The Subtle Depths of Chilli, Concealed in a Fermented Dish
Foodthink’s Take
In truth, lactic acid fermentation is equally effective and safe for preserving food. In this edition of *The Alchemy of Food*, Foodthink will guide you through fermenting chillies—a refreshing, appetite-stimulating staple. A video and a detailed illustrated guide await at the end of the article. We have also invited the author, Liuyi, to recount her experiences growing up as a spice-loving native of Hunan province and her enduring connection to her hometown’s chopped chilli peppers.
With the recent drop in temperature, why not try making your own fermented chillies to soothe and warm your stomach?
One
I grew up in Hengshan, Hunan—home to Mount Heng (Nanyue), one of China’s Five Great Mountains. It is a small county town built along the Xiang River, and my family home was just a quarter-hour’s walk from its banks.
Before I was born, the cross-river bridge had not yet been completed, so everyone relied on ferries at the wharf to cross between the two banks. Today, the bustling ferries are a thing of the past. All that remains at the old crossing is a simple archway known as the White Horse Pavilion. Its pillars bear the couplet: “The sacred raft arrives from the west, urging white horses onward; the great river flows east, washing the yellow dragons.” Above it stands the inscription: “A single reed spans east and west.”
Heading inland from the riverbank towards the county town’s main street, one passes sequentially a T-junction and a crossroads, historically referred to as the Three Archways and the Four Archways. As a child, I most often went to eat breakfast near the Four Archways. There was a wide variety to choose from: street vendors selling fried dough cakes and stir-fried rice noodles, alongside a dazzling array of shops offering bread and milk, traditional Chinese buns, and various styles of rice noodles with savoury toppings. The Juncheng Hotel also served morning tea to the public.
Next, let us turn to the local scene.
In the county town, along Kaiyun North Road and the narrow lane opposite Baishi Alley, a bustling market fair takes place every fifth day, beginning from the fifth of each lunar month. It draws a throng of traders and shoppers moving between town and country. I used to steer clear of this street. It struck me as too loud and chaotic, and I found myself constantly jostled forward by the restless crowds.
The county government once moved to ban the fair, aiming to clear the street’s chaos and congestion in a bid to build a model city. Yet the decree proved impossible to enforce. The locals were long accustomed to the fair, and everyone depended on it. What a monotonous, colourless world it would be, seeing only the uniform, mass-produced goods on supermarket shelves instead of the distinctive local produce each family brings.
Farmers from the villages would bring dried fish and shrimp, home-pickled radish skins, earth-peas, Jerusalem artichokes, and sword beans, along with many other unexpected ingredients and spices. Between buyers and sellers, eyebrows flew and voices rose amid a blend of jests and sharp retorts. This lively, zestful culture of haggling kept the street in a constant, vibrant stir.
二
Not every variety is suited to pickling, of course. Take the screw chilli, for instance: its skin is wavy and crinkled, its colour a fresh green. With a moderate heat and thick flesh, it is ideally suited to fresh stir-frying, offering a crisp, juicy bite. It is the small, slender chillies with thin skins—neatly proportioned like fingers—that prove to be the superior choice for preserving.
Chopped chilli is a staple seasoning in Hunan cuisine, known to virtually every local. The basic method involves mixing coarsely chopped chillies with salt in a jar, then submerging and sealing them with Chinese white liquor.
Households often tailor the blend to their taste, adding ginger slices, sword beans, or fermented black beans for extra depth. Though technically a preserved food, chopped chilli lacks any sourness, carrying instead a distinct savoury, umami-rich character. Without the liquor, it ferments into sour chilli.
I still remember the corner where Kaiyun North Road meets Qingyun East Road, where a red tarpaulin stood pitched against the night sky. Winter winds carried a damp chill that seeped through our coats as our family of three huddled together, making our way to the tent glowing crimson under the energy-saving lamps. A quiet nod to the owner, who was deftly tossing the wok outside, was all it took before we pulled back the canvas flap and stepped straight into this warmly inviting late-night haven.
The tent was compact, barely large enough to fit six small folding tables. We sat on standard, stackable red plastic stools. Yet the thick, windproof tarpaulin did wonders, shielding us from the damp cold that had left us shivering.
From outside came a crisp, resonant clatter of metal against metal. Then the proprietor emerged, carrying a steaming plate of chopped-chilli egg fried rice, and served it to us with a warm smile.
Three
A jar of lard, a bottle of minced chilli, and a pot of cured pork fried with dry chillies and chilli oil—these were the ‘usual three’ Grandma packed for Dad. This family tradition, much like the family line itself, naturally passed down to my mother and me. Whenever I travel far and stay for an extended period, Mum always prepares a selection of mixed cured meats and fermented bean curd that suits my taste to take from home.
Alas, in my youthful ignorance, how many flavours did I simply gulp down without truly savouring. There was so much to discover in my hometown—its people, its places, its everyday objects—and yet, despite having grown up there, I realise now how little I actually knew. Take the local landmarks: I’ve only climbed Zhurong Peak once, and I’ve never once set foot on Guanxiang Islet, despite it being right on my doorstep. It’s rather laughable, really.
By the same token, all I truly know of my hometown represents but a fraction of what it really is.
Yet I love her. How? I can hardly put it into words.
It is she who gave me my earliest understanding of the world, and the fleeting glimpses held in my memory seem woven into the very fabric of who I am. She is present in every passing moment of my life, just as I am present in every memory I hold of her. I long to be a kind of messenger, absorbing all its captivating history and charm into my very soul, and, like wild geese journeying through cold and warmth, sing out the elegant grace of Mount Heng.
To make fermented sour chilies, you will need:
Begin by washing the chilies, young yellow ginger, and garlic thoroughly, then leave them to air-dry. The soybeans should be soaked in advance and cooked until tender.
Next, finely chop the dried chilies, crush the garlic, and slice or mince the ginger.
Once all the ingredients are ready, transfer them to a clean container. Add salt to taste (typically 3–6% of the total weight) along with a pinch of sugar (maintaining a salt-to-sugar ratio of roughly 3:1), and mix thoroughly.
Q Why is salt essential when fermenting sour chilies?
2. It firms up “pectin,” a compound in plant cell walls, making the vegetables crunchier. It also slows the enzymatic breakdown of pectin, preserving a crisp texture and preventing the vegetables from turning too soft.
3. It creates a selective environment that reduces the types of bacteria capable of thriving, using natural selection to give salt-tolerant lactic acid bacteria a competitive edge. (Adapted from Sandor Katz’s *The Art of Fermentation*)
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Once fermented, the sour chilies are best stored in the fridge. This slows down the fermentation process and extends their shelf life.
Stir-fried sour chilies go wonderfully with rice, and pickling daikon radish in sour chili brine is another lovely option. Give it a go!
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Edited by: Foodthink Editor