Drinking Cola at Chinese New Year: Who Invented the Tradition?

With the Spring Festival drawing near, supermarkets are not only slowly filling the air with their festive playlists, but the familiar ‘holiday weight gain’ adage is also dominating social media feeds. In the past, many assumed festive weight gain was simply down to indulging in rich, meat-heavy meals. In recent years, however, a growing body of research has pointed to excessive sugar intake as a primary driver of obesity. The latest evidence comes from a study published in *Nature Medicine* on 7 January 2025. After modelling data across 184 countries, researchers found that in 2020, globally, around one in ten new cases of type 2 diabetes and one in thirty new cases of cardiovascular disease could be attributed to drinking sugar-sweetened beverages.

● Festive-edition drinks are already lining the shelves. Finish these two bottles, and chronic illness will likely visit you sooner than good fortune.

“Cutting back on sugar” has become a buzzword on social media, frequently surfacing in trending topics and everyday consumer conversations. Backlash against high-sugar foods is intensifying, and sales of sugary drinks across the board are sliding to varying degrees. Take soft drinks giant Coca-Cola, for instance. According to its third-quarter 2024 financial report, Coca-Cola’s revenue for the quarter was US$11.854 billion (approximately RMB 84.51 billion), down 1% year-on-year. Sales in the Asia-Pacific region, which includes China, amounted to US$1.349 billion, a 4% year-on-year drop. Media outlets report that during offline surveys, several distributors complained to journalists that moving Coke is becoming increasingly difficult.

Is the sky really falling on Coca-Cola? Probably not. A look at *Empire of Coca-Cola: A History of Resource Plunder* by American historian Bart J. Elmore reveals that crises like this are far from unprecedented, and Coca-Cola’s predicament runs much deeper than simply “making couch potatoes fatter.” Using Coca-Cola as a case study, the author weaves a corporate history that illustrates how the food industry shapes consumer eating habits, exposes the amoral face of transnational capital, and uncovers the unchanging underlying logic behind the ever-shifting tactics of capital extraction.

Behind junk food lie toxic corporate values and actual, non-biodegradable waste that pollutes the planet.

● The Chinese edition of *Empire of Coca-Cola* was published by the People’s Literature Publishing House in 2018. Click the image to read another book review published by Foodthink that year.

I. Three Strategies for Building an Empire

Coca-Cola traces its origins to Atlanta in the US in 1886, accompanied by a familiar founding tale: pharmacist John Pemberton invented the drink in his own pharmacy as a “brain tonic” claimed to “cure addiction to morphine, opium and hallucinogens.” Pemberton heavily promoted the notion that a glass of Coke would banish all psychological and physical anxieties, working like bottled magic. The tale spread so widely that it even spawned urban legends in China, such as the claim that hot Coke can cure a cold.

Few realise that before successfully building the Coca-Cola empire, its founder experienced a bankruptcy. This failure taught him the first key to success: seize policy shifts and piggyback on them. In 1886, Pemberton first rode the coattails of policy during the rise of prohibitionist sentiment in the US. He formulated a new flavoured non-alcoholic soda to replace alcoholic beverages. More precisely, Pemberton produced a concentrated syrup, which he then sold to iced drink vendors in Atlanta. And with that, Coca-Cola’s second critical success factor emerged: outsource all non-core production beyond the concentrate syrup.

The Coca-Cola formula stands as a perfect illustration of the resource gluts of the “Gilded Age”: a blend of water, copious amounts of sugar, inexpensive caffeine, cocaine and spices. The author notes that Coca-Cola, much like a scavenger, accumulated capital by exploiting surpluses, selling cheap commodities with a markup to secure marginal profits. Consequently, as a prerequisite for profitability, seeking out or engineering a glut of cheap raw materials became the third critical pillar of Coca-Cola’s success.

These three critical factors are vividly reflected in how Coca-Cola secured its most essential raw materials. The outcome was a blend of fortuitous timing, geographical advantage and deliberate corporate strategising, which ultimately nurtured a corporate behemoth valued at more than a hundred billion dollars.

