Returning Home to Farm: Cultivate Your Mindset Before the Land

Foodthink says

Since returning home in 2013 to establish Chengdu’s Liangliang Farm, Tang Liang’s work has been a constant source of inspiration for those concerned with food and farming. In 2018, his The Ledger and Lifestyle of a Family Farm offered a candid answer to the question, “How does one survive and live well in agriculture?” drawing on six years of rural life.

Unlike large commercial operations or what is often termed “farming by the elderly,” Liangliang Farm achieves viable management through a moderate scale and the careful organisation of family labour. More importantly, it creatively weaves together family and community, livelihood and lifestyle, and humanity and nature, forging a way of life distinct from the urban experience. As peasant studies scholar Jan Douwe van der Ploeg notes in *The New Peasantry*, “the whole meaning of agriculture lies in the active creation of things, resources, relations and symbols.”

Has the farm’s per capita income continued to rise steadily in recent years? Why is it necessary to “cultivate the heart” before you even till the soil? When facing extreme heat or pandemic disruptions, what challenges do the lifestyle and production methods of small family farms encounter, and what resilience do they reveal? How should they engage with the community’s public sphere? What values and deeper purpose are “new farmers” seeking in their lives?

Reflecting on the past five years, Tang Liang will bring a lens more attuned to the fullness of life to this Foodthink sharing session, seeking to address a pressing question: Amidst the relentless tide of urbanisation, do the countryside and agriculture still hold the potential to weave together livelihood, social bonds, and a sense of purpose?

This piece is divided into four sections, beginning with “family” and “farm”, extending into “community”, and reflecting on the “value” of life. It will be presented across two parts.

●Tang Liang at the sharing session, with the citrus fruits he grew himself and brought from his farm on the table.

I. Family

I. Growing Up: The Reunion Dream of the First Generation of Left-Behind Children

I was born in 1986 in Niujiao Village, Fuxing Town, Jintang County, Chengdu, Sichuan. After graduating in Biological Sciences from Southwest University in 2008, I worked in Chongqing for about three years. I resigned in 2011, went on to intern at Little Donkey Citizens’ Farm and Sharing Harvest Farm, and in early 2013 returned from Beijing to my hometown to start running a farm.

During my own upbringing, my family gradually scattered, and the countryside fell into increasing decline.

My grandfather passed away early; my eldest and youngest uncles remained unmarried due to disabilities. To earn school fees for us children, my parents went to Guangdong to work one after the other, leaving my younger brother and me as left-behind children. Later, my mother returned home following surgery. At that time, I wondered: why must parents move to the city just to make a living? How could we possibly sustain ourselves in the countryside?

In 2012, after my brother and sister-in-law had their first child while working away from home, they sent the baby back to the village for my mother, who was then running a tea house in town, to look after. During that period, my youngest uncle wandered away from home until 2013. At our most sparsely populated times, even by the Chinese New Year, the house would hold only my eldest uncle. The old houses built by our grandparents and parents had fallen into disrepair; cracks from the 2008 earthquake remained unrepaired; in the village, waste was left to accumulate, and empty pesticide and herbicide bottles were scattered everywhere…

● The old house, built by grandparents and parents, has long fallen into disrepair, its walls holding the loneliness of the children and elders left behind to live there.

Having experienced life as a left-behind child and witnessed the countryside in such a state, my original motivation for returning home can be summed up as: bringing rural families together, practising eco-conscious farming, building ecological communities, and exploring a new rural life in tune with the fundamental nature of living.

After graduation, I took a job related to my field. The salary was reasonable, but I found little sense of deeper purpose in it. Once I had paid off my student loans and put aside a modest savings, the idea of returning home began to take shape. I resigned and went to work as an intern at a farm. During that time, I deepened my understanding of ecological agriculture, came to terms with the difficulties of starting a business, and tempered my expectations. Two years later, I found my way back to Niujiao Village.

● Tang Liang’s extended family when he first returned home.

II. Laying the foundations: Cultivating the heart before tending the land

It took three years to truly reunite the family.

During the first year, my eldest and youngest uncles and I trialled ecological farming on our family’s contracted land. By the second year, I had rented additional plots, expanding the holding to over 20 mu (around 1.3 hectares), while my mother persuaded my father and my brother’s family to remain in our hometown. In the third year, we built a new house large enough for the entire extended family, and my mother closed her tea house to return home and manage the household.

