Elderly Sugarcane Farmers Face Market Slump: Unable to Sell, Yet Forced to Plant

Around 7 am, 65-year-old Zhen arrived at her sugarcane field. She wedged her scratched-screen phone between the stalks, connected to a neighbour’s Wi-Fi, and opened TikTok. She whispered to herself: “Tap the plus sign, swipe left, start livestream.” The camera pointed forward, framing two pieces of cardboard hanging from the cane: “Sugarcane 1-2 yuan per stalk, Shunhe Village, Lanhe Town, host is an elderly person.” This was a skill her son had taught her just a week ago. By livestreaming all day, without showing her face or saying a word, she could attract kind-hearted people to help clear her unsold stock.

◉ Zhen livestreams for 12 hours a day, hoping to attract more people to come and buy her sugarcane.

In late March, in Nansha, Guangzhou, the spring rain fell and stopped in fits and starts. The air grew increasingly humid, thick with the sweet scent of decaying sugarcane leaves. Vast stretches of black-skinned sugarcane stood like needles piercing the fields, a sight that stung the heart with pity. Fearing they would miss the spring ploughing, some farmers gave their crops to buyers for free, simply to have the fields cleared as quickly as possible. Every mu of land cleared for free meant a loss of over 6,000 yuan.

Most local sugarcane farmers are over 50. Many, like Zhen, are powerless against the market slump, left with no choice but to wait by their fields and roadsides with signs reading “One yuan per stalk – help our farmers”. News of the unsold sugarcane in Nansha attracted many tourists, who came to buy and harvest the crop. At 1–2 yuan a stalk, a farmer might earn around 3,000 yuan per mu, recovering nearly half their costs.

Many other farmers spent their days harvesting. Starting at 6 am and working until dark, they used their aging bodies to shoulder loads of over 50 kilograms, transporting 2,000 kilograms a day. For an income of just over 400 yuan, they would have to toil for over half a month just to cover the loss of a single mu.

And yet, on the lands where spring ploughing had already begun, patches of tender green sugarcane leaves were already sprouting. “What else could I possibly plant?” the elderly farmer asked, left with no other choice. “I’ll take another gamble this year.”

◉During this year’s spring planting, farmers in northern Nansha, Guangzhou, continued to primarily grow sugarcane.

I. Sugar Cane Farmers Driven to the Streets

Zhen has just over four *mu* of land. Like many local farmers, she divides her plots between sugarcane and bananas, rotating the crops. A year ago, when the market for ‘black skin’ sugarcane was strong, she sold the harvest from 2.2 *mu* at 99 yuan per *dan* (a *dan* being 100 *jin*, or 50kg). With each *mu* yielding 8 to 10 tonnes of black skin sugarcane, she earned nearly 10,000 yuan in a single season. During last year’s spring planting, she and her 67-year-old husband cleared away banana plants infected with yellow leaf disease and planted sugarcane in their place.

But this year, the market took everyone by surprise. After the final cold snaps of 2025, the black skin sugarcane in Nansha reached its peak quality, yet few farmers actually began harvesting. From New Year’s Day through to the Lunar New Year, she waited through both holidays, but no buyers came to inquire about prices. As for the current market rate? Zhen has no idea. Most sugarcane farmers are older, relying primarily on word-of-mouth from acquaintances for information. Lacking their own sales channels, they can do nothing but wait. Yet, even by March, much of the crop remained untouched.

Zhen usually loads vegetables from her fields onto a tricycle and takes them to nearby markets to sell from a makeshift stall. Her tricycle is dilapidated, its seat worn away for the most part. From December last year, she began harvesting the thinner, smaller stalks of sugarcane, transporting them to various spots across Nansha and Shunde to sell on the street. Her skin is weathered and dark; she wears loose trousers and walks with a heavy, rolling gait, her legs wide apart. When confronted by the *chengguan* (urban management officers), she doesn’t dare argue. Sometimes her scales and sugarcane are confiscated; she doesn’t try to reclaim them for fear of being fined. Sugarcane can be sold by the stalk, so she doesn’t always need a scale. On a good day, she can earn over a hundred yuan. But with a single *mu* producing over 2,500 stalks, and no wholesalers buying, no amount of street vending will ever clear her crop.