● In Billy Wilder’s 1961 classic *One, Two, Three* (released in China as 《玉女风流》), Coca-Cola’s policy of outsourced bottling is turned into a satirical gag: the head of Coke West Germany refuses to hand over the formula to a Soviet representative eager to set up a Coca-Cola plant. Screenshot credit: Yifeng Zhizhiwu Ya @ Douban

II. Water from Public Utilities

First is the ingredient that makes up the largest share of Coca-Cola: water. Pemberton’s pivot from alcohol to a soft drink was not merely a pragmatic concession to the temperance movement, but also a cost-cutting strategy. In the southern city of Atlanta, water was far cheaper and more readily available than liquor. By manufacturing only a concentrated syrup, Coca-Cola not only sidestepped the expense of transporting finished beverages but also neatly transferred the costs of water procurement and bottling to franchise bottlers. The clever twist is that the principal ingredient—water—was neither produced by The Coca-Cola Company nor supplied by the bottlers; it was drawn entirely from municipal water systems. While public water supplies were hardly limitless, with the federal government footing the entire bill for infrastructure and treatment, they appeared boundless from a Coca-Cola perspective. When municipal water in Milwaukee in 1921 cost a mere 0.005 cents per gallon, extreme affordability effectively amounted to abundance.

If Coca-Cola’s practice of ‘bottling public water for profit’ in the United States still only elicits a relatively restrained rebuke that ‘capital is truly insatiable’, its overseas conduct is better described as outright ‘resource plundering’. This is because the company’s foreign investments frequently target regions where water is already critically scarce, even as the business consumes it in vast quantities.

Such brazen extraction naturally provoked local resistance worldwide, though most campaigns ended in defeat. Kerala in India stands as a rare exception. Once the local Coca-Cola bottling plant began operations, groundwater was nearly depleted, and local rivers and soil fell victim to contamination. In 2002, local activists formed the ‘Coca-Cola Samara Committee’ with the aim of shutting down the plant. It took until 2014 to finally succeed in driving them out, marking a rare and hard-fought ‘victory’.

● Local environmental groups in Kerala protested outside the Coca-Cola bottling plant, ultimately succeeding in driving them out after more than a decade. Image credit: kasuga sho@Flickr

III. Government-Subsidised and Protected Sugar

The second-largest ingredient in Coca-Cola is sugar. In the 1890s, global sugarcane cultivation and the refined sugar industry flourished. It was an era of exceptionally low sugar prices and unprecedented abundance, allowing Coca-Cola to secure an ingredient crucial to its early success: cheap sugar. Yet this was not the work of Adam Smith’s so-called “invisible hand.” In reality, throughout the 19th century, the US government maintained protectionist policies for domestic refineries, driving the wholesale price of refined sugar down from 6.2 cents in 1890 to 4.1 cents in 1894. The cost, however, was the brutal exploitation of labour on sugarcane plantations, and the ruin of countless small refineries squeezed out by monopolistic sugar trusts. Ironically, when sugar prices climbed a few years later, Coca-Cola turned on the US government, denouncing it for artificially inflating prices and demanding a return to the previous “free market.”

Volatile sugar prices made Coca-Cola wary of this essential ingredient. Fortunately, a more ideal sweetener emerged: high-fructose corn syrup, derived from another American crop that was producing a surplus—corn. Coca-Cola once again capitalised on this extremely cheap raw material, kept artificially low by government subsidies. In 1985, the company replaced sugar with corn syrup in its US formula. This was a massive production shift, but the company faced no need to sell off factories, plantations, or equipment, simply because it owned none. It merely had to swap sugar suppliers for high-fructose syrup producers. As for the companies and workers subsequently cast aside from the supply chain, the attitude mirrored the reply given by “the father of Coca-Cola,” Woodruff, when he severed ties with Monsanto Chemical Company: “I’m afraid I can’t be of much help.” What unfolded next for Monsanto, as it pivoted from selling saccharin and caffeine to Coca-Cola to distributing toxic chemicals, pesticides, and GM seeds worldwide, is another story altogether.