● The extended family of eleven who now live on the farm.

Yet, beyond cultivation and farm management, the greater challenge of returning home to start a business lies in the toll of internal family dynamics. Every household has its own difficulties, and coming back means old tensions can quickly resurface and complicate matters. In our case, the misunderstandings and friction between my parents and me, between my parents themselves, and between my father and my youngest uncle all required sustained effort to gradually ease.

● Through Tang Liang’s efforts, his parents gradually came to understand his work better, as well as each other.

To begin with, from my parents’ perspective, they had originally hoped we would move to the city. Instead, we returned to the countryside to farm—without using pesticides or chemical fertilisers—which, in their eyes, meant I had ‘gone completely off the rails after all that education’. For their generation, leaving home for migrant work was a necessity, driven by the belief that a decent life was simply unattainable in the villages. Rural life and agriculture remained a source of deep frustration for them. (My father, in particular, would chide me with ‘Why did you ever come back to the countryside?’ whenever he felt even slightly disconcerted.) To help them work through this reluctance, I made a point of creating opportunities for them to converse with others whenever I sold produce at the market or hosted tours at the farm. Validation from outsiders proved far more effective than my own explanations or persuasion. I also took them to various events and training sessions, and visited other farms. From initially being too nervous to speak on stage, they gradually opened up, came to realise that agriculture could actually be done this way, and found a renewed sense of confidence in their identity as farmers.

● With Tang Liang’s encouragement, the family participated in discussions and hosted visitors, gradually moving from their initial lack of understanding to a renewed appreciation for and confidence in agriculture.

At first, I did not understand why my parents spent their time playing mahjong.Looking back, at their age, they have little interest in lofty spiritual pursuits. Working in the morning and playing cards in the afternoon serves as their inner life. Some things may seem straightforward to you, but from their perspective, they are not. In moments like these, creating antagonism will not resolve anything, and lecturing them at length only backfires.

Secondly, although we all lived under the same roof, there was once a profound lack of emotional exchange among us. Domestic life and daily labour are indispensable components of a family farm; therefore, the growth of crops in the fields and the emotional well-being of family members must be given equal attention.

Once, I wanted to take my parents, who were estranged, to a wellness retreat, but neither was willing to go with the other. I spoke to them separately, and after much patient persuasion, they finally agreed to attend. Although they gave each other the cold shoulder on the journey, within a few days the couple were chatting and laughing together. My father and my younger uncle used to argue the moment they saw one another; a single glance was enough to make them slam down chopsticks and smash bowls. After my younger uncle returned home, tensions easily flared up again. On one occasion, they both felt deeply aggrieved and broke down in tears. I held my younger uncle as he wept, allowing him to gradually release his pent-up emotions. This kind of “emotional labour” serves as the lubricant that eases and nurtures family relationships.

● Tang Liang’s older and younger uncles. After working through old tensions, each of them found their own way to comfortably belong within the wider family.

For a while, my partner Lizi and I were each wholly absorbed in our duties to the farm and the local community. Though we were constantly in each other’s company, we hardly spoke. Eventually, we decided to change our pace. We realised we couldn’t keep ourselves so relentlessly busy; we needed to carve out time for ourselves and make space within our relationship to truly talk. Once that connection was restored, we found ourselves in a much better headspace, which naturally rippled out to the children and everyone else in the house. How we tackle everyday issues can completely shift the mood at home. A disagreement might erupt over something as minor as washing up, but if handled thoughtfully, it can instead become a moment that strengthens the bond between us all.

● Our son Youyou, my wife Lizi, and Tang Liang on our farm (left); the children have grown up wonderfully familiar with the village animals.

When soil particles press together in disarray, the ground becomes compacted. Soil can only sustain healthier plants and yield better food once it forms a crumb structure and is in a healthy state. Our families need a ‘crumb structure’ too: if the individuals within them lack appropriate connections and remain isolated and atomised, the home environment becomes rigid and stifling. Only with the right emotional ties can a family break through its ‘compaction’ and thrive with vitality and warmth.

● Schematic diagram of soil aggregate structure. Healthy soil depends on proper bonding between particles; similarly, people need connections with one another to avoid becoming ‘compacted’.