◉ Unsold sugarcane; no orders in sight.
On 18 February this year, the second day of the Lunar New Year, she asked her nephew-in-law, who had come to visit for the holiday, to contact a “sugarcane middleman” to come and collect the crop. Traders from outside the area usually commission local agents to help source sugarcane and bananas; people refer to these two types of agents as “sugarcane middlemen” and “banana middlemen“, or collectively as “agents”. The sugarcane middleman took a glance at the field and offered 20 yuan per dan—just a fifth of last year’s price. Sister Zhen hoped for something higher, but he shook his head: “That’s just the way the market is now.”

Sister Zhen has a son and a daughter; her son and daughter-in-law live in Tanzhou, Zhongshan, where they work and raise their children. Her daughter suffers from mental illness and is unemployed. At 20 yuan per dan, not only would the elderly woman’s year of toil be for nothing, but she would also face a loss of over ten thousand yuan. Life is a struggle for her; the clothes she wears were gifts from friends, and her shoes were bought from Pinduoduo for 8 yuan a pair—she bought two. The ones she is wearing already have holes, with both big toes poking through. The other pair, worn for six months, has had the heels completely worn away, yet she still hasn’t thrown them out. If she accepted this price, relying on a monthly pension of only six or seven hundred yuan, they would not even be able to clear the debts from last year’s pesticides and fertilisers. She turned down the only sugarcane middleman who had made an offer this year.

II. Not Even a Chance to be Quoted

“The buyers are few and far between this year, and those who do come are late.” Chen Shun, from Da’ao Village in Lanhe Town, Nansha District, Guangzhou, planted 17 mu of black-skin sugarcane last year, over ten mu of which were on rented land. The first two mu, planted in December the year before last, were the finest. In previous years, many buyers would call in advance to arrange purchases, but this year there were very few, and the prices offered were low.

Chen Shun hoped to wait until the sugarcane grew a bit more to fetch a higher price. By New Year’s Day, however, he began to worry. He contacted a sugarcane broker he knew and eventually sold those two mu at 70 yuan per dan. The year before, this variety of black-skin sugarcane could fetch over a hundred yuan per dan. Half a month later, another mu was sold at 60 yuan per dan. During the Spring Festival, seven mu were sold sequentially at 40 yuan per dan; once the land rent of 1,500 yuan per mu and labour costs were factored in, this price barely allowed him to break even.

After last year’s Spring Festival, the price of black-skin sugarcane rose significantly. This year, however, the prices offered by brokers plummeted from 40 yuan per dan to just 5 yuan. Those of slightly lower quality were ignored, even when offered for free. Chen Shun’s final seven mu of sugarcane remained unsold as late as March.

◉ Since March this year, many tourists have been visiting Nansha, Guangzhou, and other areas daily to buy sugarcane in support of local farmers.

“There isn’t even a chance to sell the sugarcane in bulk,” explained a village official from Yansha Village in Lanhe Town. In late March, farmers in the village reported a total of over 500 mu of unsold sugarcane, more than 400 mu of which was the black-skin variety. Chen Jiao, a villager in her sixties, has planted over ten mu of black-skin sugarcane. Her husband passed away years ago, and her children help in the fields on weekends if they aren’t working overtime. Between land rent and hired labour during the peak season, costs exceed 7,000 yuan per mu. When market conditions were good last year, a year of hard work could yield 100,000 yuan in profit. But this season, her sugarcane has been entirely ignored. “Not a single person has even come to ask the price.”

In Nansha, every plot of sugarcane is enclosed in black screens. Usually after the sixth lunar month, as the cane grows taller and the sun becomes more intense, the stalks must be shaded to prevent them from turning red. High-quality black-skin sugarcane has a deep, glossy black peel. Farmers also write their phone numbers on the screens; after the Mid-Autumn Festival, if a broker or a business owner is interested, they call to make arrangements, and some even pre-order. Once a plot is reserved, the farmer writes “Sold” on the screen.

