From humble origins to healthy light fare: how soba became Japan’s national staple

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●The most common ‘Mori Soba’ in Japan; the dipping sauce is typically a blend of dashi, brewed from kombu and bonito, and soy sauce.
Dehulling buckwheat seeds, grinding them into flour, mixing it with wheat flour to form a dough, and then cutting it into long, thin strands—this is how one of Japan’s most everyday foods is made.

In Japanese, the word for ‘buckwheat’ (soba) is a homophone for ‘beside’. Thus, asking for ‘soba’ can sound like asking someone to ‘stay by my side’. This is why buckwheat noodles are often given as gifts to new neighbours when moving house. On *Omisoka* (New Year’s Eve), eating *Toshikoshi Soba* (year-crossing noodles) is essential—much like the tradition of eating noodles on birthdays in China to symbolise longevity.

Why did buckwheat surpass rice and wheat to become Japan’s national staple? A pairing of chilled noodles, dipping sauce, and fried vegetables may seem unremarkable. However, after living for a year in Nagano, the ‘home of soba’, I have finally come to appreciate the charm of buckwheat in the quiet, steady flow of daily life.

I. From Buckwheat Dumplings and Porridge to Soba Noodles

The history of buckwheat consumption in Japan dates back as far as the Jomon period, roughly 9,300 years ago—even longer than that of rice.

However, before the Edo period (1603–1868), buckwheat was not eaten as thin noodles but was cooked into a porridge, much like rice. Later, people learned to dehull and grind the seeds into flour, leading to the creation of *soba-gaki*—soft, sticky buckwheat dumplings made by mixing flour with hot water. These can be served as a dessert with red bean soup, seasoned with soy sauce and mustard, or simply served in soba broth to preserve their natural flavour.

In Nagano Prefecture, *oyaki*—buckwheat dough wrapped around fillings such as *nozawana* (pickled greens), miso eggplant, or pumpkin puree and then grilled—are also highly popular. People gather around hearths to grill *oyaki* during the long, snowy winter months.

●Black buckwheat seeds and *soba-gaki*; the latter can still be found on the menus of some soba restaurants.
●Residents of Nagano Prefecture grilling *oyaki* around a hearth.

The Togakushi region of Nagano Prefecture is generally considered the birthplace of soba noodles. Much of Nagano is mountainous and difficult to farm. Buckwheat is more cold-resistant and resilient than rice or wheat, making it ideal for the mountain terrain. Mixing buckwheat and wheat flour to create thin noodles, known as *soba-kiri*, began as a treat during tea ceremonies at Togakushi temples and as a sustaining food for ascetic monks on long journeys.

In Nagano, soba is regarded as ‘the food of the gods’ and served as a vegetarian meal for monks. In the Edo region, however, it became popular among migrant workers due to its convenience and low cost, from where it spread throughout Japan.

●Buckwheat fields at the foot of the Togakushi mountain range in Nagano Prefecture.
●Knife-cut soba, which originated in the Edo period and continues today. Professional shops employ their own *teuchi* (hand-cut) soba artisans.

Many of today’s representative Japanese delicacies, such as sushi, unagi-don, tempura, udon, and soba, became popular among the common people of the Edo period. In the evenings of old Edo, vendors carrying soba stalls adorned with wind-chimes would wander the streets, calling out ‘Soba!’ (implicitly inviting people to stay by their side), becoming an indispensable part of the residents’ daily scenery.

●Left: A mobile soba stall (*yatai*) from the late Edo period, known as ‘Furin Soba’ (wind-chime soba) due to the bells hanging from the eaves. Right: An ukiyo-e print by Utagawa Kunisada clearly showing the interior of a Furin Soba stall.
Specialist soba restaurants (*soba-ya*) began appearing towards the end of the Edo period, and the menus gradually evolved into the forms common today.

II. Soba and Tempura: The Beginnings of Japanese Dining Culture

Visitors to Japan for the first time may find the terminology on a soba menu somewhat confusing.

Suishabiki: The method of grinding. Originally, stone mills were used; today, most are replaced by machinery, though several venerable shops still maintain the ‘suishabiki’ tradition. As Nagano is rich in rivers, soba shops were built along the banks to use water-wheels for dehulling and grinding. In the past, water-wheels were more convenient than stone mills; today, some old establishments take pride in using them, believing that the heat generated by high-speed machinery can compromise the flavour of the buckwheat.