Ultimately, changing people’s mindsets and habits can only be done by leading by example and gradually influencing your family. After all, a household is not a company; you cannot simply give orders or hand out fines.When we first started sorting waste, we faced widespread opposition at home, particularly from my father. I took the initiative, sometimes even bringing food scraps from outside to compost at home. Slowly, others began to join in. After about six months, I noticed my father had started sorting waste too. Even when my parents went out to play mahjong, they would conveniently collect sugarcane pith and peel on their way back.

● Waste sorting and organic waste cycling at the farm.
A common pitfall for many ecological farmers returning to their home villages is “family friction”, where the relentless drain on everyone’s energy and patience eventually becomes unbearable, leaving them with no choice but to pack up and leave. How do we turn this depletion into a healthier dynamic? People too often argue from their own standpoint: “I’m clearly doing this for the family’s benefit, so why can’t they see it?” With such a rigid attitude, meaningful conversation is impossible. We (particularly the main family members) each need to “turn inwards”, dissolving this tension through self-reflection and personal adjustment.

II. The Farm

I. Operations and Production: People and Work in the Fields

People often ask how much capital is needed to set up an ecological farm. At the time, our income was modest; we had just 30,000 yuan to work with. Most of it was directed towards basic infrastructure: constructing livestock enclosures, building access tracks, renovating buildings, running internet cables, and installing a biogas digester. We did all of this ourselves. We did bring in two craftsmen to ‘straighten up’ a leaning old pig pen so we could keep using it, which let us make the most of existing infrastructure rather than burning through our entire budget at once. This kind of low-cost management approach is particularly crucial in the early stages. Later on, the government also stepped in with some infrastructure support, providing items such as road upgrades, biogas facilities, drip irrigation systems, and drones.

● In the early days of setting up the farm, we renovated the pig pens, repaired the biogas digester, and constructed an ecological dry toilet.

Our approach to crop selection might best be described as a ‘pyramid production structure’: at the apex sit cash crops grown primarily for sale to generate monetary income, whilst the base comprises various produce for household consumption, ensuring self-sufficiency and significantly reducing the cost of living.During the first year, I experimented with small-scale plantings of diverse crops, selling them via online channels. By the second year, I selected Xiaohuang ginger and chilli peppers as our core products, chosen for their ease of storage and processing. Gradually building our distribution channels, we established stable supply arrangements with local community shops, traditional Chinese medicine clinics, and similar institutions, ultimately using ‘order-based production’ to determine our planting scale.

● Little yellow ginger and a variety of vegetables and fruit cultivated on the farm; a third of the harvest is reserved for the farm’s own consumption.

The farm cultivates around 100 different varieties, though we have never kept a precise count. Roughly a third of the total yield is kept within our immediate circle—consumed by our family and the visitors who stay with us—creating a local cycle. Another third is distributed through various partner platforms, while the final third is sold via the farm’s WeChat shop.

● Approximate planting plan for the farm in 2022 (areas measured in mu); this does not include green manure crops, fallow plots, residential buildings, animal enclosures, orchards, roads or ponds.

Our income saw steady growth in the opening years. As operations stabilised, annual gross output settled at between 300,000 and 400,000 yuan, with net income nearing 200,000 yuan. 2023 proved to be an atypical year. Following crop shortfalls caused by the extreme heat and drought in 2022, revenue from our produce fell noticeably. In addition, the farm undertook substantial infrastructure development in late 2022, leading to higher depreciation on fixed assets in 2023 than in previous years. Consequently, overall income for that year dropped considerably.

● Income and expenditure for the farm from 2013 to 2023 (revenue in the ‘2023+’ column includes a 100,000 yuan government grant subsidising the farm’s 2022 infrastructure projects)

The farm’s workforce is primarily family members, though we occasionally bring in neighbouring villagers to lend a hand during busy periods. We currently have six full-time staff members (excluding my older and younger paternal uncles). In terms of full-time equivalents, about three are dedicated to field production, while the remaining three handle logistics, administration, and other operational duties.

Drawing on each family member’s strengths, we have gradually settled into a stable division of labour. My father focuses on frontline fieldwork, while my brother manages production and operates the machinery. My sister-in-law assists him, and my mother works alongside my father in the fields; both women also help with behind-the-scenes tasks. My wife handles farm design, oversees the children’s education, looks after the farm’s landscaping, and leads our cultural and educational pursuits. My older uncle helps with weeding, and my younger uncle feeds the animals and sweeps. Though they are older and enjoying their years, they still pitch in where they can, finding a comfortable rhythm that allows them to contribute and stay integrated into family life. I take care of everything else, including overall farm planning and operations, skills development, production trials, and external sales.

