After 14 Years Back Home, Finally Farming

I. Almost Left

After years back in my hometown, I once seriously considered leaving this village altogether. Starting a few years ago, all the fields in the village were leased to larger farms. In our Jiangnan village, known as the “Chrysanthemum Village,” we are the only family still growing chrysanthemums and rice. Silkworm rearing is a little more common; besides us, only a scattered few other households keep it up.

My father asked hesitantly: should we lease out our land too?

He probably felt a touch of guilt for standing in the way of the larger farms.

 

◉ Click the image to read about the author’s experience cultivating the last remaining plot of Hangbaiju chrysanthemum in the village.

Since leaving Beijing to return home in 2011, we have been living in our home village ever since. Along the way, we have navigated our fair share of changes.

Initially, the motivation was straightforward: I simply wanted to return to my village and set up a small ecological farm. I pictured it nestled around our home, verdant and thriving. Even then, I knew ecological farming was hardly lucrative (though it was said to be enough to sustain a family), but simply living in such surroundings felt like reward enough in itself (which is precisely why I admired Tang Liang). Of course, for a penniless 25-year-old second-generation farmer with virtually no agricultural or social experience, defeat was a foregone conclusion—I couldn’t even manage to rent a plot in my own village.

◉ Tang Liang (back row, far left), a young man who returned to Jintang in Sichuan, has put down roots with his family on the land. His path has drawn admiration from many peers who returned home only to face hardship, while sparking new possibilities for what life could be among a wider generation of young people. Click the image to read Tang Liang’s story. Photograph: Tang Wei
With my dream of a farm shattered, I first went to Huzhou, not far from home, where Old Shen cultivated ecological rice. I arrived in early spring, when the fields lay empty. The original workers had gone, leaving only an octogenarian to keep watch. Old Shen had nearly exhausted his funds, so he was searching for both labour and capital. A villager, eager to hike the land rent, constantly came to pick quarrels. Early spring in Jiangnan is piercingly damp and cold, particularly in the mountains. Soon enough, chilblains appeared on all ten of my fingers. At night, I had to soak my feet for ages before I dared to get into bed. In the dead of night, Old Shen’s newborn youngest son would often cry out. His farm was on shaky ground too. A few months later, I left.

II. Finding a Village

By the time I picked up the dream of returning home again, a year had already passed. This time, it was not about opening a farm, but reverting to Jiangnan’s silkworm and mulberry tradition, taking up the craft of making silk floss quilts together with family. So for many years, while most young returnees were tilling the land, we were actually making quilts. After crafting silk quilts for a few years, we went on to restore the ecological cultivation and traditional processing of one acre of Hangzhou white chrysanthemum within the village.

During this period, as a “veteran” young returnee, I witnessed too many failed ventures of ecological farms. Coupled with the fact that we never viewed returning home as starting a business, nor did we have ambitions to scale up, we never went looking to rent land. We stuck to our own small plot (literally speaking).

When people introduced “Mei and Fish Farm”, I felt rather embarrassed given its diminutive size; the name felt somewhat misleading. The year before last, we simply changed the company’s suffix from “Family Farm” to “Silkworm and Mulberry Culture”.

◉ In this 2023 podcast episode, Yu Jiangang recounts in detail his experiences of returning to the countryside to make silk quilts and cultivate Hangbaiju chrysanthemum. Click here to listen to the podcast.

We truly began looking at other villages. We focused on the northwest outskirts of the county town, as it would be closer to our current home and make it easier to get the children to and from school. The idea was to leave our own village without stepping outside the sericulture region. We wanted to find a place with a similar cultural fabric so we could continue with our work.

Truth be told, after all these years in our own village, the constant drain of navigating a close-knit community—dealing with parents and relatives alike—has been utterly exhausting. It seemed better to put some physical distance between us and it all. Out of sight, out of mind.

A calligraphy teacher recommended a village near Wuzhen, mentioning a house for rent right next to a large mulberry grove that would be perfect for us. Alas, we were a step too late; by the time we visited, it had already been leased out as a storage warehouse.

Then there was another village, planned some time ago specifically to attract ‘city-dwellers’ to set up enterprises. Most of the original villagers had already relocated, and the company tasked with managing the village had ground to a near standstill after a few years of operation.

We also visited a village where a friend runs a teahouse. The locals there seemed preoccupied, waiting with bated breath for a major road expansion to the west that would finally bring the long-awaited windfall of demolition compensation.

My wife, Yuhui, found a house online that sat a fair way from the main road. A woodland stretched out in front of it. On closer inspection, the undergrowth was actually a patch of neglected mulberry trees. It turned out the landlord had planted ornamental saplings after giving up on sericulture. She mentioned that if we did decide to raise silkworms, she would lend us her old reeling trays. However, the house was currently let to a group of construction workers, so we’d have to wait until the end of the year.

