Why are fermented foods so appetising, eye-opening, and joyful? A curated ‘food for thought’ list of books and films.

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The “Fermentation Awakening Life Festival”, co-hosted by Foodthink and the Beijing Organic Farmers’ Market, opened its doors two weeks ago! Episodes on kombucha, mozzarella, and ricotta from “The Alchemy of Food” video series have been released in succession, while the “Art of Fermentation” book club has just concluded its second shared reading session. In truth, this is not the first time Foodthink has developed a passion for fermentation. During the pandemic, as enthusiasm for making fermented foods at home soared, Foodthink organised reading groups for several books on the subject. Many of our colleagues, both seasoned and aspiring fermentation enthusiasts, frequently bring their home-made creations into the office to share with everyone.

Through fermentation, we have not only discovered more delicious flavours but have also broadened our understanding of nature and culture, while bringing people closer together. We are therefore delighted to share this appetising, uplifting, and eye-opening “Food Knowledge” reading list with our readers, and we hope that fermentation will bring even more people together.

01 Sandor Katz: *The Art of Fermentation* & *The Complete Guide to Fermentation*

The Art of Fermentation
Wild Fermentation
Born into a Jewish family and raised in New York, Sandor Katz is a self-taught fermentation expert, a revivalist of traditional fermentation crafts, an advocate for DIY foods, and a gourmet writer. Driven by his interests in cookery, nutrition, and horticulture, Katz began exploring fermentation techniques; to date, he has taught his methods in hundreds of food studios across the US and is hailed as a “revivalist of fermentation”. In 2003, Katz published *Wild Fermentation: The Flavor, Nutrition, and Craft of Live-Culture Food* (the Simplified Chinese edition of which was released as *The Complete Guide to Fermentation* in 2020). Thanks to its revolutionary concepts of wild fermentation and comprehensive knowledge of vegan fermentation, *Newsweek* praised the work as a “classic of the fermentation world”.

In 2012, building upon the framework of his original book and incorporating the fermentation of ingredients such as meat and fish, Katz completed *The Art of Fermentation*. This work won the James Beard Foundation Award—the highest honour in the American food industry, often described as the “Oscars of the culinary world”. Katz was also awarded a Lifetime Achievement Award by the Southern Foodways Alliance. *The New York Times* described him as a “rare rock star in the American food world”, while *CHOW* magazine (a renowned food community magazine under CBS) called him a “top trendsetter”.

Throughout these two books, Katz has encouraged people to turn their kitchens into food laboratories and experiment with DIY fermentation: transforming vegetables into sauerkraut, milk into cheese or yoghurt, grains into bread and alcohol, and beans into miso, tempeh, and more.

Beyond his books, Katz conducts workshops across North America, imparting the knowledge and skills of fermentation in person. He prefers to call himself “Sandorkraut”, a portmanteau of his name, Sandor Katz, and the German word for sauerkraut, *Sauerkraut*.

Why is Katz so keen to spread the culture of fermentation? Beyond the rich sensory experience and health benefits that fermented foods provide, there are likely deeper reasons.

In the preface to *The Art of Fermentation*, Katz emphasises:

“For as long as humans have had a history, the fermentation of most foods has been an ongoing process; yet this ancient ritual has now been shifted to factory production lines. Fermentation has all but disappeared from the home kitchen.”“Every organism on Earth interacts closely with its environment through food. Yet, in our high-tech society, most humans have severed this connection, leading to catastrophic consequences.”

“Global shipping consumes vast resources and wreaks environmental havoc. … Most globalised foods are produced in vast monoculture zones, established at the expense of forests and a diverse array of subsistence crops. When we rely entirely on the global trade system, we place ourselves in an extremely fragile position, where a single disruption could lead to collapse…”

“There are numerous reasons why productive local food systems are superior to globalised ones; for instance, they can produce fresher, more nutritious food while boosting local employment and productivity. Furthermore, by removing the dependence on fuel and massive infrastructure, they reduce waste and enhance food security. We must forge a tighter connection between food and the land, and there must be those willing to engage in the labour-intensive work of farming. We must value and reward such work, and step forward to take part in it.”