Juwari Soba and Nihachi Soba: These refer to the ratio of buckwheat to wheat flour. ‘Juwari Soba’ is made from 100% buckwheat flour and has a firmer texture. The most popular ‘Nihachi Soba’ uses an 8:2 ratio of buckwheat to wheat, resulting in a softer texture while retaining the buckwheat flavour. There is even a self-deprecating ‘Reverse Nihachi Soba’ (2:8 ratio), a cheaper version used in budget standing-soba shops and supermarket ready-meals to save costs.

Teuchi Soba: In terms of preparation, there are large chains using machines and traditional shops that retain *teuchi* (hand-cut) artisans. These craftsmen use heavy, specialised knives to cut the dough into thin noodles, a laborious process.

Shin-soba: Soba made from buckwheat seeds freshly harvested in autumn. Due to its intense aroma and strong flavour, it is called ‘Shin-soba’ (new soba). In ancient times, when storage was poor, there was even a proverb saying ‘even a dog wouldn’t eat summer soba’. While conditions have improved, ‘Autumn Shin-soba’ remains irreplaceable, and as early autumn arrives, soba shops proudly display ‘Shin-soba’ signs to attract customers.

Mori Soba: While modern menus vary, the most basic distinction is between cold and hot noodles. The most representative cold dish is Mori Soba. It was originally created to distinguish it from *Kake Soba*, where the noodles are served directly in the broth. Because it is typically served on a bamboo sieve, it is also known as *Zaru Soba*.

Boiled soba noodles, chilled in cold water and served on a bamboo sieve with a side of seasonal vegetable tempura, is the pairing that best showcases the essence of buckwheat.

‘Ten-zaru’ is another popular choice on the menu. The combination of chilled noodles with piping hot, freshly fried seasonal wild vegetable tempura is a perfect match.

One of the most important concepts in Japanese culinary culture is *shun*, which emphasises using ingredients at the peak of their season for maximum freshness and flavour. Soba is no different; every season has its own signature variety.

● Left: Hot duck soba, a winter seasonal special. Duck is rare in Japan and typically appears only as a seasonal ingredient during winter. Right: Nishin soba, featuring pickled herring served with kake soba, a speciality of Hokkaido and Kyoto.

● Top: “Touji Soba”, in which soba is dipped into a hot broth made with mushrooms, wild mountain vegetables, and chicken—a style unique to the cold mountain regions. Bottom: Tororo-kake soba (grated yam soba), where the yam is beaten into a paste with a viscous, delicately sweet texture; it is one of the most common pairings for soba.

Depending on the toppings, there are also Tsukimi soba (named for the whole egg placed on the noodles, which resembles a full moon), Kitsune soba (tofu skin), wild vegetable soba, grated radish soba, and more.

In Nagano and Tokyo, various schools of preparation have emerged based on the origin of the buckwheat or the milling method. Naturally, eating habits vary by region, and there is even a proverb that says, “You can tell where someone is from just by how they eat their soba.”

A hundred shops, a hundred different kinds of soba—this is perhaps one of the great joys of eating soba.

● The waterwheel mill of the “Nakanoya” soba restaurant, built along a stream in the Norikura Highlands of Nagano Prefecture. Nakanoya’s soba is known for its smooth texture. The restaurant also serves miso-marinated Iwana (char) grilled in Sasa bamboo leaves—a taste that is absolutely divine.

III. From Humble Fare to Healthy Light Eating

According to the *Shoku Nihon-gi* (The Continuation of the Chronicles of Japan), during the Nara period, severe droughts led to widespread famine. While commoners planted buckwheat extensively to survive, the aristocrats of the upper class remained entirely unaware that buckwheat could even be used as food.

As a famine-relief crop for impoverished farmers and a sustaining meal for ascetic monks on long journeys, buckwheat seems to possess an inherent, rustic earthiness. Compared to sushi restaurants—which, following documentaries like *Jiro Dreams of Sushi*, can cost tens of thousands of yen and are nearly impossible to secure a seat in—or *Shojin Ryori* (temple cuisine), which similarly originated with monastic practitioners, soba has always been the food of the common people. Even today, at the most prestigious soba restaurants, a serving of Zaru Soba typically costs around 1,000 yen (approximately 50 RMB).

