From Brewing to Regional Flavours: 九吋’s Fermentation Journey | Food Talk Vol. 25
This episode of Food Talk features two guests, Mary and Liu Xinzheng, both formally trained in Fermentation Engineering. We sit down with them to discuss how their passion for home-brewing craft beer sparked a broader journey into the world of fermentation.
While studying Fermentation Engineering at university, their love for beer led them to discover that commercial options fell short of their taste preferences. They began brewing their own craft beer, gradually winning over friends and colleagues. This encouragement eventually led them to found their own craft brewery: Nine Inches Craft.
Beyond running their brand, they travel across regions to explore diverse fermentation cultures and meet master fermenters. They scour the country for the finest honey to brew mead, tackle the famously pungent preserved winter melon, and experiment with Guangxi’s pickled snacks (suanye), which can seemingly pickle anything. Different regions nurture distinct fermented flavours, and through these culinary windows, they hope to help more people appreciate the world’s diversity.
Mary shares that during the development of their rice wine, she witnessed the entire process from paddy planting to brewing, giving her a profound appreciation for the ‘joy of harvest’. In her view, whether it is grapes, barley, corn, rice, or Mexican agave, each can naturally ferment into alcohol under its own environmental conditions. This highlights the openness and diversity inherent in fermentation culture.
Through their products and documentation, Mary and Liu Xinzheng strive to raise awareness of fermentation and encourage people to embrace a wider range of fermented foods. While preserving traditional brewing techniques, they integrate the scientific rigour of fermentation engineering, optimising processes to uphold tradition while elevating quality. They have already published their first book on fermentation culture, *Incredible Fermentation & Brewing*, and are currently planning their next volume.
Why are people so drawn to fermented foods? Perhaps after following their fermentation journey, you too will come to understand the extraordinary flavours nature has to offer and share in a universal sense of joy.
Guests
Mary (Ma Junli)
Media and creative professional. Graduated in Fermentation Engineering with sixteen years of experience in fashion, culture, and lifestyle magazine publishing. After leaving traditional media, she actively explored pop-up markets in arts communities and the realisation of art projects. She co-founded Nine Inches Craft in 2015 to explore the allure of fermentation culture. Author of *Incredible Fermentation & Brewing*. Currently conducting field research in Southwest China for her upcoming book on fermentation geography.
Liu Xinzheng
Food fermentation engineer / brewer / photographer. Graduated in Fermentation Engineering and formerly worked at the China National Research Institute of Food and Fermentation Industries, holding the title of Senior Engineer. Co-founded Nine Inches Craft in 2015, continuously developing new products in the brewing sector and exploring the possibilities of fermentation. Co-author of *Incredible Fermentation & Brewing*.
Hosts
Wang Hao
Foodthink editor. A fermentation novice who frequently abandons projects halfway through.
Xiao Chao
Former Foodthink project officer and fermentation enthusiast. Has experimented with kombucha, German sauerkraut, Sichuan pickles, yoghurt, bread, and more.
Timeline
02:52 University-level fermentation engineering focuses largely on large-scale industrial processes. Only through hands-on experimentation did they realise that anyone can give fermentation a try; it’s far from as daunting as it sounds.
04:56 Driven by a love for beer and frustration with what was available on the market, Mary and Liu Xinzhen began brewing their own craft beers. As word spread among friends and fans grew, they naturally decided to formalise it into a brand.
05:51 While industrial fermentation is highly efficient and rapid, it often strips fermented drinks of their nuance and severs them from centuries of tradition.
07:15 By grounding traditional brewing methods in a scientific, research-led approach to standardise fermentation, it may be possible to optimise the process while honouring tradition. Can the empirical knowledge embedded in traditional craftsmanship find a place in industrial fermentation?
13:43 Why do people tend to react to fermented foods in such polarised ways: either embracing them enthusiastically or shunning them entirely?
16:21 What is it about fermented beverages that captivates us? To develop their rice wine, Mary travelled to the countryside to harvest the grain, witnessing its full maturation cycle and connecting deeply with the land. The hands-on process of turning it into wine naturally evokes a profound sense of ‘harvest joy’.
19:07 Tea, coffee, and alcoholic drinks all rely on fermentation. The ability to personally witness and guide the transformation from raw ingredient to finished product is likely the very charm that draws people to craft them by hand.
19:49 Crafting fermented foods with a personal touch is akin to creating a work of art.
23:49 Fermentation knows no borders. Whether it’s grapes, barley, maize, rice, or Mexican agave, communities across the world will naturally turn local ingredients into fermented drinks.
33:43 Fermentation embodies biodiversity, microbial variety, and a rich tapestry of flavours.
34:34 Beyond production, Mary and Liu Xinzhen continue to map the geography of fermentation, exploring the cultures behind regional specialties. Their goal is to foster a deeper understanding of the process, encourage the consumption of diverse fermented foods, and ensure these ‘intangible cultural heritages’ continue to thrive.
40:23 Submerge fresh vegetables and a few simple ingredients in water, and they naturally transform into pickles. This alchemical experience likely mirrors what our earliest ancestors felt when they first began fermenting food. The joy of harvest and the impulse to share are universal human experiences, and it is precisely this that captures the magic of fermentation.
41:47 Building a fermentation brand has connected them with many loyal customers, continually reminding them of the profound satisfaction of being appreciated. This is the quiet joy of craftsmanship, and the very reason they keep at it.
48:31 Onward with their culinary explorations: sourcing China’s finest honey to brew mead, tackling Ningbo’s stinky winter melon (which Mary dubs the ‘pinnacle of pungency’), and sampling Guangxi’s ‘soak-anything’ suanye. It’s all about stepping out into the world to experiment, and using food as a window to understand it.
Field notes I: Nodeng ham needs time to mature. Given the chance, microorganisms transform the meat into a deeply savoury flavour.
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Production team for this episode
Coordination & Production: Xiao Jing
Cover Art: Wan Lin
Music: Ba Nong
Editor: Wang Hao
Contact email: xiaojing@foodthink.cn