Foodthink has hosted several reading groups focused on fermentation. During the process of selecting books, we noticed something: while fermentation culture is booming among foodie circles abroad, why hasn’t it taken off in China? This is a sentiment shared by the publishing professionals featured in this article: China possesses such a rich heritage of fermentation crafts and culture that they deserve far more visibility and attention.
On 22nd October, at the “Fermentation Awakening Life Festival” themed market in Beijing, Foodthink invited Jing Yan, an editor from Shoreline Culture (the publisher of the Chinese edition of *The Fermentation Bible*), alongside Liu Xinzheng and Mary, authors of *The Incredible Art of Fermentation*, to take part in a conversation.
Using several books on fermentation as a springboard, we discussed the place of fermented foods in modern society and our personal lives:
What challenges do traditional fermentation techniques face today? In the era of modern industrial production, how can these traditional crafts be preserved? And how can traditional fermented foods be better integrated into the consumer market?
What role can fermentation—a technique that seems ancient and slow—play in the lives of modern people? Why are so many people obsessed with the experience of fermenting at home? How does fermentation allow us to feel a connection with nature?
Being close to nature, taking a hands-on approach, embracing uncertainty, and appreciating complexity and diversity… fermentation represents the kind of life we aspire to.
● The conversation scene; from left to right: Jing Yan, Liu Xinzheng, Mary, and the moderator, Xiao Chao.Xiao Chao: I’d like to ask the guests: could you tell us about some of the fermentation artisans you’ve encountered through your publishing work or your professional experience with fermentation?Liu Xinzheng: We have met many traditional fermentation artisans and found that some traditional techniques are indeed slowly being lost. For instance, in the Tibetan regions, highland barley wine is gradually ceasing to use traditional starters. With the continuous progress of science and technology, brewers hope to utilise advanced techniques to improve production efficiency. However, the introduction of science and technology into traditional fermentation is a double-edged sword. In some areas, people have switched to eating wheat, and the area planted with highland barley is shrinking as it is replaced by cash crops such as celtuce; as a result, highland barley wine is drifting further and further away from daily life. Mary: To give another example of an artisan: in the Lugu Lake region, there is a very traditional fermented wine called Surima wine. It requires climbing to altitudes above 3,000 metres to collect a specific herb to make the starter. The difficulty of collection and the progress of technology mean that commercial starters are slowly replacing traditional herbal ones.
In reality, Surima wine has no standardised production specifications; even the name ‘Surima’ has no uniform spelling. Many tourists visiting Lugu Lake find it almost impossible to buy this wine. Why? Because those who make it produce it for their own relatives and friends. Without buyers, a healthy chain of production and consumption fails to form, and as society evolves, fewer and fewer people will make it.
If more organisations could strengthen public awareness and guidance—letting people know that fermented foods are beneficial, not only for health but also for sustainability and cultural heritage—more people would consume fermented foods, and more fermentation artisans would be encouraged to persist in their craft.
● Surima wine; traditional ingredients include highland barley, glutinous rice, tartary buckwheat, maize, barley, and highland red rice. Image: Nine-Inch Brewing
Jing Yan: Many traditional fermentation artisans are humble people; they can feel overwhelmed by the complexities of a fully-fledged commercial market. Some might wonder, “The wine I brew tastes wonderful, so why is no one interested in it?” These are areas that commercial forces often fail to reach. Consequently, those who care about the craft feel that the government may be the only entity capable of preserving these traditions. Publishing houses and cultural organisations can also help disseminate the culture of fermentation to the general public through books and promotional materials. In this sense, “raising one’s voice” is crucial.
Liu Xinzheng: Furthermore, our consumption habits are evolving. Historically, the mainstay for Chinese people was yellow wine, followed later by *baijiu*. Roughly a century ago, missionaries introduced French Muscat grapes to Cizhong in Yunnan—a small settlement along the Lancang River—and that was when the locals first began producing wine.