The *Journey of Fermentation* documentary series (8 episodes)

In 2016, Katz travelled through Chengdu, Guizhou, Dali, and Kunming in Southwest China, filming an eight-part documentary: *People’s Republic of Fermentation*. For those who can’t wait, the unsubtitled version of *People’s Republic of Fermentation* can be searched for on Bilibili. Foodthink author Wanqing happens to live in the same region as Katz; she has received his authorisation and is currently helping to translate the film, and will also be interviewing him. We will be hosting an offline screening in November or December to watch the subtitled version of *People’s Republic of Fermentation* together. Please stay tuned to Foodthink’s latest updates for more information on the screening and the interview with Katz.

Drawn by the sausages hanging outside the window, Katz met Auntie Ding and her pickled vegetables, doubanjiang, and twice-cooked pork… Image source: *People’s Republic of Fermentation*, Episode 1, still
Katz was absolutely delighted to be allowed to stir the ‘seven-year-old doubanjiang’. Image source: *People’s Republic of Fermentation*, Episode 2, still

II. Mary & Liu Xinzheng, The Wonders of Fermentation and Brewing

*The Wonders of Fermentation and Brewing*

Mary and Liu Xinzheng studied fermentation engineering at university. Driven by their love for beer and a feeling that commercial offerings didn’t quite hit the mark, they began brewing their own craft beers. After winning the approval of their friends, they decided to launch their own craft brand: Nine-Inch Brews.

Alongside managing the brand, they have travelled widely to gather inspiration, exploring diverse fermentation cultures and meeting master artisans. Their journeys have taken them from searching for the finest domestic honey to brew mead, to tackling the “ultimate pungency” of fermented winter melon, and sampling the “pickle everything” *suanye* in Guangxi… Mary recalls that while developing rice wine, she was involved in every step from planting the paddy to the final brew, which gave her a profound sense of the “joy of the harvest”. In her eyes, whether it is grapes, barley, corn, rice, or agave in Mexico, the fact that they can all naturally ferment into alcohol under their respective environmental conditions reflects the openness and diversity of fermentation culture.

● Scan the QR code to listen to Nine-Inch Brews as guests on the Foodthink podcast, “Food Talk”.

To this end, they hope to document the art of fermentation beyond their commercial products. They have already published their first book on fermentation culture, *The Wonder of Fermentation and Brewing*, with a second volume already in the works.

*The Wonder of Fermentation and Brewing* uses the accessible craft of home-brewing as an entry point. By selecting seasonal, readily available ingredients and providing rigorous instructions, it guides readers step-by-step through the process of crafting their own brew, offering a gentle introduction to the world of fermentation. The book also delves into fermentation culture, employing vivid prose and stunning photography to share the human stories and fascinating journeys behind brewing. By artfully blending history and culture with daily life, it invites readers to explore the endless charm of fermentation and the intriguing connection it shares with our everyday lives.

● Mr Liu’s first attempt at brewing Surima wine, using herbal starters gathered from the Mosuo people’s Goddess Mountain at Lugu Lake and local highland red rice. Photo: Mary

In April 2022, Foodthink organised a group reading of *The Wonders of Fermentation and Brewing*, inviting both authors to lead the discussions.

Through their products and documentation, Mary and Liu Xinzheng hope to broaden public understanding of fermentation and encourage people to explore a more diverse range of fermented foods. While preserving traditional brewing techniques, they have introduced a professional scientific approach to fermentation, seeking to maintain tradition while improving quality through process optimisation.

● On 22 October, Nine Inch Craft participated as a guest in the fermentation market at the ‘Ferment Awakening Life Festival’, jointly hosted by Foodthink and the Beijing Organic Farmers’ Market. For more book clubs, videos, and offline themed events over the next two months, please stay tuned to Foodthink and the ‘Ferment Awakening Life Festival’.

