agricultural subsidies flow to only 20% of agricultural entities. This subsidy policy, which tilts towards large-scale, technologically advanced enterprises, makes it difficult for small and medium-sized farmers—those who truly need help—to benefit. Furthermore, market uncertainty driven by energy price fluctuations and trade competition has further eroded farmers’ confidence in pursuing the green transition, as it remains a long-term and high-risk investment.

IV. The Green Transition Cannot Be Shouldered by Farmers Alone

The ‘potato shells’ launched on the streets of Brussels hit more than just the EU headquarters; they tore open a rift between ideal and reality. In Europe, where systems are well-established and subsidies are plentiful, the green transition of agriculture has still triggered such frequent and fierce backlash. What, then, happens when the same issues land in countries where the institutional foundations are weaker and market volatility more frequent?

The core of the EU farmers’ protests is not a resistance to agricultural transition, but a question of who should bear the cost. When market liberalisation and high environmental standards are pursued simultaneously, the costs often fall first upon the producers.

This predicament is not unique to the EU. Since ‘green agriculture’ was first written into the government’s Central Document No. 1 in 2016, and the term ‘low-carbon agriculture‘ first appeared in the Central Document No. 1 of 2026, Chinese agriculture has also embarked on its own path of transition.

A report titled *Agricultural Green Transition in the Context of Chinese-style Modernisation*, published this February—authored by institutional experts and scholars with the participation of several social organisations—suggests that China has pushed forward rapid agricultural modernisation and green transition simultaneously in the short term. This has created a ‘parallel’ effect, resulting in the coexistence of traditional petroleum-based agriculture and green agriculture, while a gap persists between the formulation and implementation of green agricultural policies. Furthermore, the speed and direction of the green transition vary across different agricultural operators, regions, and management methods, exhibiting diverse characteristics. Simultaneously, there is a tension between standardised industrial agriculture and diversified smallholders. China also faces challenges such as a massive population, consumption upgrades, and a scarcity of resources per capita.

When policy ideals reach the fields, can ‘green’ truly become a choice that farmers can afford, understand, trust, and sustain? Or will it simply become another passive task to be endured?

In actual production, the price of green agricultural inputs is exorbitant compared to conventional products. For instance, the price of fully biodegradable mulch films is often more than twice that of ordinary films, and the procurement and transport costs of organic fertilisers have risen year by year. For smallholders operating on a dispersed basis, this means a sharp increase in input costs for the individual farmer.

Against a backdrop of low grain prices and scarce arable land, farmers have grown accustomed to a ‘high input, high output’ model focused solely on yield growth. On one hand, chemical fertilisers and pesticides provide immediate results that are visible within a single season; on the other, the green transition requires a long wait, with benefits appearing only after three to five years. Faced with the basic need for food and a livelihood, farmers have almost no room for hesitation.

Meanwhile, the transition to green agriculture faces barriers in technical promotion. Breaking the dependence on chemicals, improving yields and quality by enhancing soil, and mastering supporting planting techniques all require systematic experiential guidance. The capacity for adoption among farmers varies widely; in particular, the current mainstay of grain production has spent a lifetime using chemical fertilisers and pesticides under the guidance of agricultural suppliers and policy. In a sense, they have been ‘deskilled’, making it extremely difficult to retrain them to produce agriculture using ecological and green methods.

On the road to agricultural green transition, Chinese farmers face challenges not only in frontline production but also through ‘invisible’ hidden costs. When straw burning is prohibited via a ‘one-size-fits-all’ blanket ban, environmental pressure may seem to ease, but the labour and machinery costs of straw disposal are shifted onto the individual farmer, and there is a lack of corresponding compensation mechanisms. Regarding the thorny issue of straw disposal, many regions have begun exploring different solutions, transforming them into collaborative mechanisms guided by the government and involving market participation.

Yet, even so, a deeper problem remains: the green transition is far more than a matter of technology and subsidies; it is fundamentally about the structure of returns.

In the current agricultural product market system, a stable mechanism for green product premiums has not yet fully formed. The signal that consumers are willing to pay more for ‘green’ is often diluted layer by layer through the distribution chain, making it difficult to reach the producers accurately. Farmers bear the initial investment and risks directly, yet they cannot necessarily secure stable market returns. This keeps green agriculture in a state where it is ‘driven more by policy than by the market’ in practice.

Additionally, the generational structure of producers is changing. New agricultural operators, represented by the ‘new farmers’, are more aligned with the long-term value of ecological agriculture, more willing to accept and proactively learn new technologies, and find it easier to access information on policy subsidies. However, they also face practical problems such as high land transfer costs, financing difficulties, and unstable scales of operation. In contrast, the older generation of farmers is experienced but tends to be more cautious and conservative.

Therefore, the key to the green transition of agriculture may not lie in how advanced the concepts are, but in whether a mechanism of ‘shared risk and shared benefit’ can be established—one involving the government, producers, enterprises, and consumers. If costs manifest only at the production end, while benefits remain trapped in the distribution chain or within policy documents, the transition will inevitably be marked by rupture.

The ‘potato shells’ on the streets of Brussels remind us that any structural transformation must answer the same question:

How is the price of the ideal fairly distributed within the system?