● Family members working in the fields, each carrying out their respective duties.
Within the extended family, we distribute income using a work-point system. Everyone controls their own earnings, and each nuclear family remains financially independent, with couples free to coordinate between themselves. Younger members have higher outgoings, so they are allocated a slightly larger share.

The farm’s income is modest, but we harbour no ambitions to scale up or capture market share. From a commercial standpoint, pursuing size and comprehensiveness would require heavy capital investment. Should sales dip, we would face serious cash-flow pressures. By aligning production with actual demand, we can mitigate potential risks. Regarding labour, keeping the workload within the family’s capacity allows for much greater flexibility in how we organise the farm’s schedule.As for the broader significance of agriculture, I recognise that farming is not a path to great wealth. Rather than striving to scale up and dominate, my priority is on cultivating a farm and a family life that are more beautiful and vibrant.

2. Hands in the Soil: Engaging Directly with Nature

When we speak of “building a family enterprise”, the “family” we refer to extends beyond the human household to include the land—the home of other creatures.

Our local soil is a yellow clay, far from ideal, and requires slow, patient cultivation to improve. At times, we tend to focus on how to produce more, cut costs, and optimise management, viewing things primarily through an economic lens. Yet, when you take the time to quiet your mind and settle in, you begin to sense your connection to the earth. The soil is a habitat for microorganisms; farming is an entirely different endeavour depending on whether they are present or not. It is also a home for insects.

● Beyond growing crops, fruit and vegetables, the farm is also a home for all manner of little creatures.

Agricultural work demands constant attention to climatic conditions. Over recent years, the number of days with extreme heat has been steadily rising. A severe drought struck in 2022; in areas without shade netting, the ginger plants withered and died, and watering only exacerbated the problem. Many farmers lost their entire harvest, and our yield of small yellow ginger was halved, which took a heavy toll on our 2023 income. While average temperatures in 2023 were a degree higher than usual, there were no prolonged, concentrated spells of heat and drought. For this reason, we have spent recent years discussing how to lessen the impact of climate change, bringing greater consideration into our farming practices. Over the next year or two, we intend to focus on steadily rebuilding our reserves and trimming external costs. Provided our foundations are sound and our internal operations remain robust, we will have a much wider buffer to absorb external fluctuations.

● Extreme heat swept through Chengdu in 2022, and drought conditions caused crops on the farm to wither.
After over a decade of working the land, I have slowly come to appreciate that what we choose to sow is inextricably linked to the local soil and climate. Finding the rhythm that aligns with them fosters a profound sense of “harmony between humanity and nature”.

3. Farming and Reading: Agriculture as a Way of Life

In the past, farming was widely regarded as backbreaking and monotonous. Yet when it becomes more than just a means of making a living, transforming into a way of life, one can begin to appreciate the rhythm of the seasons and the quiet aesthetics of rural existence.

● Family members working amongst the flowers—the ‘garden-style farm’ helps keep spirits high whilst tending to the work.

On one hand, we vary our working settings. For example, we grow flowers in the fields (which also aids ecology and pest control), allowing us to work as if we were tending a garden—this quietly influences our frame of mind. On the other hand, farming does not consume our entire lives. We hold family meetings and farm discussions, sometimes focusing on management and technique, sometimes on daily living, and occasionally reading classic texts together. During these family meetings, we share recent struggles, uncertainties, and our current state of mind, fostering deeper mutual understanding. We also seek out learning and activities beyond the farm. My younger brother, who had always regretted leaving secondary school early, found the chance to enrol in a higher education course in agricultural machinery whilst managing the farm’s operations. On another occasion, our family of seven travelled to Shanxi; the children joined a rural summer camp whilst the parents attended a wellbeing retreat. We deliberately create such opportunities so that everyone can cultivate a sense of growth in their own lives.

● Tang Liang’s younger brother is preparing seedlings, and the two children naturally run over to help.
● The family makes tofu together, gaining firsthand insight into the food-making process.
● Lizi reads classic texts aloud whilst the children sit nearby listening, occasionally joining in for a line or two.

Compiled: Anael

Editor: ZX