III. Itaru Watanabe, The Miracle of the Country Bakery

*The Miracle of the Countryside Bakery*

After spending several years as a corporate drone in Tokyo, thirty-year-old Itaru Watanabe questioned his path and eventually decided to devote the rest of his life to natural fermentation. He discovered that the microscopic world within food offers profound insights into human society and development, and that the operating models of modern bakeries can help us understand Marx’s critique of capitalism. Consequently, he and his wife moved to the countryside to open an unconventional bakery called Talmary.

Mr Watanabe (left) named the bakery Talmary, with ‘Tal’ and ‘Mary’ taken from his and his wife’s (right) names. Image source: https://www.instagram.com/talmary.chizu

While working with invisible microorganisms and refining his craft of baking natural yeast bread, Watanabe pondered how to balance the quality of his bread and his family’s quality of life with the long-term sustainability of the business. This journey led to the creation of *The Miracle of the Countryside Bakery*.

● In 2017, Itaru Watanabe demonstrates his experiment on using rice to isolate indigenous microorganisms for fermentation to industry peers at Talmary in Tottori Prefecture. Photo: Tianle
● Following a visit to Talmary in 2017, Itaru Watanabe and his wife pose with Japanese industry peers and Tianle from Foodthink. Photo: Tianle

In September 2017, shortly after the founding of Foodthink, our colleague Tianle travelled to Tottori Prefecture to visit Mr Watanabe and his family at their bakery. He had the privilege of gaining a deep understanding of Mr Watanabe’s philosophy and witnessing first-hand the miracles of natural fermentation.

Reading this book offers more than just the practical knowledge required to bake natural yeast bread; through the author’s explanations, one can also grasp the underlying logic of capitalist economics. Whether you are interested in the art of baking or are reflecting on how to work and live, this is a light, accessible read that provides a genuine sense of enlightenment.

IV. Marie-Claire Frédéric: Neither Raw nor Cooked – A Civilisation History of Fermented Foods

Neither Raw nor Cooked
In this book, “fermentation” is no longer merely a common food or a traditional method of preservation. Under the pen of French writer Marie-Claire, it unfolds before us like a magnificent historical tapestry—from the origins of agricultural civilisation to the stratification of social classes, the emergence of religion, and cultural exchange, through to the prevalence and inheritance of regional fermentation techniques, and finally to the impact of modern industrial food production on traditional culture. Through these exhaustive descriptions, we gain a deep understanding of the relationship between humans and food processing from a new perspective; it is a captivating, alternative history of food. One could say that it is because of “fermentation” that humanity transitioned from savagery to civilisation. Time is no longer solely the agent of ageing, decay, and death; with the help of microorganisms, it becomes a positive force, bringing maturity, renewal, health, and the ability to resist disease. Learning and passing on traditional fermentation culture is of extraordinary significance for preserving the diversity of the microbial flora that coexists with humans and promoting sustainable, independent food systems in different regions. It allows us to reclaim the right to produce foods unique to ourselves or our localities amidst a sea of monotonous industrialised products.

After all, “Between the raw and the cooked, fermented foods have accompanied humanity since its beginning, and as long as there are humans upon this earth, fermentation will essentially never cease.”

05 Foodthink’s “The Alchemy of Food” Video Series (10 Episodes)

Much like our daily meals come from our own kitchens, home fermentation knows no absolute authorities or experts; there are only differences in taste and preference. As long as one is eager to research and brave enough to experiment, anyone can become an expert in making fermented foods. Foodthink has invited six “fermentation masters” to produce a series of 10 short videos demonstrating the creation of 10 different fermented foods. Some approach it like a laboratory experiment, precisely recording every variable that brings about change; others grew up eating their mothers’ fermented foods, with those flavours deeply etched into their palates; some have travelled great distances to study, turning fermentation into their professional calling. What they share is that they have each fostered their own local fermentation communities, bringing together more friends through a shared love for certain foods.