● The author of The Coca-Cola Empire later published The Seed Empire, which chronicles Monsanto’s corporate history. In 2024, Foodthink partnered with the publisher to co-host a series of discussions.

IV. The Third Cheap Ingredient in Cola – Caffeine

Compared to water and sugar, the amount of caffeine in Coca-Cola is relatively low, yet its invigorating and mildly addictive properties render it essential to the recipe. Early formulations contained not only caffeine but also small quantities of the far more addictive cocaine; both were extracted from coca leaves, which also inspired the brand’s name. With cocaine’s reputation spiralling downwards, coca leaf prices remaining stubbornly high, and market demand for caffeine steadily rising, Coca-Cola was continually scouring the market for cheaper sources of caffeine.

At first, Coca-Cola sourced caffeine extracted from spent tea leaves from Monsanto, before switching to caffeine extracted from cocoa by-products supplied by Maywood Chemical. The raw caffeine market languished under the weight of global conflict and advances in chemical manufacturing. Capitalising on this downturn, Coca-Cola accumulated vast reserves of caffeine at prices below those seen at the turn of the century, swiftly establishing itself as the market’s largest purchaser. This dominant buying position significantly bolstered its negotiating leverage. By way of example, in early 1942, Coca-Cola secured caffeine from Monsanto at $1.61 a pound, whereas its rival Pepsi paid $2.18 for the same measure.

By the latter half of the twentieth century, the rising hidden ecological, economic and biological costs associated with producing and consuming caffeine began to threaten the viability of Coca-Cola’s supply chain. Yet the company quickly navigated out of this predicament, aided ironically by the anti-caffeine fervour of the 1950s. While Coca-Cola bore the brunt of public scorn as the chief purveyor of the substance, the decaffeination movement gathered pace. Consequently, processing plants across the globe were left discarding vast quantities of caffeine as waste, handing Coca-Cola yet another abundant supply. Ironically, the very campaign to rid the public of caffeine drove its production to unprecedented heights, fuelling the company’s steadily climbing profits over the ensuing decades.

V. The Grotesquely Gaunt Resource Predator

When discussing Coca-Cola’s “crimes”, the charge most familiar to the general Western public is undoubtedly its status as “the world’s largest plastic polluter”. According to brand audit data from recent years by the international environmental campaign Break Free From Plastic (BBFP), Coca-Cola has held the top spot on the list of the world’s worst plastic polluters every year since 2018. The 2023 audit findings reveal that Coca-Cola’s total plastic waste far exceeds the combined output of the number two (Nestlé) and number three (Unilever) companies.

● 2023 plastic pollution ranking of companies, published by the environmental group BBFP. Coke is first, Pepsi is fourth.

In truth, Coca-Cola has not always produced such vast quantities of packaging waste. In its early years, it was actually a pioneer in reusable packaging, employing a deposit return scheme to encourage consumers to hand back their glass beverage bottles. This circular approach remains one of the top recommendations from environmental organisations to this day.

Yet, the lure of cutting costs and deflecting responsibility for waste proved far too compelling. Coca-Cola swiftly abandoned environmentally sound reusable glass bottles in favour of single-use metal cans and plastic bottles. Simultaneously, it began shaping public discourse by partnering with others to launch “Keep America Beautiful”. Under the guise of a grassroots environmental initiative, the group lobbied both the public and government officials with the explicit goal of transferring the burden of packaging waste management from beverage manufacturers to citizens: “Environmental protection is everyone’s responsibility.”

In their messaging, plastic pollution is framed as the direct result of consumer littering, completely glossing over the reality that these items were already sealed in single-use packaging before they even reached shoppers. The underlying motive for this shift was straightforward: Coca-Cola needed to reach more remote markets at a significantly lower cost.

● A Coca-Cola delivery representative in 1936 distributing cases of drinks to retail outlets. Photo: Hulton Archive/Getty Images

Despite the beverage industry’s lobbying efforts, clear-eyed environmentalists remain unswayed and continue to point the finger at the true source of pollution—the corporations themselves. Environmental and legislative authorities have also sought to tackle the mounting waste crisis through taxation and statutory penalties. These initiatives have met with fierce resistance from companies such as Coca-Cola, which have threatened the government that “tens of thousands of factory workers will face job losses” and “the entire industry will disappear.”

