Altay herders migrating to summer pastures still live in the shadow of the blizzards

● Altay herders during their seasonal migration. In Northern Xinjiang, many roads were constructed along the traditional migration routes of Kazakh herders; it is commonplace for vehicles to give way to livestock during this season.

In late June, while travelling to Jiangbutasi Village in eastern Altay, Xinjiang, we frequently encountered Kazakh herders on horseback driving their cattle and sheep to new pastures, with cars often coming to a halt to let the herds pass. This is the peak of the migration season.

Herders in the Altay region largely maintain their semi-nomadic traditions: grazing livestock on high-altitude pastures in the summer, returning to settlements at the foot of the mountains in winter, and using mid-mountain pastures as transitional grounds during spring and autumn. At present, most of the livestock from Jiangbutasi Village have reached the middle pastures of the Naogan region, where they await the final ascent.

● A herder’s yurt in the Naogan middle pastures. It is approximately a twenty-minute drive from the settlement in the valley below.

Whether in the villages nestled at the foot of the mountains or within the white yurts of the middle pastures, scenes of herders milking cows, sipping milk tea, and playing with their children are common—serene and joyful.

Looking at this alone, it is hard to imagine that just six months ago, they endured a natural disaster the likes of which had not been seen for over a decade. In late November 2022, the entire Altay region was hit by a rare blizzard (click for more details). From 23 November, Jiangbutasi Village was buried under five consecutive days of heavy snowfall. Thick drifts blocked the roads into and out of the village, making it impossible to transport fodder and coal. For those whose winter reserves were insufficient, there was nothing to do but wait in helpless anxiety.

● Five consecutive days of blizzards in November 2022 saw overnight lows plunge below -40°C, a rarity for the region. Image source: Xinjiang Landscapes.

Through the joint efforts of the village committee and the resident public welfare organisation, the Xinjiang Mountain-Water Environmental Protection and Sustainable Development Centre (hereinafter referred to as the “Xinjiang Mountain-Water Environmental Centre”), over 30,000 yuan in charitable donations was used to clear the roads. Furthermore, dozens of tonnes of maize silage were brought in from outside and distributed free of charge to 41 herding households (click for details), providing some urgent relief.

During our door-to-door visits, we were deeply moved by the optimistic and resilient spirit of most of the herders. In reality, however, many are still living in the shadow of last year’s blizzard. The negative impact of extreme weather on livestock health, the grassland environment, herders’ income, and their standard of living is more complex and enduring than one might imagine.

● Whether in their settlements or on the pastures, Kazakh women spend every day milking livestock and crafting dairy products.

I. Herders’ Livelihoods After the Blizzard

The first herder we visited was Biesen, the deputy director for livestock in Jiangbutasi village. Having served on the village committee since 2006, Biesen is rarely found in his office; he spends most of his time grazing alongside the village herders, keeping a constant watch on the weather and the state of the pastures, and coordinating solutions to the various problems the herders encounter. In Naogan, within the middle pastures, it took several enquiries before we managed to find his yurt. Now 54, Biesen lives with his wife and youngest son, raising over 100 goats and 30 sheep, with their larger livestock—cattle and horses—numbering around 40 head.

● Before his appointment as deputy director, Bie Xian (far left) served as the village Party branch secretary for 18 years, giving him an intimate knowledge of the local pastures and the circumstances of the herders.

Like most Kazakh herders, the family’s primary source of income comes from selling livestock. When combined with salaries, casual agricultural work, and ecological and frontier subsidies, their annual income typically reaches around 100,000 yuan. However, last year was an exception; aside from salaries and government grants, they had almost no income at all—only expenses.

Director Bie Xian explained that the loss of income was due to the pandemic control measures of recent years, which disrupted the livestock market. Jiangbutasi Village, located in a remote area bordering Mongolia to the northeast, suffers from poor transport links. With outside traders unable to reach the village, local buyers seized the opportunity to slash prices; local cattle that once fetched seven or eight thousand yuan could only be sold for two or three thousand last year.

With livestock fetching poor prices, the herders had no choice but to keep them. The prolonged winter in the Altay mountains only intensified the need for fodder. Following a snowstorm the likes of which hadn’t been seen in over a decade, winter in Jiangbutasi Village stretched on for nearly six months, only finally coming to an end with the last snowfall in May.