Now that a habit of consuming domestic wine has been established, companies are able to produce a wider variety of wine products. Should new types of fermented products be introduced, they will require visionary individuals to drive those consumption trends. While our country now employs “Intangible Cultural Heritage” status to protect traditional artisans, this form of protection alone may not suffice; without a dedicated consumer base, mere preservation lacks the market viability and room for growth needed to truly thrive.
● The production process of century eggs and pickled fish from a Dong village, filmed in the documentary *The Journey of Fermentation* featuring Sandor Katz, author of *The Art of Fermentation*. Source: *The Journey of Fermentation* documentaryXiao Chao: Lake Shore Culture mainly plans and produces boutique, niche titles. Why did you decide to publish *The Art of Fermentation*?Jing Yan: Within the publishing industry, we (Lake Shore Culture) are something of an “outlier”. Alongside mainstream titles, we also publish more specialised works. Over a decade ago, while working as a commissioning editor, I published *Cooking, Cuisine and Class* by the renowned British anthropologist Jack Goody—a work that examines social change through the lens of food culture. Since then, we have focused on works that highlight social issues from a culinary perspective.
Prior to *The Art of Fermentation*, we were working on alcohol-related publications, such as *The Whisky Encyclopedia*, which led us to a broader interest in the field of fermentation. We noticed a lack of professional literature on the subject and that it remained a gap in the mainland Chinese publishing market. As *The Art of Fermentation* had won the prestigious James Beard Foundation Award, we decided to publish it.
Even today, fermentation remains a very niche subject in China. At the time, our expectations for the book weren’t particularly high; we simply hoped that perhaps ten years later, someone would stumble upon it in a library or on an old bookshelf and discover the cutting-edge content we had introduced. However, attending this event has shown me that there are like-minded enthusiasts interested in this topic. It seems *The Art of Fermentation* is no longer such a solitary publication.
*The Art of Fermentation*Xiao Chao: Mary, how did you happen to come across this book?Mary: During a business trip in 2015, I came across the Taiwanese edition of *The Fermentation Bible*. I studied fermentation engineering, focusing primarily on production methods for large-scale industrial fermentation. Many of my friends weren’t familiar with the subject; some even asked, ‘Is fermentation engineering just about learning how to make steamed buns?’ Moreover, the methods used in factories aren’t applicable to home life. But reading that book made me realise that fermentation is actually very close to our daily lives, and even closer to the lives of us Chinese people—it *is* your life, something you can easily and regularly do at home. From then on, I began experimenting with everyday fermentation, such as developing and brewing beer, gradually building up my knowledge and experience. Through constant experimentation, I discovered that fermentation is intimately linked to daily life, and that it is a sustainable practice with deep cultural significance.
*The Incredible Art of Fermentation and Brewing*Xiao Chao: Both of you have backgrounds in fermentation engineering, Mary was previously in the media, and Teacher Liu is an amateur photography enthusiast. It seems only natural that you would produce *The Incredible Art of Fermentation and Brewing*. But was there a particular catalyst or moment of inspiration that made you want to create such a book?Mary: While on a business trip to Japan, we noticed an entire section in Tsutaya Books dedicated solely to books on fermentation. In truth, every province in China has a wealth of fermented foods, yet there is a dearth of publications introducing them. At that moment, I thought: why not create a book ourselves that focuses on fermented foods from across China? Those familiar with fermentation know that it is a time-consuming process, standing in stark contrast to today’s fast-paced, efficiency-driven lifestyle. In many parts of Guizhou, Yunnan, and Sichuan, the number of people making traditional fermented foods is dwindling as lifestyles change. Before publishing the book, we spent over half a year conducting field research, and during every trip, I felt the urgency of documenting and passing down this heritage. I believe that whether as makers or communicators, we should do our utmost to keep the ’embers’ alive, so that the flavours, nutritional value, and cultural significance of fermentation can be preserved.
But I also firmly believe that culture only truly becomes culture when it connects with people’s daily lives. I believe that only when ordinary people not only consume fermented foods but actually make them, will these traditions truly be able to endure.