Yet is the employment dilemma truly intractable? Hardly. When Coca-Cola originally ditched glass bottles to slash costs, it inevitably rendered countless bottle-cleaning and transport workers redundant. Should a refillable packaging system be reinstated, the new roles created to maintain it would surely offset the jobs lost to single-use packaging manufacturing. Were Coca-Cola genuinely committed to the public interest, it would not have left a wake of resource-stripped landscapes across the world.

Recently, Coca-Cola has found itself in the firing line once again, this time over allegations of greenwashing. In early December 2024, the company announced it was scaling back its “voluntary environmental targets.” The revised target aims to incorporate 35% to 40% recycled materials into its packaging by 2035, a drastic drop from the previous ambition of reaching 50% by 2030. A representative for the environmental organisation Oceana stated: “Coca-Cola’s new pledge will have almost no meaningful impact on its overall plastic consumption.”

Whether the value generated by Coca-Cola can genuinely offset the wider costs borne by society remains open to debate.

● In 2012, a New York company launched “Unbottle the World Day”. By collecting and displaying the bottles discarded by a single person over two years, the campaign urged the public and businesses to address the pollution caused by beverage packaging and improve recycling. Coca-Cola, concerned that consumers becoming aware of the volume of plastic waste they produce could damage its sales and brand image, issued a cease-and-desist letter to the organisers, demanding the immediate halt of the campaign.

VII. One of the Main Culprits Behind Obesity

Returning to the beginning of this article, a study in *Nature Medicine* found that in 2020, roughly one in ten new cases of type 2 diabetes and one in thirty new cases of cardiovascular disease globally could be attributed to the consumption of sugary drinks—a burden Coca-Cola certainly bears a significant share of. The book *The Coca-Cola Empire* also notes that a 2004 survey in the *Journal of the American Medical Association* revealed that rising per capita consumption had made high-calorie sweeteners the “single largest source of calories in the American diet” for that year. Even earlier, Coca-Cola had recognised the consumer demand for zero-calorie drinks, substituting sugar with saccharin and cyclamate. However, saccharin, a coal tar derivative, carried a significant carcinogenic risk and was quickly banned by the government. Coca-Cola promptly established a Calorie Control Council to fight the ban, arguing that “such intervention infringes on citizens’ freedom of choice.” A remarkably familiar scene! The obesity tax has proven ineffective once again.

By the 1990s, obesity rates in the US were rising rather than falling, prompting some cities to introduce an “obesity tax” on junk food. Beverage companies retaliated with threats to “withdraw investment in local bottling plants.” In the early 2000s, New York State once again proposed taxes on junk food, and consumer freedom groups backed by Coca-Cola launched lobbying campaigns against the notion that “the government should not dictate what people eat or drink.” Coca-Cola’s public relations strategy perfectly illustrates a Cantonese proverb: “An old bridge may creak, but it still holds”—in other words, old methods are perfectly fine as long as they work.

Yet, no matter how desperately Coca-Cola clings to its legacy, a growing number of people now recognise that sweetened drinks, exemplified by their products, are a primary driver of obesity. Moreover, consumers’ craving for sweetness has long surpassed natural bounds. As one researcher noted: “The sweetness of carbonated drinks sends a message to children that all food should be this sweet.” Even diet drinks marketed as zero-calorie have been shown to increase appetite, disrupt the body’s fundamental self-regulatory mechanisms, and contribute to weight gain. Consequently, in recent years, an increasing number of countries have joined the ranks of those restricting sugary beverages.

● In the beverage health grading systems of both Singapore and Shanghai, Coca-Cola unsurprisingly falls into the least healthy Grade D category. Image credit: YouDiao Review @ Xiaohongshu
As the author observes, for Coca-Cola, even the “sacred, inviolable secret formula” has continually adapted to a changing world; the only constant has been the system and mechanisms through which it generates profit. The bedrock of its relentless profitability lies in a robust supply chain and raw materials that are cheap precisely because they are abundant. In essence, Coca-Cola is a product fundamentally built on resource depletion. Yet, despite the company’s persistent attempts to sidestep the laws of nature, its declining performance, steadily deteriorating brand image, and the precarious health of its consumers all point to the same conclusion: this path of resource extraction is nearing its end.