◉ This year, much of the sugarcane was pre-ordered, yet the harvest never came.

Chen Jiao also posted her number early, but no one has contacted her to buy. The growth cycle for fruit sugarcane in Nansha is about a year; for local farmers, “spring planting” actually begins the previous winter. To ensure the next crop of black-skin sugarcane matures by the end of the year, March is the deadline. To avoid delaying the spring planting, Chen Jiao gave away the sugarcane planted earliest—which was nearing the end of its season—to brokers at rock-bottom prices or even for free, urging them to harvest it quickly. “Any later, and I won’t be able to plant.”

There is a local proverb: “Sugarcane at Qingming is more toxic than a snake”. As the Qingming Festival approaches and temperature and humidity rise, improperly stored sugarcane can easily mould and turn red, producing a neurotoxin known as 3-nitropropionic acid.

“The quality of black-skin sugarcane declines once it’s past its season,” the village official said. While yellow-skin sugarcane can be sold year-round, it is the black-skin variety that must be sold urgently. Consequently, government bodies, schools, hospitals, and compassionate individuals have joined efforts to support the farmers. However, according to feedback from village officials, most of this help is merely a drop in the ocean, far less effective than commercial procurement: a single broker’s trailer can carry 35 tonnes of sugarcane from four mu of land, whereas a thousand tourists might not even clear a single mu. In response, the local government introduced a sugarcane collection subsidy, offering brokers or other farmers a reward of several hundred yuan for every mu of sugarcane harvested, available until 5 April.

◉ As the Qingming Festival approached, the black-skin sugarcane remaining in the fields began to turn green.

To clear the land as quickly as possible, Chen Shun urged people to harvest five mu of his plot before mid-March, selling the crop for a mere 1,000 yuan per mu. “If I have to clear the field myself in the end, I’ll just end up spending it all on labour costs.” On the final two mu, his wife, Aunt Huang, kept watch by the field every day, calling out to tourists to buy some; the price started at 2 yuan a stalk and has now dropped to 1 yuan.

Aunt Huang had previously worked at a frozen meat processing plant. In 2025, coinciding with her 50th birthday, came a redundancy letter from the factory. “Once the age on your ID reaches 50, the factory doesn’t want you anymore.” She lost her income just as her youngest daughter entered senior high school and was placed in a “key class”. Anxiety drove her to become a sugarcane farmer.

After a year of dealing with the cane and the soil, she remarked: “Every stage of growing sugarcane is exhausting.” Beyond mulching, hilling, and frequent fertilising and spraying, growing fruit sugarcane also requires building and raising trellises.

If industrial sugar cane grows crooked, it doesn’t affect the sugar extraction. But for fruit sugarcane, which is eaten raw, only stalks that grow straight and with a uniform thickness can fetch a decent price. Therefore, around the fifth month of the lunar calendar, as typhoons become more frequent and the cane reaches a metre in height, farmers must erect bamboo frames in the fields.

Bamboo poles as thick as a bowl are driven half a metre into the ground, then reinforced with several diagonal poles, with thinner bamboo connected horizontally across the top. Finally, ropes are tied. Two thick ropes frame a row of sugarcane along the field ridges, with thinner ropes dividing the space into small squares. Each square houses two stalks of cane, guiding them to grow tall and straight to prevent them from being blown over by the wind. Thereafter, every time the cane grows slightly taller, the bottom five leaves must be stripped away, and the top bamboo frame and rope net must be raised. Black-skin sugarcane can grow up to four metres high, meaning the net needs to be raised about six times.

◉ In Nansha, cultivating fruit sugarcane requires the installation of sheds and netting; over the course of a year, these nets must be raised at least six times.
In the past, Chen Shun remained in the village, balancing his work as a construction worker with the management of his sugarcane fields, hiring day labourers for every stage of the process. In recent years, the demand for rural house building has dwindled, and with sugarcane sales stagnating this year, anxiety has driven him to become a sugarcane harvester.