Because it is cheap and quick, *Tachigui* (standing) soba shops have become popular among urban office workers. For a modest price ranging from 400 to 600 yen, one can quickly obtain a bowl of noodles. Clad in suits, these workers stand at narrow counters, eat quickly, and depart in haste to return to their desks.

Within the platforms of Japan Railways (JR), one often finds *Eki-soba* (station soba) stalls. In the few minutes spent waiting for a train, there is just enough time to eat a bowl of hot soba to fill the stomach before heading to one’s destination.

● A standing soba shop at the North Exit of Nakano Station in Tokyo; long queues form outside during the lunch hour.
The Japanese author Shinobu Yoshii also describes the scene of these standing soba shops in his new book, *Tokyo Eight Square Metres*.

“At midday in Tokyo, when I step into a ‘standing’ soba shop to fill my stomach, the customers are exclusively salarymen, mostly men; I find myself among them, slurping hot soba. Whether they are alone or with colleagues, they share a common aura—slightly patterned, with a polished, seasoned way of speaking and behaving.” (*Tokyo Eight Square Metres*)

Usually, the only sound in a standing soba shop is the hurried slurping of noodles; time is too precious for conversation. Yet, these hubs for the common people are also repositories of human stories.

NHK’s documentary programme *72 Hours* once filmed a soba vending machine located near a port station in Akita. Having operated for forty years and sold over 400,000 servings, the machine was set to close due to age and mechanical failure. During a blizzard in the dead of winter, people flocked to bid it farewell.

There was a 78-year-old man who had lost his wife 13 years ago and came alone to eat his birthday noodles, hoping for a chat with those around him; a driver who had finished a designated driving shift at 4 a.m., enjoying a midnight moment alone under the starlit sky and sea breeze; and a 53-year-old confectioner diagnosed with cancer, who remarked that even coming here alone, he did not feel lonely… As the machine finally shut down, many could not hold back their tears.

This poignant tale of parting centred around a soba vending machine became the highest-rated episode in the history of the NHK programme.

● A soba vending machine at Akita Port. For 200 yen and a 25-second wait, you get a steaming bowl of instant soba. Image source: Screenshot from *NHK 72 Hours*

Today, alongside traditional old-established shops and convenient chains, fashionable soba restaurants targeting a younger demographic are also becoming popular.

Compared to rice, buckwheat is rich in protein and dietary fibre, produces beneficial amino acids, and is lower in calories. Nutritional research suggests that the combination of Vitamin C and rutin found in buckwheat helps capillaries function effectively and can help inhibit hypertension and prevent cerebral arteriosclerosis. Consequently, soba has become a symbol of healthy light eating, gaining popularity among the younger generation.

● “Oto-na”, a soba restaurant near Nagano Station in Nagano City. The environment is stylish and minimalist, offering innovative broth options such as basil and lime. At night, Oto-na transforms into a bar.

The pairing of soba and sake has existed since ancient times. Nagano produces both buckwheat and excellent sake. Thus, “soba bars”—which combine the two—are highly popular. They often call themselves “So Bars,” a portmanteau of the Japanese word for buckwheat (soba) and “bar.”

Currently, the All Japan Soba Association organises various activities across the country to promote soba culture, such as Soba University lectures, Soba Expos, children’s experience courses, and a certification system for soba artisans. They also engage in international exchanges regarding the culinary culture of soba, hoping to preserve and develop this traditional heritage.

So, which day is actually the official festival for soba?

Because *Toshikoshi Soba* is eaten on *Omisoka* (New Year’s Eve), some believe the last day of every month is Soba Day. The 8th of February is also regarded as “Ni-hachi Soba” Day. The Noodle Association considers the 8th of October to be Soba Day, as the Japanese numbers for 10 and 8 create a phonetic pun with “soba.”

But for the average person, any day you remember to go and enjoy a bowl of soba can be Soba Day.

● At the end: my favourite soba—a small serving of Zaru Soba and tempura from the Gassho Soba house in the Norikura Highlands, Nagano Prefecture.

Foodthink Author

Li Yindou

Born in Jiangxi, studied and worked in Beijing, Shanghai, and Nagano. Now residing in Tokyo. When not painting, she works part-time in cafes and restaurants.

 

 

 

Editor: Ze En

 

Published by Foodthink