The varieties of fermented foods are countless; we can never truly enumerate them all. The “Alchemy of Fermentation” video series selects six categories and ten types of fermented foods, all of which are straightforward and beginner-friendly. If you are interested in these foods, we suggest starting by tasting—obtain samples from friends or the creators in the videos to train your palate and develop your insight before following the video instructions. Recording the process and the evolving flavours is also an excellent way to practice and build a habit. We hope you too can find a fermentation community near you and share the joy of making and tasting with friends.

In addition to the books and films mentioned above, we welcome everyone to participate in the “Fermentation Awakening Life Festival,” co-organised by Foodthink and several partners. Please keep an eye out for offline events in Shanghai, Dali, Chengdu, Nanning, and Guangzhou.

The Foodthink “Fermentation Bible” reading club is currently underway. Replays of the two previous online discussions are available; two further discussions will take place on November 15th and 25th, both online and offline. Please stay tuned.

Foodthink will be streaming live on November 15th at 19:00.

Please follow the Foodthink video account to book Ma Junli: *The Fermentation Bible* Third Discussion | Foodthink Reading Club

Foodthink will be streaming live on November 25th at 15:00.

Please follow the Foodthink video account to book Shuyu & Jingyan: *The Fermentation Bible* Fourth Discussion | Foodthink Reading Club

Recently, the “Getting to Know Food” themed book exhibition, a collaboration between Foodthink and the “i-Person Study” at Possibly Books, is also underway. It is scheduled to run until November 17th. Friends in Beijing are welcome to visit the exhibition, browse our recommended books, and acquire more culinary wisdom.

Foodthink believes that fermentation is more than just a method of food processing; it is a culture rooted in traditional knowledge that continues to innovate and evolve. The ‘Ferment Your Life’ Festival aims to invite more partners to help spread this fermentation culture. We have prepared a small fermentation bookshelf and a series of videos for screening, intended for like-minded public spaces across the country that aspire to connect people with nature and their communities through fermented foods.

Whether you run a bookstore, a specialty food shop, a farmers’ market, a café, a bakery, a restaurant, or a community kitchen or centre open to the public, if you are interested in participating, Foodthink can provide you with a fermentation bookshelf featuring titles such as *The Art of Fermentation*, *The Noma Guide to Fermentation*, and *Neither Raw nor Ripe*.

If your space can host offline screenings, we can provide the *Alchemy of Food* video series and the *Fermentation Journey* documentary—filmed in China by Sandor Katz, author of *The Art of Fermentation*—along with accompanying viewing and reading guides.

Please scan the QR code below to provide a brief introduction of yourself and the space where the bookshelf or screenings would be hosted. If selected, we will contact you to send the books, bookshelf, and display materials free of charge, and provide the necessary video links.

About the ‘Ferment Your Life’ Festival
Launched by Foodthink in October 2023, the ‘Ferment Your Life’ Festival is a collaborative effort with dozens of farmers’ markets, farms, fermentation artisans, restaurants, publishers, and non-profit organisations across the country. Centred on the theme of fermented foods, the festival features over two months of online and offline activities in various cities and communities, including screenings of the *Alchemy of Food* series, fermentation-themed markets, book clubs, movie nights, sharing sessions, workshops, and tasting events. We invite you to follow the Foodthink WeChat official account and our partners’ accounts across various platforms for the latest videos, articles, podcasts, and event information. Discover local fermentation activities, meet fellow fermentation enthusiasts, and let’s ferment our lives together!

FERMENT｜YOUR｜LIFE｜FESTIVAL 

– Organisers –

Foodthink  Beijing Organic Farmers’ Market

– Co-creators –

Hushan Culture  Bule Cheese  Yijian Bakery  Xiucai Tofu Studio

Happy Lab  Nine-Inch Craft  She Garden  Da Xiao Coffee

Qiaolike  Beer Hall  White Tiger Village  Fengnianqing

Chengdu Life Market  Nanning Urban Farmers’ Market

(List constantly being updated)

– Supporters –

Tianren Culture  Heyi Holdings

Editor: Foodthink

Published by Foodthink