III. The harvesters are also elderly

The sugarcane cutters in the village are sugarcane farmers themselves. Many villages still have dozens of cutters, with an average age of over 50. They are a group of farmers driven by the pressures of survival, unable to afford a moment’s rest. With sugarcane sales stagnating, they too have suffered heavy losses; yet the cane must still be harvested. In this harvest season, they must endure grueling labour to earn back the investment costs for the next crop and provide for their families.

In previous years, the cutters began taking jobs after the Mid-Autumn Festival. The work starts before 6 am every morning, and most cutters must rise at four or five. Each team has a foreman responsible for coordinating the location, quantity, and price with the sugarcane middleman. These middlemen establish long-term partnerships with the cutters through these foremen.

A team typically consists of a dozen or so people, with a clear division of labour. The vanguard first takes one ridge each, using shovels to sever the roots and pry the sugarcane from the soil before trimming away the root hairs. The shovels used for digging are custom-made, roughly one metre long with a narrow, flat, and sharp blade. Once dug out, the sugarcane is usually propped shallowly back into the ground; since the protective netting has not yet been removed, the tops of the canes lean against ropes and do not fall.

◉ The vanguard cutters each take one ridge, using shovels to sever the roots and pry the sugarcane from the soil.

Once the sugarcane is dug out, the team operates like an assembly line. One group pulls out the rootless canes and strips the leaves from the top sides. Another group takes iron stools, turns them upside down, and stacks the canes one by one into the grooves formed by the stool legs. They tie them into bundles of 12 to 14 stalks, each weighing over 100 jin. To ensure stability, each bundle is tied in four places, and finally, half of the leaves at the tail end are cut off. This “with-tail” style of sugarcane is more durable and can withstand long-distance transport.

Sugarcane leaves are sharp; farmers who dress lightly in the heat often end up with rows of scratches on their hands and necks. These cuts are shallow and do not bleed, but they swell and redden. When exposed to sunlight, grit, soil, and sweat, they sting with a burning pain.

◉ On 22 March, 14 sugarcane cutters from Duntang Village arrived at Da’ao Village to harvest; their task for the day was approximately 34 tonnes.

The most strenuous part is carrying the bundles onto the lorry. A single bundle is too heavy for one person; two people must lift it from either side while a third tilts their head and hoists the middle onto their shoulder. The sugarcane is rigid and digs painfully into the shoulder, so farmers usually use a pad—sometimes a tied piece of cloth, a folded woven sack, or a torn piece of cardboard.

The fields are pitted and uneven, requiring great care when walking. Plank bridges are used to get from the fields to the road base, and from the road to the lorry bed. Crossing the bridge is the most exhausting part; the long canes press down on the elderly, their expressions growing grave under the weight.

On 24 March, in Shajiao Village, Lanhue Town, a middleman hired 17 cutters to harvest about 4 mu of land. A buyer from Anhui purchased the sugarcane from these 4 mu at a price of 15 yuan per dan; the buyer also paid the fees for the middleman and the cutters—1.1 yuan per dan for the middleman and 11 yuan per dan for the cutters. Uncle Wang, 47 this year, is the youngest in the team. Their average age is over 55, with the oldest being 72. Uncle Wang says that almost every year, a cutter collapses in the fields. The excessively long hours, the sheer intensity of the labour, and the scorching heat can all prove fatal.

◉ On 24 March, two elderly sugarcane cutters in Shajiao Village carry a bundle of over 100 jin together.

Rainy days are the most dangerous. If work has already begun and it starts to rain, the middleman will not agree to stop, as they must meet delivery deadlines. The fields become muddy and the roads slippery, requiring extra caution when walking across wet plank bridges.

A few years ago, Uncle Wang’s elder brother fell from a plank bridge while carrying sugarcane onto a lorry. Three toes on his right foot were shattered in a comminuted fracture. The medical fees cost 40,000 yuan, and he can no longer perform heavy labour. It was only through Uncle Wang’s efforts in arguing with the middleman that he received 20,000 yuan in compensation. With permanent steel pins in his body, his brother once asked Uncle Wang with concern: “Does this mean I’ll never be able to experience flying on a plane again?”