For Jiangbutasi Village, where the tradition of four-season nomadic herding is largely preserved, winter is the most grueling season for the animals. Much of the fat stored up over the preceding months is depleted during this time, and ewes nearing lambing require additional care and nutrition.

In years with moderate snowfall, cattle and sheep can forage freely in the winter pastures, licking snow to quench their thirst. However, during a severe winter lasting nearly eight months, the pastures are buried under deep snow, forcing herders to keep their livestock in pens within the settlements and rely entirely on purchased feed.

● A livestock pen used by the herder Hama’en’s family to store fodder.
The significant expense of purchasing fodder has exhausted the savings of many villagers, forcing them to rely on loans and credit and leaving them burdened with debt. Whenever the subject is raised, Director Biexian grows anxious. For years, Jiangbutasi was a poverty-stricken village; it was only after emerging from poverty a few years ago that residents’ incomes finally reached a moderate level. Unexpectedly, following the pandemic and last year’s blizzard, their standard of living has fallen once more.

II. Ailing Livestock

● Salikguli pointed out the location of her family’s pasture to us.

Salikguli, the herder who has been driving us for our household surveys these past few days, also lost six cows due to the lockdowns and snowstorms.

Last winter, Salikguli’s family had limited fodder reserves. Unable to risk their supplies, she couldn’t afford to provide the livestock with their normal supplementary feed, giving them only a tiny amount each day. She tried other ways to supplement their nutrition—every three or four days, she would mix raw eggs with fodder into a paste for the cows—but this could not fundamentally solve the shortage of feed.

The hungry cows couldn’t stay in the pens and wandered off to the mountains in search of grass. At the time, pandemic restrictions were still in place and villagers were ordered to stay indoors; unable to check on her herd regularly, Salikguli lost four cows to wolves. Two others died of thirst, trapped in a fence unable to reach water. Her most prized cow had lost its ear tag, making her ineligible for insurance compensation—she was so upset she didn’t drink milk tea for two days.

When talking about these events, Salikguli’s tone was unnervingly calm. As we didn’t speak the language, it was only after hearing the translation that we realised the scale of the loss.

I asked Salikguli how many cows she planned to sell this year. She didn’t answer me directly, saying only, “No one can say what will happen.” Including five cows culled due to livestock disease, her family lost half their herd last year. Nomadic life is fraught with uncertainty; who can guarantee that no accidents will happen this year?

Yet, perhaps a glimmer of hope remains in Salikguli’s heart. She added that if the market is good this year and a cow can fetch over 10,000, selling just three would be enough to clear the debts and credit she took on to buy fodder during the winter.

But given the condition of the herd, such expectations are unlikely to become reality. Salikguli noticed that this year’s new calves are reluctant to follow their mothers because the cows were underfed in winter and lack enough milk. Both the adult cows and the calves are generally frail; all they can do now is hope to put on some weight over the coming months.

● On the pasture, small animals are the best friends of Kazakh children.

III. Drought-stricken Pastures

On the second morning after our arrival in Jiangbutasi village, Salikeguli and another local guide, Marwa, took us to Sandao Haizi. Spanning approximately 600 square kilometres on the southern slopes of the Altay Mountains, Sandao Haizi is a subalpine grassland and wetland renowned for its three alpine lakes. It serves as both a primary local tourist attraction and a communal summer pasture for villagers from several surrounding livestock-rearing communities. Traditionally, from 5 July, thousands of Kazakh herding families, including those from Jiangbutasi, drive their cattle and sheep here for the seasonal migration.

● On 21 June, there were still large patches of snow on the mountains of Sandao Haizi.

Based on the villagers’ experience, the snow at Sandao Haizi should have mostly melted by the end of June in previous years. However, this year a significant amount of snow remains, and the temperature is more than 10 degrees lower than in the valley below. Having ascended in short sleeves, we were quick to throw on thick coats to shield ourselves from the cold wind.

With the late snowmelt and the sluggish rise in temperature, the grass on the mountain is growing slowly. Several herders noted that the migration to the summer pastures would likely be pushed back by a few days this year.