◉ Van Gogh’s painting *The Sower*. Image source: Van Gogh Museum official website
References

【1】”The Potato Eaters”, Van Gogh Museum official website

https://www.vangoghmuseum.nl/en/collection/s0005V1962

【2】CGTN Live: Tens of thousands of farmers from across Europe gather in Brussels to protest

https://news.yunnan.cn/system/2025/12/19/033788429.shtml

【3】EU Potato Sector: Production and Trade in 2023

https://www.patafest.eu/news/eu-potato-sector-production-and-trade-2023

【4】Farmers harvest 2,000 tonnes of potatoes but throw away 400? Germany hit by “potato surplus crisis”; experts say it is not an isolated incident

https://www.sohu.com/a/957525497_116237?scm=10001.325_13-325_13.0.0.5_32&spm=smpc.channel_248.block3_308_NDdFbm_1_fd.3.1763878224993P78gDGE_324

【5】Mercosur and the EU officially sign free trade agreement

https://www.news.cn/20260118/f31218c5b1c244fb84b7938ac343bc59/c.html

【6】After 25 years of negotiations, “Tangluo-ism” catalyses EU-Mercosur free trade agreement

https://www.thepaper.cn/newsDetail_forward_32399943

【7】Polish farmers: EU support for Ukraine should not compromise Polish interests

http://news.cnhubei.com/content/2023-12/14/content_17104820.html

【8】EU removes tariff-free policy for Ukrainian agricultural products

https://m.gmw.cn/2025-06/06/content_1304052885.htm

【9】Refusing to absorb Ukrainian grain! Immediately after the Black Sea corridor disruption, five countries including Poland issue “self-preservation statements”

https://m.cls.cn/detail/1410106

【10】Brazil surpasses USA to become the world’s largest beef producer

https://swt.fujian.gov.cn/xxgk/jgzn/jgcs/mzdyzc/gbxx_553/202601/t20260119_7081982.htm

【11】Halting the expansion of pasture in the Brazilian Amazon

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2590332224005360#bib1

【12】Long-term relationships of beef and dairy cattle and greenhouse gas emissions: Application of co-integrated panel models for Latin America

https://agris.fao.org/search/en/records/6748c35c7625988a3720a48b

【13】What the European Green Deal means when exporting to the EU

https://www.kommerskollegium.se/en/import–export/firms-in-developing-countries-wanting-to-export-to-sweden/export-guide/living-up-to-requirements/the-european-green-deal/

【14】Italy secures protection for 58 food products in the Mercosur agreement, as the Geneva Act expands the scope of geographical indication protections

https://www.vinetur.com/cn/amp/2026010794546/italy-secures-protection-for-58-food-products-in-mercosur-deal-as-geneva-act-expands-gi-safeguards.html

【15】The European Green Deal

https://commission.europa.eu/strategy-and-policy/priorities-2019-2024/european-green-deal_en

【16】Pesticide reduction targets – Progress

https://food.ec.europa.eu/plants/pesticides/sustainable-use-pesticides/pesticide-reduction-targets-progress_en?prefLang=sv

【17】Trends in the use and risk of chemical pesticides and in the use of more hazardous pesticides

https://food.ec.europa.eu/plants/pesticides/sustainable-use-pesticides/pesticide-reduction-targets-progress/eu-trends_en?prefLang=sv

【18】European Green Deal: Commission prepares new initiatives to boost the organic farming sector

https://www.europeanlawmonitor.org/latest-eu-news/3854-european-green-deal-initiatives-re-organic-farming

【19】Closing the Gap: An analysis of the costs and incentives for regenerative agriculture in Europe

https://www.wbcsd.org/resources/closing-the-gap-an-analysis-of-the-costs-and-incentives-for-regenerative-agriculture-in-europe/

【20】The impact of the EU’s farm-to-fork strategy on member states’ economies: which countries will suffer the most?

https://link.springer.com/article/10.1186/s40100-025-00354-w

【21】Global Perspectives: EU | Journalist’s Observation: Agricultural policies are “out of touch” – European politics risk a “rightward shift” over farming

https://www.news.cn/world/20240411/ee5f8c36b27f4a0b8a3427cf63941f84/c.html

【22】How agricultural development can transition to a “green track”

https://caas.cn/xwzx/mtxw/0ad3c984ed494885994c7431969f437a.htm

【23】Reviewing four years of the Central No. 1 Document: How have ecological requirements changed?

https://sthjj.km.gov.cn/c/2023-02-21/4677027.shtml

【24】Bridging the “last mile” in the promotion of green agricultural technologies

https://xczx.fjsen.com/2025-05/19/content_31906595.htm

【25】Growing fruit: Why are fruit farmers reluctant to use organic fertilisers?

https://www.sohu.com/a/935678457_121124451?scm=10001.325_13-325_13.0.0.5_32&spm=smpc.channel_248.block3_308_NDdFbm_1_fd.2.1758072125253nxGHCiC_324

【26】Why are organic fertilisers and bio-pesticides so hard to popularise? Understanding the truth and solutions behind why green agriculture is “critically acclaimed but poorly adopted”

https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/kKBxxQmmXCpPV6sHj-sA-w

【27】The Sower – Van Gogh Museum Official Website

https://www.vangoghmuseum.nl/en/collection/s0029V1962

Foodthink Author

Mengyao | Saya

Silk Road agri-food explorer, nomadic experientialist

 

 

 

 

Editor: Xiao Dan