But Coca-Cola’s future is not humanity’s future. Though we may occasionally harbour the illusion that “capitalists will outlive us,” the moment more consumers recognise the health, environmental, and social costs concealed behind these beverages and choose to cut back on a few bottles of Coke, the corporations will find themselves in a state of perpetual anxiety. Meanwhile, we gain the benefit of stable blood sugar levels.

Notes and References

[1] Lara-Castor, L., O’Hearn, M., Cudhea, F. et al. Burdens of type 2 diabetes and cardiovascular disease attributable to sugar-sweetened beverages in 184 countries. Nat Med (2025). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41591-024-03345-4

[2] Coca-Cola China Official Website [OL].https://www.coca-cola.com/cn/zh

[3] The Coca-Cola Company. Coca-Cola Q3 2024 Earnings Report: Revenue Beats Expectations; CEO Reaffirms Unchanged Long-Term Goals in China [OL].https://www.coca-cola.com/cn/zh/media-center/q3-2024-financial-report,2024-10-23.

[4] 21st Century Business Herald. Coca-Cola’s Sales Slump in China: Pivoting from Still Water to Carbonated Drinks [OL].https://m.21jingji.com/article/20241025/321e2a57981f9c7d1a54b525bee0b791.html,2024-10-25.

[5] Wikipedia. The Coca-Cola Company [OL].https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Coca-Cola_Company,2023.

[6] China Foods Limited [OL].http://www.chinafoodsltd.com/.

[7] AiQiCha – COFCO Coca-Cola Beverages (China) Investment Co., Ltd. [OL].https://aiqicha.baidu.com/company_detail_28672433808726?p_type=2&p_tk=6540HVJ2znYhUzPGqUSHdsgVsFJCkOT7EHJDy3r%2BZqkrjraVucdxs3nJDfbaEaaHhdNoRPA6w5w6Jge5awN9GU91pO%2F1v%2BKZpMZhdMxkFKFvgqc5PWIP0BEbVSeM5QPSXunW1bo8JYr%2Bra2SOAJguOytJh%2B3VRfG5NaGwYNkwe3g4Ck%3D&p_timestamp=1737717947&p_sign=03d1383f7bcdf77b4954fbc74fe3fe22&p_signature=c67845b7ca55bff8937d6114d434aea4&__pc2ps_ab=6540HVJ2znYhUzPGqUSHdsgVsFJCkOT7EHJDy3r%2BZqkrjraVucdxs3nJDfbaEaaHhdNoRPA6w5w6Jge5awN9GU91pO%2F1v%2BKZpMZhdMxkFKFvgqc5PWIP0BEbVSeM5QPSXunW1bo8JYr%2Bra2SOAJguOytJh%2B3VRfG5NaGwYNkwe3g4Ck%3D|1737717947|c67845b7ca55bff8937d6114d434aea4|03d1383f7bcdf77b4954fbc74fe3fe22.

[8] BFFP. The Brand Audit Report 2023 [R]. 2024.https://brandaudit.breakfreefromplastic.org/brand-audit-2023/.

[9] Coca-Cola Retreats from Environmental Commitments; Plastic Pollution Crisis Intensifies [OL]. https://www.cenews.com.cn/news.html?aid=1179912,2024-12-07.

[10] Michael Moss. Salt Sugar Fat: How the Food Giants Hooked Us [M]. CITIC Press Corporation. 2015-11.

[11] Qing Xiaofei. This Generation of Young People Is Ditching “Sugar-Sweetened Drinks” [OL].https://36kr.com/p/2864886416018052,2024-7-16.

Foodthink Author

Doudou

Practitioner of sustainable living, with a passion for researching lifestyles centred on non-consumption.

 

 

 

 

Editor: Tianle