◉ Rainy days are the most dangerous; the fields are muddy and the roads slippery, and one must be exceptionally careful when walking on wet plank bridges.
◉ Crossing the bridge is the most strenuous part; the long stalks of sugarcane weigh heavily on them, their expressions etched with solemnity.

The cutters sort out their own lunch, usually sharing a meal at a street food stall and splitting the cost. The women sit together drinking tea, while the men drink Jiujiang Shuangzheng—a fragrant rice liquor of less than 30% alcohol. After a few glasses, their brows unfurl, and their fatigue seems to vanish.

Finishing times depend on the daily quota. At the earliest, they wrap up before dark; at the latest, it could be 8 pm or even later. On the day they met Uncle Wang, the quota was 35 tonnes, and they finished by 6 pm. For a day’s work, the crew coordinator earned 770 yuan, while each cutter took home 450 yuan. Aside from selling the sugarcane itself, this is their most vital source of income for the year.

◉ 24 March: a lorry fully loaded with sugarcane, ready for dispatch to Anhui.

IV. Thirty Years of Monoculture Inertia

Income from cutting sugarcane peaks during the Spring Festival. Usually, market demand is high during this period, meaning not only are prices higher, but the volume of harvesting is also greater; cutters can earn more than three times their usual daily rate. However, this Spring Festival, many cutters found themselves without any work.

An official from Shangni Village noted that while the village’s cutters are typically swamped during the festival, most are now sitting idle at home. There isn’t much sugarcane left in the village, and many pre-ordered crops remain unharvested. Some buyers have requested price cuts, and some are even willing to pay breach-of-contract penalties rather than harvest the cane.

The primary reason for this year’s slump in fresh-eating sugarcane is overcapacity. Last year, there was significant expansion and increased production in Yunnan, Guangxi, Fujian, and parts of Guangdong, including Qingyuan, Zengcheng, and Shaoguan. Several village officials mentioned that fruit sugarcane from regions like Yunnan is of higher quality, and that the market currently favours yellow-skinned cane, whereas Nansha primarily grows the black-skinned variety. In this fierce competition, Nansha’s fruit sugarcane has been outcompeted.

Zhen Jie recalls that in the 40 years since she married into the village, she only spent about ten years growing rice; since then, she has grown exclusively black-skinned sugarcane and bananas. The elderly couple has just over 4 mu of land, and the returns from rice and vegetables are far lower than those from bananas and cane.

“When the market is good, a mu of bananas or sugarcane can bring in a profit of over ten thousand yuan a year,” explained an official from Lv Village in Lanhe Town. With a population of over 2,000 and just 1,500 mu of arable land, the average person has less than one mu. Currently, the land is mostly managed by those aged 50 and over; among those already receiving pensions, most get only six or seven hundred yuan a month. Financial pressures force farmers to pin their hopes for increased income on their limited land; consequently, rice is the first crop to be ruled out.

◉ In Shunhe Village, where Zhen Jie lives, only a tiny fraction of the fields are still used for growing rice.
A village official from Dajian Village explained that under current grain subsidy policies, large-scale grain growers (those planting more than 15 mu of rice) receive a subsidy of no more than 2,000 yuan per crop cycle (locally referred to as a *zao*). With two crops per year, the profit per mu does not exceed 2,000 yuan.

Continuous cropping leads to soil degradation and an increase in pests and diseases. The long-term cultivation of sugarcane and bananas has resulted in a decline in both quality and yield. In recent years, many of the bananas grown by local farmers suffered reduced yields or total crop failure due to Yellow Leaf Disease. “The quality of sugarcane isn’t great now either,” says one farmer. “The internodes are too short and the thickness is uneven; it can’t compete with the new plantations in places like Yunnan and Fujian.”

Uncle Wang has been growing sugarcane in Shajiao Village for nearly 20 years. He has observed that ten years ago, applying 4 to 5 bags of fertiliser (100 jin per bag) per mu was enough to last until harvest; now, at least 10 bags are required. However, the overuse of chemical fertilisers further degrades the soil: “If you apply too much, the sugarcane simply stops growing.”