The very thought of the monumental effort required to clean, renovate and bring order to that three-storey house—and the mulberry grove to match—was too much. In the end, Yuhui politely declined the landlord’s offer.

After that, we made several sporadic trips back to the ‘city-dwellers’ entrepreneurship village to see if anything suitable had come up.

An underperforming rural guesthouse came up for sale, and Yuhui arranged a viewing. I asked her, “Are you thinking of running a guesthouse?” She replied, “No. It wouldn’t need any major renovation, so we could simply convert it into a workshop for making silk quilts.”

We asked the operating company whether they had any agricultural land available. They did have a plot, but the rent was 3,000 yuan per mu a year. “Why so pricey?” I asked. “That piece is zoned for recreational facilities and experiential tourism,” they explained. “I have no interest in amusements,” I said. “I just want to farm.” “Then we have nothing left,” they replied. “All the proper agricultural land has been leased out to the company for tobacco cultivation.”

I can’t recall whether that was our final village visit. Regardless, the urge to leave only grew stronger.

◉ In a lengthy essay about his and his wife Mei Yuhui’s journey back to the countryside to start their enterprise, Yu Jiangang also reflects on the various models of rural regeneration he has observed around him. Click the image to read more.

III. The Familiar Stranger

It was not until autumn 2024 that this season’s Osmanthus silkworms in the village suddenly succumbed to poisoning. Villagers immediately blamed the large-scale contractors who were using drones to spray pesticides on their leased rice fields. I simply could not bear to see the handful of remaining silkworm-keeping households give up on what is a centuries-old village tradition. After several rounds of negotiation with the contractors and the village head, we finally decided to take over 14 mu of rice paddies adjacent to the mulberry plots and switch to ecological farming.

The problem was that I had little experience growing rice, let alone ecological farming.

Rice truly was a familiar stranger.

It brought back memories of Year Three, when my mother dragged me out to the fields to transplant seedlings, sternly declaring, “You’re a farmer; if you can’t even work the land, who will look after you later on?” Ironically, my mother never expected that farming would not be what kept us fed; it would be factory work taken on by both her and my father. Coupled with years of continuous education thereafter, I never had the chance to properly master the technique of rice transplanting.

◉Although my mother never approved of it, she consistently supported my dream of returning home through her own labour. Click the image to read the author’s piece on her mother.

My last stint farming before leaving home took place over the summer break after my university entrance exams. I was transplanting rice seedlings in the gathering dusk, all while my class teacher kept ringing to ask about my grades.

After that day of transplanting, I headed to Jilin for university, then moved to Beijing for work, and never set foot in a paddy again. After resigning in 2011, I worked in rural community outreach in Longzhou, Guangxi. I did collaborate with locals on a rice-and-duck farming project: we’d head to the paddies to monitor invasive golden apple snails, distribute ducklings to villagers, and occasionally check whether anyone was secretly using farm chemicals. But I never actually worked the fields myself.

◉Herding cattle with the village’s veteran secretary during my time in Longzhou, Guangxi. Click the image to read about the author’s return to Longzhou after more than a decade away.
During the few months I spent at Lao Shen’s Ecological Farm, it happened to be the winter slack season. The rice paddies lay fallow and empty, so I didn’t go down into the fields. The only time I did was after I’d already returned to Shanghai for work. Unwilling to let go, I went back to the village every weekend to farm. I planted one mu of ecological rice. It later succumbed to sheath blight, and the harvest was meagre.

IV. The World of Agricultural Inputs

Actually planning to cultivate 15 mu of ecological rice presents quite a few challenges. Just navigating the array of agricultural inputs is enough to make one’s head spin!

Compared to over a decade ago, the market now offers a vast array of commercial organic fertilisers. Applying granular organic fertiliser via drone significantly boosts efficiency compared to traditional methods.

A local organic fertiliser manufacturer heavily promotes a “organic slow-release fertiliser”. The product description claims it “uses agricultural waste such as straw, extracting natural macromolecular organic compounds like lignin, cellulose, alginic acid, and chitin for modification and activation”. However, on closer inspection, its organic matter content is only 15% (the standard requires over 30%). Checking the referenced standard, GB 15063-2020, it turns out to be a compound fertiliser!

Even among qualified organic fertilisers, there are numerous types. By form: powder, granules, and tonne bags; by standard: general organic fertiliser (NY/T 525-2021) and bio-organic fertiliser (NY 884-2012); prices can vary tenfold—from 400–500 yuan per tonne on the cheap end to 4,000–5,000 yuan per tonne at the high end. The one constant: you cannot find out where the materials actually come from, and even the ingredient lists are vaguely stated.

To qualify for government subsidies, you must purchase fertilisers from manufacturers on the government’s approved list.

