Twelve Years After Returning Home: Seeking a Personal Sanctuary Between Mulberry and Chrysanthemum | Food Talk Vol. 18

In this episode, the host of Food Talk travels to Tongxiang in Zhejiang province, following Yu Jiangang—a young returnee—as he visits the village where he was born, grew up, and has now settled back into. Together they explore the village’s final acre of Hangzhou white chrysanthemums, uncovering the biodiversity and Jiangnan cultural heritage woven into their cultivation. They also step onto his family’s premises to watch silkworms being raised, silk reeled, and silk quilts handmade, alongside batches of mustard tubers just laid down to cure…

Born to a farming family in Jiangnan, Yu Jiangang gained admission to university and went on to work in advertising at a prominent multinational firm—a trajectory that, by conventional standards, pointed straight to “success”. So why did he choose to return home with his partner to pursue ecological farming?

Yu Jiangang also stands apart as something of an outlier among those who return home. He sees agricultural labour—raising silkworms, reeling silk, picking and drying chrysanthemums—not merely as work, but as a way to “declare who he is”. He notes, too, that for the newer wave of young returnees, the intrinsic value of rural life is often drowned out by other, louder clamours. How, then, does he view the distinction between his own path and that of others who have gone back? And what exactly lies at the core of the values he holds fast to?

Lately, land contracting disputes and road-widening projects have brought unexpected challenges to Yu Jiangang’s family farm. What does he envision for the future, and can he carve out a new way forward toward the rural life he idealises? As agricultural culture increasingly captures the imagination of artists, what fresh experiments is he himself setting in motion?

Previously known only through his writing, Yu Jiangang will for the first time share his observations and reflections on life back home via this podcast.

This Episode’s Guest

Yu Jiangang

Born and raised in Zhenghebeng, a silk village in the Jiangnan region, Yu Jiangang graduated in 2008 and took up brand consulting in Beijing. Motivated by a growing concern for the agricultural sector and rural communities, he left his corporate job in 2011 to intern at the Little Donkey Farm. He subsequently volunteered on rural development projects in Zhuang villages along the Guangxi–Vietnam border. After returning to his hometown, he and his wife, Mei Yuhui, founded “Mei and Yu”, dedicated to the meticulous craft of making silk quilts and passing down traditional techniques. They hope to revitalise the intangible cultural heritage of sericulture and farming, crafting a living tradition for the future. He is also one of the hosts of the podcast *Collective Dynamics*, where he is known by the handle “Fish Tank”.

 

 

This Episode’s Hosts

Tianle

Founding editor at Foodthink and organiser of the Beijing Organic Farmers’ Market. Describing himself with a touch of self-deprecating wit as a “hidden demon in the capital” (a playful Chinese term for a Shanghai native living undercover in Beijing), his sharpest pang of homesickness stems from watching his childhood neighbourhood and favourite teenage eateries get swept up by viral internet trends. Consequently, every return journey is tinged with a familiar melancholy.

 

 

 

Wang Hao

Editor at Foodthink. Stepping into Yu Jiangang’s kitchen instantly brought back the comforting familiarity of his own grandmother’s home.

 

 

 

 

The brand “Mei He Yu” was formed by taking one character each from the names of Yu Jiangang and his wife, Mei Yuhui.
A biodiverse landscape of traditional crop cultivation and sericulture, stretching from the distant fields to the immediate foreground: mulberry groves, maize, rice paddies, cotton, and Hangbaiju chrysanthemums.
Intercropping zhacai (pickled mustard tuber) among low-growing mulberry trees has been practised in Jiaxing for over ninety years, giving rise to the renowned Xieqiao production region.
Just before the silkworms are ready to spin their cocoons, locals place them on bundles of bamboo strips and crop stalks, a practice traditionally known as “shangshan” (moving them onto the cocooning frames).

“Mei and Yu” are dedicated to making silk quilts using traditional hand-crafting techniques. Tending to every step—planting mulberry, rearing silkworms, drying the silk, carding the floss, and weaving the quilts—the couple learn as they go, working side by side.
Beyond silkworm rearing, “Mei and Yu” also persist in the ecological cultivation of the Hangzhou white chrysanthemum, Tongxiang’s city flower. With little commercial return and large-scale contractors securing the land, local farmers have largely given up on it. This patch now represents the village’s final acre of Hangzhou white chrysanthemums.
Last year, Yu Jiangang even attempted to live-stream his silkworm-rearing process. For him, the farming labour itself may well be the true meaning of his return home.
We invite you to listen to *Tuanli Jiegou*, a podcast featuring Yu Jiangang, which releases new episodes regularly to coincide with each solar term.

Timeline

00:51 What is rural life really like in villages that haven’t been hollowed out, where many people still reside?

02:04 The roots of the rural fixation on “heading to the city”: why moving into a block of flats just a kilometre from home still counts as “moving to the city”

05:27 Field recording: Elderly villagers chanting sutras in the temple

06:04 The pressure from close-knit communities on young returnees: the lifelong expectation to “head to the city to succeed”

08:11 From an advertising career in Beijing and Shanghai to raising silkworms and reeling silk back home: how did Yu Jiangang choose to go against the current?

13:31 A year of commuting by slow green train, five days in the city and two in the countryside: finding balance through diary writing

15:07 A sudden idea to “make silk quilts the traditional way” gives Yu Jiangang a new foothold for his rural return

18:38 Field recording: A visit to Mei Yu’s mulberry tree

25:03 Weaving local agriculture and culture together: from silk quilts to Hangzhou white chrysanthemums and preserved mustard greens

26:25 A distinctive path among young returnees: “I make these things to declare who I am.”

35:47 Can a small-scale family farm make ends meet? And why does Yu Jiangang prefer the term “odd-job farmer” over the trendy “Half-Farmer, Half-X”?

38:10 Preserving agricultural heritage and applying for World Heritage status: is it merely a pop-up, museum-style spectacle for modern visitors?

45:30 The rising trend of “returning to the countryside” complicates the notion of rural life: is there underlying hype that falls short of reality?

50:31 “The countryside is my personal haven”: letting the city be the city, and the countryside be the countryside.

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Podcast Production Team

Coordinator: Xiao Jing

Producer: Xiao Putao

Cover Design: Wan Lin

Music: Ba Nong

Editor: Wang Hao

Contact Email: xiaojing@foodthink.cn