● Various homemade salted fish and cured meats during the intervals of the winter lockdowns in 2022. Preparing food is one of the few comforts people find during turbulent times. Photo: XiaoshuJing Yan: Mary makes a very good point. Because industrialised food has developed so rapidly, it is hard to imagine traditional fermentation crafts appearing on supermarket shelves. Although e-commerce platforms seem convenient, there are some traditional fermented foods that you simply cannot buy, no matter how much you are willing to pay. With commercial competition moving so fast, traditional crafts are too easily overlooked, which is a profound shame. The ideal scenario, of course, would be to preserve these valuable traditional techniques while still benefiting from industrial, mass-produced food.Xiao Chao: *The Fermentation Bible* consists of two parts, *The Magician of Nature* and *The Alchemy of Food*. These titles are very apt and striking; how did you come up with them?Jing Yan: The book has relatively low public awareness, so we revised the copywriting many times. The public’s impression of fermentation is mostly limited to “soy sauce”, “brewing”, and “pickles”, so we wanted to use a few evocative words to reawaken people’s understanding of the process. When a radish becomes a bowl of preserved radish, it looks nothing like the raw vegetable; it is like alchemy, refining a piece of gold from a pile of ore. It reflects how much we cherish the art of fermentation.Xiao Chao: *The Incredible Art of Fermentation and Brewing* is also a very interesting title.Mary: Because fermentation really is incredible. Whether it is “alchemy” or “incredible”, both terms summarise the nature of fermentation. Through the process of fermentation, the original state of food is transformed, and its form, flavour, and storage potential change significantly. This transformation brings surprises and more possibilities, something I believe anyone who has tried making fermented foods can feel. In the end, fermentation might turn out perfectly, or it might go wrong, but either way, it is “incredible”.
Liu Xinzheng: Fermentation deepens the form of food and expands the breadth and depth of its flavour, unlocking more possibilities. If you want to make a wine, you can treat it as a medium—much like writing poetry or painting—to express your ideas; it is a fascinating process. Everyone can try their hand at it through *The Incredible Art of Fermentation and Brewing* and experience this “incredible” process for themselves.
● Bolstered by ‘Jianggang’ (sauce jar) culture, Shaoxing cuisine gradually developed its own unique set of techniques for brewing sauces and preparing pickled vegetables—creating the distinct ‘sauce-cured’ flavour profile. Image: Nine-inch CraftXiao Chao: There is a prevailing view these days that people should avoid fermenting food at home, as certain factors are impossible to control and it can be potentially dangerous. How do you all view this perspective?Jingyan: Fermentation is a truly magical transformation, and one that has an unpredictable side; the conditions for controlling various variables, such as temperature and humidity, are never quite the same. In that sense, fermentation is like creating a piece of art—there are aspects that align with your expectations and others that are entirely unexpected, sometimes yielding even more novel flavours. So, in certain respects, fermentation is beyond our control and can even be daunting, yet this is precisely what makes the process so surprising. If fermentation is the ‘magician of nature’, its magic doesn’t just appear the moment the process is complete; it is the gift of the unexpected. We aren’t just controlling the fermentation; we are learning from nature through the process. Katz’s writing feels intimate; if you have had similar experiences, you can feel the charm in the stories he tells. Some brewers believe that there is something soulful within the craft of brewing. This serves as a starting point for rethinking our relationship with nature; we do not merely extract from the natural world, but through our coexistence with it, we find opportunities for reflection.
Mary: Jingyan makes a very good point. Fermentation teaches us how to coexist with nature because it isn’t something invented by modern humans. In ancient times, our ancestors stumbled upon the fact that when a honeycomb fell to the ground, new flavours would develop over time, leaving one feeling intoxicated. The ingenuity of humanity lay in discovering these patterns of fermentation within the natural world.
Liu Xinzheng: There are several reasons why we encourage people to try fermentation: firstly, for health and sustainability; secondly, for the preservation of cultural heritage; and thirdly, to ensure the quality of the product. To ferment successfully, one must master the basics, understand how to follow proper protocols, and know how to mitigate risks. Fermentation is an art; if we understand its patterns and use our own trials and experience to control it as much as possible, the success rate increases while the risks to food safety decrease.