The state of the Middle Pastures is equally worrying. Director Bie Xian observed that the grass in the Naogan area is not thriving as it has in previous years and has already begun to wither.

● A section of a herder’s pasture in the Middle Pasture.

As we accompanied Director Bie Xian to visit 82-year-old Yahuti, a light drizzle began to fall over the pastures. We were soaked by the time we reached the yurt, but Yahuti and his family were overjoyed—it was the first rain the mountain had seen in two months. However, the rain ceased within twenty minutes, doing little to ease the acute drought. Director Bie Xian suspects that this will be another dry year.

In his memory, 2010 marked a turning point. Since then, winter snows have fallen heavier than usual, summer rains have dwindled, and the air has grown increasingly arid.

● 82-year-old Yahuti and his family, who have migrated to the Middle Pasture, were interviewed in their yurt. He fears that if another blizzard like last year’s were to strike, many villagers would be forced to sell off their livestock at rock-bottom prices to settle debts, potentially ending their lives as herders.

With insufficient precipitation during the spring and summer, one might wonder if the snowmelt in the Altay region could alleviate the drought on the pastures.

Hayimu, a 76-year-old veteran herder, carefully explained the situation: excessive snow can crush the pastures, leading to soil erosion and exposed earth. Furthermore, if temperatures rise too quickly in spring, the rapid melt can trigger snowmelt floods. These are more likely to devastate the pastures than to seep into the ground and replenish the groundwater.

● On the road to Sandao Haizi, there are numerous patches of exposed pasture that have been damaged by the weight of the snow.

Having spent decades herding, Hayimu remains remarkably robust; perhaps owing to his youth spent training eagles, his eyes are still bright and piercing. Although he settled in the valley a decade ago, he still rides every day to help his son tend to the family’s livestock.

Speaking of last November’s blizzard, Hayimu remarked that he hadn’t seen anything of that scale in sixty years. He told us that had such a storm hit decades ago, it would certainly have caused severe casualties among both people and livestock. While the village is facing overall hardships this year, they were fortunate that no livestock perished directly in the blizzard.

Recalling past disasters, Hayimu also mentioned the sudden sleet that struck in the summer of 1997. His family still remembers the names of the neighbouring herders who froze to death during that storm.

● Ms Janati (far left) of the Xinjiang Landscapes Environmental Protection Centre and Hayimu (far right) converse in Kazakh. Third from the right is Salikguli.
Salikguli, who was only 17 at the time, also witnessed the devastating loss of livestock first-hand. After two days of brutal sleet, she and her younger brother climbed the mountain in search of any surviving animals. Amidst herds of cattle and sheep that had frozen to death, they found several of a neighbour’s camels huddling together for warmth. They had been kneeling in the freezing cold for so long that they could no longer stand on their own. Desperate to save them, the owner lashed the camels with a whip, striking them until bloody welts appeared. Only then did the animals finally snap out of their stupor, rise, and follow their master home.

IV. An Uncertain Future

“Such is the life of a herdsman.” When Elder Hayimu told us about the disasters he had faced in the past, he didn’t seem overly pessimistic. Instead, there was a sense of acceptance, resignation, and a deep connection to Kazakh nomadic culture. Yet, given the hardships and the sheer level of uncertainty, would the younger generation of herdsmen still choose the path of their fathers?

● Kazakh villagers with the financial means have begun keeping cattle in pens to mitigate the risks of nomadic herding. A centralised, controllable supply is also easier to integrate into the market. Can you tell which of the cattle in the photo is a pedigree breed?
Some villagers are already exploring new paths through intensive farming. During this trip, we visited a small fattening facility: the operator buys calves from local villagers or other regions, fattens them using feed produced in nearby villages, and sells them in bulk when the timing is right. The way this model mitigates climate risk seems obvious. However, when we posed the question of whether nomadic herding or pen-feeding was better to Elder Hayimu, he replied with a wise counter-question: “Do you think livestock eat better when they are free to roam, or when they are waiting to be fed by someone else?”