After careful deliberation, we ultimately chose the “old-fashioned” rapeseed cake. The ingredients are transparent, it’s sourced locally, and it saves long-distance transport. Of course, this means it’s difficult to spread mechanically and ineligible for subsidies.

The most exasperating issue turned out to be the seedling trays. We entrusted an organic farm in Suzhou with raising the seedlings. It wasn’t until the day before transplanting that we discovered Suzhou uses 9-inch trays, whereas our local standard is 7 inches. The size mismatch meant the rice transplanter couldn’t be used!

◉After careful comparison, we abandoned all commercial fertilisers and opted for traditional rapeseed cake, which can only be applied by hand.

V. Weed and Pest Control Strategy

From February at the start of the year to mid-June, I was constantly drafting and revising the planting plan. I travelled to several places including Zhenjiang, Wuzhong, Yichang, Ningbo, and Kunshan, seeking practical farming advice from rice experts, young people who had returned home, and ecological agriculture instructors. I first established a basic approach to weed control:

1 Before planting, flood the paddies to create ideal conditions of moisture and warmth for weeds. Let a couple of flushes grow, then plough them under before sowing;
2 Use transplanted seedlings; direct seeding is out;
3 The field must be levelled meticulously so that after transplanting and flooding, weeds struggle to take hold.
I also set out the pest management strategy:
1 Space the seedlings further apart to improve air circulation;
2 Establish flower strips along the field edges to attract natural predators;
3 Expect more pests in the first year; things will improve once spiders establish themselves in the second year;
4 If all else fails, rely on microbial agents or biological pesticides.
However, I forgot that the very nature of agriculture lies in its uncertainty… The first weed control step—allowing weeds to grow before transplanting—works best if the field is left to lie fallow in the second half of the year.

The large-scale grain grower who previously farmed my plot had planted wheat. Harvest usually took place around 20 May. That left only a month until transplanting in mid-to-late June—insufficient time for weeds to grow.

As if fate knew I was planning to farm, wheat harvest was pushed back by a full week compared to previous years! Once the wheat was cleared, I hurriedly contacted a tractor driver I knew to rotary-till the field. It turned out he was already busy harvesting wheat and tilling for a 2,000-mu operation. Apparently, every tractor driver in the town was tied up working for large-scale farms!

After making countless calls, the field was finally tilled by 31 May, the Dragon Boat Festival!

◉The prolonged heat of summer 2025 made this year’s rice farming journey even more arduous. On that day, temperatures peaked at 38°C, meaning fieldwork had to begin before sunrise.
◉ The sun goes down, and we don’t pack up until it’s completely dark.

VI. Hand-weeding the Paddies

Tractors are indispensable, whether you practise organic or conventional farming. Modern machines can easily cost several hundred thousand yuan, leaving smallholders and farms like ours dependent on agricultural machinery cooperatives. It was only after starting to farm that I realised how deeply the operation of this machinery has been shaped by large-scale conventional agriculture. Nowhere is this more apparent than in field levelling.

Traditional Chinese agriculture places immense emphasis on levelling the land. In my father’s words, the surface should be “like a mirror”. Only a perfectly level paddy allows for weed control through flooding, giving the rice a proper head start.

Yet large-scale conventional rice cultivation, which relies heavily on herbicides, no longer places much value on careful levelling. Tractor operators tend to prioritise speed, meaning the skill and quality of the levelling leave much to be desired.

The consequence of this eroding expertise is that we ended up bending over to weed the fields by hand four times in total, and five times in certain plots. In farming terminology, the character ‘耘’ (yún) refers precisely to pulling out weeds and trampling them back into the soil.

◉Weeding the fields in this manner, we went over the 15 mu of land four or five times.
◉A comparison between a weeded plot and one that has not been treated.

As a farmer who actually cares about his yield, I cannot and will not lightly utter some perfunctory platitude about ‘coexisting with weeds’.

For much of the time I spent bent double under 38°C heat, I utterly despised them. It wasn’t until a certain moment—perhaps the day I weeded myself into absolute despair—that I suddenly felt compelled to look up what they were actually called. That simple act genuinely shifted my perspective on them.

Every weed has a name: red leea, primrose-willow, water ammannia, round-leaf knotgrass, nutgrass, and dall-wheat. Furthermore, these weeds double as traditional Chinese medicines. Take primrose-willow, for example: it is prized for clearing heat and toxins, promoting diuresis, resolving blood stasis, and staunching bleeding. It can be used to treat conditions ranging from dysentery, infectious hepatitis, and nephritic oedema to cystitis, carbuncles, and snake or insect bites.

I intend to study these paddy weeds in much greater detail going forward.

◉ Clockwise from the top left: primrose-willow, a common paddy weed; barnyard grass; pulled weeds bundled together; and water ammannia, another paddy weed.

