So Mozzarella and Whey Cheese Are Cousins? Complete Video & Illustrated Step-by-Step Guide

Foodthink Says

Cheese is a highly traditional fermented food. Before the Industrial Revolution enabled mass production, the vast majority of cheese was handmade on farms and by small-scale producers. Its flavours were closely tied to the season, climate, and methods used to produce the raw milk, and the distinctive techniques of individual cheese makers gave rise to a diverse and subtle range of profiles.

Modern food safety standards generally consider handmade fermented foods to carry health risks, viewing standardised factory fermentation using single bacterial strains as the only safe option. However, before accepting this narrative, we should recognise that cheese fermentation is, above all, a gift of nature. The initial microbial environment for cheesemaking comes from the diverse bacteria present in raw milk; the rennet that causes the milk to coagulate is derived from the stomachs of ruminants; and in certain regions, the leather bags and wooden casks used to store raw milk also contributed beneficial cultures to the fermentation process.

Working together, these beneficial microbes dramatically alter the milk’s characteristics and taste, extending the shelf life of dairy products while boosting their nutritional value and flavour. Research cited by Sandor Katz in *The Art of Fermentation* shows that traditional fermented dairy relies on a highly diverse microbial ecosystem. Consequently, their levels of thiamine (vitamin B1), riboflavin (vitamin B2), vitamin B6, and folate are significantly higher than those found in the mass-produced, single-culture Lacto dairy products of the era.

So, why not try making your own cheese by hand and experience the joy and deliciousness of fermentation? In this issue of *Alchemy of Food*, we have invited Liu Yang, founder of Bule Handmade Cheese, to demonstrate how to make two Italian-style handcrafted cheeses at home using traditional methods: mozzarella and ricotta.

Both cheeses we are making today are fresh cheeses—think of them as the light and refreshing side of the cheese world, and they are perfectly straightforward to prepare at home.

High temperatures denature milk proteins, which is why commercially available UHT milk cannot be coagulated directly with rennet. It is essential to choose fresh milk pasteurised at 72°C. Fresh milk that retains its natural biological activity simply outperforms UHT in both taste and nutrition.

Q Why is most commercially available milk UHT-treated?

Sandor Katz: Healthy raw milk requires healthy dairy animals, and healthy dairy animals in turn need sufficient land to graze. As we all know, the dairy industry excels at mass-producing cheap milk. To achieve this, the amount of land allocated to each animal is reduced to a minimum. Furthermore, the industry employs additional measures, such as administering growth hormones to cows to stimulate milk production. Unfortunately, while this boosts yield, it comes at the expense of quality and safety. If modern dairy production lines were to suddenly halt their sterilisation procedures, the result would undoubtedly be a severe crisis. (Excerpted from the dairy fermentation chapter of *The Art of Fermentation*)

Once you have the following equipment ready, you can begin:

Five litres of fresh milk will yield approximately 500 g of mozzarella and around 300 g of ricotta. Feel free to adjust the quantities according to this ratio.

We begin by warming the milk to around 35°C. After adding the lactic acid bacteria, let it rest for about 30 minutes.

Add a few drops of rennet, stir quickly, and then leave to stand for another half hour. At this stage, the whey will begin to separate from the milk.

Give it a quick stir, then use a utensil to steady the mass. After leaving it to rest for an hour, you will find that the liquid milk has set into a consistency akin to silken tofu. At this point, you can use a cheese knife to cut the fresh curds into cubes, lift them out, and transfer them to a mould to drain.

You can also use cheesecloth or a strainer in place of a mould.

If you have pH test strips, you can check the acidity; a reading of 5.2 is the ideal level. This will yield mozzarella that is tender, stretchy and perfectly elastic.

Once the pH reaches the desired level, submerge the curds in water at around 70°C. Leave them until they soften and become pliable, then repeatedly fold and stretch the mass until you can roll it into smooth, round balls. Finally, chill them in cold water to set.

Ricotta, the Italian name for whey cheese, derives from the term ‘recook’, meaning to cook again. As the name suggests, it is made by re-heating whey.

Let’s move on to heating the leftover whey from the mozzarella.

When the whey reaches around 40°C, add salt at a ratio of 7g per litre.

Continue heating to 80–90°C. You will soon see the whey proteins coagulate into soft, wispy curds floating on the surface. Once this happens, you can turn off the heat.

Let it rest for about 15 minutes. Use a sieve to scoop out the floating curds and place them in a muslin bag to drain. After roughly 20 minutes, your light, sweet and delicious ricotta will be ready.

These two distinct cheeses can be made almost simultaneously. If the mozzarella isn’t eaten straight away, it will continue to ferment, becoming sourer and softer. Storing it in brine or olive oil will extend its shelf life.

Compared to mozzarella, ricotta has a much shorter shelf life and is best consumed within three days.

Spread fresh ricotta on bread with a drizzle of honey, and let your homemade fermented treat brighten your day!

The Fermentation Bible
Author: Sandor Katz (US)
Planning: Hu’an Culture
Publisher: CITIC Press Group
Translator: Wang Binghui
Published: 20 April 2020

Reading Group Schedule

– Reading Schedule –

November 2023

– First Discussion –

1 November (Wednesday) 19:00–20:30

Watch the recording on WeChat Channels

Guests: Sun Shan, Zhou Wanqing

– Second Discussion / Online –

8 November (Wednesday) 19:00–20:30

Live stream on WeChat Channels

Guests: Xu Xijing, Lin Fengyang

– Third Discussion / Online –

15 November (Wednesday) 19:00–20:30

Live stream on WeChat Channels

Guest: Ma Junli

– Fourth Discussion / Online & In-person – 

25 November (Saturday) 15:00–16:30

No. 86 Jianguo Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing

SKP-S 2F SKP RENDEZ-VOUS

Guests: Shuyu, Jing Yan

Set a reminder for all the above sessions on the Foodthink WeChat Channels account.

About the Fermentation Lifestyle Festival

Civilisations across mountains, plains and coastlines have independently turned to fermentation as a way to preserve food and enhance their diets. Fermented foods bring people closer together, and in an era of uniform industrial products and ready meals, they help us reclaim the freedom to craft food that is distinctly personal and locally made.

On 22 October, the Fermentation Lifestyle Festival, co-hosted by Foodthink and the Beijing Organic Farmers’ Market, was held to great success. Beyond the market held on 22 October, the festival will feature a series of exciting events running until the end of December: Foodthink will release a new episode of *The Alchemy of Food* each week, providing step-by-step video and illustrated guides for making ten fermented foods, including kombucha, cheese, and pickled chillies. In November, we partnered with Lakeshore Culture to launch a reading group for *The Bible of Fermentation*, inviting fermentation experts from around the world to explore the book alongside you and share in the joy of fermentation.

Over the coming two months, our festival co-creators will also host a wide range of fermentation-themed events at their own restaurants, cafés, bookshops and more, delving into the art of fermentation together. For full details, please watch this space for Foodthink’s upcoming event roundups. This autumn and winter, let’s awaken our lives through fermentation!

Editor: The Foodthink Team