Mary: Last year, we held several sharing events in various cities and met many fermentation enthusiasts. We noticed a common trait: the success of a fermentation brings a sense of joy that keeps people going. If a batch fails, it can feel disheartening, and you might lose the will to continue. However, once you grasp the principles of successful fermentation, that joy becomes sustainable.
● Interactions between vendors and consumers at the fermentation market during the ‘Fermentation Awakening Life Festival’.Xiao Chao: Thank you to all our speakers. At Foodthink, we want to show the public the true nature of the food system, rather than simply being swept along by commercial marketing. For instance, when large corporations set industry standards that require milk to be sterilised, consumers can no longer buy raw milk, which makes it difficult to produce cheese; gradually, our options diminish. We want to let people know that it is possible to make more responsible and equitable choices, ensuring that more artisans have the space to sustain their craft and their livelihoods.
Live Q&A Session
Audience member: Thank you very much to the speakers for sharing. However, I have a rather pessimistic thought: many current fermentation processes lack support in the market and are at a disadvantage. Small-scale production, such as cottage industries, cannot compete in scale with larger fermentation factories, so there can be a significant difference in price. Many fermented foods—sour chillies, for example—might be something every household makes in certain regions, and they share them with their neighbours. But if you put those same foods on the market to sell, consumers find the pricing very high. Does this mean these types of fermented foods are becoming ‘middle-class’ foods? More niche?
Marie: The consumer base is diverse; we aren’t trying to turn all food into fermented food. If your requirements aren’t that high, you can opt for more mass-market products. But when you have certain expectations regarding health, taste, and the accompanying culture—and you hope to learn more through your food—you will seek out different kinds of fermented foods. In fact, fermentation itself is an expression of diversity—just as we don’t need only one voice, we don’t need only one type of standardised food.
To give a simple example, alcohol is unlikely to disappear from people’s lives because it isn’t just a drink; it is more about marking the important moments in a person’s or a family’s life. In those moments, you need a higher-quality fermented beverage to commemorate the occasion.
So, I am not pessimistic that the craft of fermentation will disappear, but it does need to be understood by more people and truly integrated into everyone’s daily lives. Many people’s understanding of fermentation is still very limited. As more people learn about it, and become willing to share and experiment, it will continuously gain new energy.
When I was at university studying fermentation engineering, I didn’t actually have a very strong interest in it because I felt it was mostly about industrial applications and seemed to lack any real charm. But when we began making ferments by hand and sharing those products with more people, I realised that some people were genuinely willing to give up mass-market beer in favour of a craft product. This gives you a great deal of motivation; you feel that the energy of fermentation can be passed on. This is a very genuine feeling we’ve had throughout the seven or eight years of running our small brand.
● Tomorrow evening (15 November) at 7 pm, Foodthink will host the third online discussion for The Fermentation Bible book club, where Ma Junli (Mary) will share her fermentation story. Scan the QR code to register for the livestream or share the event.● This Saturday, Foodthink is heading to Shanghai to awaken life through fermentation once again with our partners at coffea SHED in the Columbia Circle. We welcome all our readers and fermentation enthusiasts in the East China region to come and join us!About the “Fermentation Awakening Life Festival”The “Fermentation Awakening Life Festival” was launched by Foodthink in October 2023. In collaboration with dozens of farmers’ markets, farms, fermented food artisans, restaurants, publishing houses, public welfare organisations, and other co-creators across the country, the festival centres on the theme of fermented foods. It features a two-month programme of online and offline activities across various cities and communities nationwide, including screenings of the “Alchemy of Food” video series, fermentation-themed markets, book clubs, film screenings, sharing sessions, workshops, and tasting events. We invite you to follow Foodthink’s WeChat official account and the accounts of our co-creation partners across various platforms to access the latest videos, articles, podcasts, and event information, find local fermentation activities, meet fellow fermentation enthusiasts, and awaken your life through fermentation!