VII. Insects and Silkworms Intertwined

The most dramatic developments of all played out in the insect world. As the weeding progressed, rice leaf folders and second-generation rice stem borers emerged first; they were soon followed by sheath blight and brown planthoppers, while the leaf folders and stem borers continued to cycle through successive generations.

What was I to do?

I began by hanging blue and yellow sticky traps, but the results were decidedly average.

◉ I initially placed blue and yellow sticky traps in the field, but they made little difference.

I noticed an ecological farming colleague had eventually turned to biological microbial agents, which are permitted in organic farming. I decided to keep some on hand, ready to use if things got desperate (first-year spider populations are usually insufficient).

But while reading through the specifications, I was startled to discover that the agent specifically targets Lepidoptera—silkworms are Lepidoptera!

On reflection, that makes perfect sense. I had even kept two diamondback moth and Chinese rice stem borer larvae just to observe their habits. Once they pupated and emerged, they transformed into moths with vivid, lifelike eyes. Aren’t wild moths and silkworm moths essentially the same kind of creature?

◉ The moths in the field bear a strong resemblance to silkworm moths, yet human opinions of them are sharply divided.

And so, we decided to forgo the biological agents altogether—going entirely chemical-free.

Even under this approach, the rice paddies thrived, carrying us through to a successful harvest at the Start of Winter.

I would say the foundation of our success can be distilled into three field practices, captured in six characters: patrolling, sun-drying, and cultivating.

◉ Washing my feet in the stream after each day’s field patrol.

Checking the paddies means ensuring you take a circuit around the fields before sunrise each morning. The primary focus is on the water levels. Loaches, crayfish, and swamp eels in the paddies tend to burrow at night. Once they breach the bunds, the water drains away completely, and as soon as the sun comes up, weed seeds will begin to germinate. Checking the paddies is simply about spotting these leaks promptly, patching them up, and reflooding the fields.

Sun-drying the paddies usually takes place in early August, just before the rice enters the jointing stage. The opposite of topping up water, this process involves completely draining the fields and leaving them to bake under the sun until cracks form. This encourages the rice root systems to delve deeper, making them less prone to lodging and resulting in healthier plants.

Field hoeing differs from simple weeding in what happens to the removed growth. Basic weeding just clears the weeds away, whereas field hoeing requires trampling them back into the mud. In this way, the weeds effectively become fertiliser for the rice crop, achieving two aims with a single effort.

◉ Sun-drying the paddies.

VIII. The Dream of Returning Home Realised

Looking back on this year of farming: seedlings raised on 10 May, transplanted on 20 June. We worked through four rounds of manual weeding, contending with weeds, insects, typhoons, heatwaves, fungal issues, and drought. By 5 November, we finally brought in the harvest, completing the rice’s nearly 180-day life cycle. Though we poured considerable labour into it, much of the work was left to nature alone—the sun, the rain, the warm breezes, the soil, the birds and beasts. She it is that brews the bounty of the harvest, and it’s impossible not to marvel at nature’s power. The main crop yielded roughly 1000 jin (500 kg) of fresh paddy per mu. The grains came out soft, glutinous and sweet. I’m quite pleased with the result and rather proud of what we’ve achieved.

◉ A bumper harvest in sight!
◉ Enjoying rice cooked from the crop we grew ourselves.

Fourteen years after returning home, I once stood on the verge of leaving again. In the end, not only did I stay, but for the first time ever, I went ahead and rented out extra land. Added to the single mu we already owned, this meant “unprecedentedly” coming into possession of a 15-mu ecological rice paddy farm—and right outside our front window!

Is this not the simple, hazy yet beautiful dream we harboured fourteen years ago when we first decided to return home?

Thank you, silkworms!

◉ We’ll continue growing rice on these 15 mu right outside the door this year too.

Drafted on 9 February 2026 (22nd day of the 12th lunar month, Year of the Snake)

Revised on 23 February 2026 (7th day of the 1st lunar month, Year of the Horse)

Foodthink Author
Yu Jiangang
Born and raised in Zhenghebeng, a silk-making village in Jiangnan, Yu Jiangang graduated in 2008 and went on to work in brand consultancy in Beijing. Driven by a concern for agriculture, rural areas and farmers, he resigned in 2011 to become an intern at Little Donkey Farm. He later volunteered in rural development projects among Zhuang communities along the Guangxi–Vietnam border. After returning home, he founded “Mei He Yu” with his wife, Mei Yuhui. The venture focuses on producing fine-craft silk quilts and passing on traditional skills, with the aim of revitalising China’s intangible cultural heritage of farming and sericulture, and forging new traditions. WeChat Official Account: Mei He Yu; Podcast: Tuanli Jiegou

 

Unless otherwise noted, images are provided by the author

Editor: Tianle