At that moment, it clicked for us. The elder’s commitment to nomadic life was not merely a matter of following tradition; it was rooted in a profound understanding of its ecological value. With a touch of regret, he noted that many young people today no longer understand the essence of grazing: “They don’t know the benefits of grazing, nor do they understand the drawbacks of abandoning it.”

What, then, is the ecological wisdom embedded within the nomadic traditions of the Kazakh people?

In March this year, with the inspiration and support of partners such as the Beijing Heyi Green Public Welfare Foundation and the Vanke Public Welfare Foundation, the Xinjiang Mountain-Water Environmental Protection Centre launched a “Community Survey on Indigenous Knowledge for Climate Change Adaptation in Pastoral Areas”. The aim is twofold: to document and preserve traditional ecological knowledge, and to enhance herdsmen’s awareness of climate change, thereby enabling more effective adaptation measures.

Secretary Bie believes that villagers should not simply wait for the government to solve their problems. Beyond preserving nomadic traditions, they should seek new livelihoods through external employment, entrepreneurship, or the tourism industry. This is precisely what the Xinjiang Mountain-Water Environmental Protection Centre has been working towards. Since 2017, they have collaborated with the Altay State Forestry Administration and the Liangheyuan Nature Reserve to help the pastoral village of Jiangbutasi achieve sustainable livelihoods.

Over the course of more than seven years, women’s groups were established in the village to revive and preserve the traditional Kazakh art of making black soap; villagers were trained to run guesthouses for tourists; and summer camps were organised for children, bringing in university students from both inside and outside the region to teach them about ecology and traditional wisdom…

● Grandma Montaiyi of Jiangbutasi village demonstrates the production of traditional Kazakh black soap.

After several years of dedicated work, the team from the Xinjiang Mountain-Water Environmental Protection Centre has become the most welcome outsiders in the village. During last year’s snow disaster, the centre raised funds promptly to address the village’s most urgent needs, further helping the villagers appreciate the value of a non-profit organisation as a bridge between their community and the outside world.

From the perspective of local government officials, the Xinjiang Mountain-Water team has introduced new developmental ideas, funding, social resources, and operational methods. By empowering the local people, they have ensured that the government’s rural revitalisation policies can be effectively implemented on the ground.

The end of June marks Eid al-Adha. We bid farewell to Jiangbutasi village early, but our partners from Xinjiang Mountain-Water remained to work and celebrate the festival with the community. For the herdsmen, the most beautiful and significant part of the year—life on the summer pastures—is about to begin. Let us use a Kazakh proverb we heard many times along the way to thank and bless our partners in Altay: “As long as there is health and peace, all is well.”

● 29 June was the first day of Eid al-Adha; the team from the Xinjiang Mountain-Water Environmental Protection Centre visited herdsmen’s homes to celebrate together. Image source: Xinjiang Mountain-Water
Foodthink Author
zeen
Someone who hasn’t yet outgrown the primitive pleasure of eating meat, with an interest in the livestock industry.

 

 

 

 

Foodthink has long been dedicated to the topic of animal husbandry. Since 2018, we have published a series of articles concerning the livestock industry and pastoral regions, seeking to document the authentic lives of herders while exploring how they can live more sustainably within a volatile environment. If you share an interest in these issues, possess first-hand local materials and stories, or have your own insights, we welcome your contributions or contact.

Submissions / Email: info@foodthink.cn or zeen@foodthink.cn

About the Xinjiang Shanshui Environmental Protection Centre
Established in February 2015, the Xinjiang Shanshui Environmental Protection and Sustainable Development Centre is driven by the mission to “rediscover local traditional wisdom, recognise ecological and cultural value, and rebuild a harmonious relationship between humanity and the land”. Within communities surrounding nature reserves, the Centre unearths indigenous knowledge of coexistence between humans and nature, empowering communities through education and outreach to inspire action in preserving ecological and cultural heritage. Simultaneously, as a technical service provider for the community-based co-management initiatives of forestry and grassland departments, the Centre produces knowledge in the form of strategies, methods, regulations, processes, and expertise. It provides concepts, knowledge, and tools for “community co-management” within these departments, while offering grassroots governments civil society case studies and practical references for the construction of an ecological civilisation.

Unless otherwise credited, all images in this article were taken by Foodthink

Editor: Tianle