In recent years, the price of a bag of fertiliser has risen to over 300 yuan, meaning the cost of fertiliser alone exceeds 3,000 yuan per mu. To safeguard quality and yield, sugarcane farmers must continuously use the highest-grade fertilisers and pesticides. He estimates that when land rent, bamboo supports, and labour are included, the cost per mu exceeds 8,000 yuan. Even if the land is owned and no outside labour is hired, the cost is at least 6,000 yuan.

V. No Choice but Sugarcane

In the past two years, the local government has implemented a “non-grain” rectification programme. To some extent, this has driven an increase in the area planted with sugarcane, while reducing the resilience of growers in the face of market fluctuations.

Nansha has approximately 90 square kilometres of arable land, nearly two-thirds of which is concentrated in the northern towns of Lanhe, Dongyong, and Dagang. These areas are the primary growing regions for sugarcane and bananas in Nansha. The *Nansha District Arable Land Protection Special Plan (2021-2035)* notes that returns from grain crops are significantly lower than those from cash crops; consequently, farmers lack the incentive to grow grain, meaning the issue of “non-grainization” remains severe.

A cadre from Yansha Village explained that policy requires arable land to be used for grains or non-grain crops such as cotton, oil, sugar, and vegetables. Sugarcane is classified as a sugar crop, whereas planting fruits with higher economic value—such as bananas, papayas, guavas, and citrus—is considered “non-grain” and is not permitted under current policy.

In recent years, Nansha has intensified its efforts to rectify the “non-grain” use of arable land. A public report from late December 2022 showed that in less than two months, Lanhe Town completed 86 rectification cases covering 237.41 mu, with the total completion rate for “non-agricultural” and “non-grain” rectification exceeding 30%. Once banana and other crops were cleared, sugarcane was the only option left for local farmers.

◉ While the government is concerned with protecting arable land and food security, farmers are more concerned with their own livelihoods.

“Since the removal of bananas, the area planted with sugarcane has grown year by year,” revealed the Yansha Village cadre. By 2025, the village’s sugarcane planting area exceeded 3,400 mu. Public reports indicate that in Lanhe Town, the area for fruit-grade sugarcane was only 13,800 mu in 2022, rising to 17,000 mu by 2025. With the burden of “food security” placed upon elderly farmers, they chose to reject the lowest-profit option—rice—and instead selected sugarcane from the government’s permitted “whitelist”.

Ensuring food security cannot be the sole responsibility of the farmers. A cadre from Lücun Village recalled that the “non-grain” rectification in various towns and villages met with opposition from most residents. The government had encouraged farmers to plant other crops from the “whitelist”, such as vegetables. However, vegetable farming is less profitable and requires farmers to spend all their time in the fields.

Farmers plant bananas and sugarcane not only out of a planting habit spanning nearly 30 years, but because it allows them more leisure time during the off-season to take on odd jobs. After harvesting sugarcane, Uncle Wang travels to other provinces to help other farmers build shelters; Chen Shun has leased out four mu of his land and does not intend to farm it, returning to construction sites after the spring ploughing; Sister Zhen and her husband, who are physically frail, pick vegetables to sell at street stalls.

Even with this year’s lack of market demand, many choose to keep planting; they rely on sugarcane to cover their losses and sustain their livelihoods.

As March draws to a close, livestreaming has indeed brought Sister Zhen a fair amount of business. Some customers have travelled from Shunde to harvest over 100 stalks. While her husband helps with the harvesting, customers usually only want the middle stems; he cuts off the top 30 centimetres—the part with leaves—to use for breeding the next season’s crop.

They are continuing to plant sugarcane this year. She is unwilling to use virus-free seedlings, as these represent another significant expense—especially since she has had to buy fertiliser on credit this year.

Foodthink Author

Wa Mao

A “spiritual” Southwesterner who knows to seek cover when it rains. A bit abstract, as they are not good with words. Full of curiosity about society, striving to record the fringes and corners of the era.

 

 

 

 

All interviewees are pseudonyms

Editor: Xiao Dan