Why Do We Need Fermentation as Food Choices Become Increasingly Standardised?

Marie: Let me offer another example from the craftspeople: around Lugu Lake, there is a deeply traditional fermented drink known as Sulima wine. To prepare its starter, one must climb to altitudes above 3,000 metres to harvest a specific medicinal herb. Between the difficulty of foraging and technological progress, commercial starter cultures are gradually supplanting traditional herbal ones.

In truth, Sulima wine has no standardised production rules; not even the spelling of its name is consistent. Many visitors to Lugu Lake wish to try it, only to find it virtually unobtainable. Why? Because the makers typically brew it exclusively for family and friends. Without a market, production and consumption fail to form a healthy cycle. Slowly, as society evolves, those who practice the craft will become fewer and fewer.

If more organisations were to step up public education and advocacy—helping people understand that fermented foods are not only beneficial for health and sustainability, but also carry cultural heritage within them—then more people would choose to consume them, and more artisans would be motivated to keep the craft alive.

Jing Yan: Many traditional fermentation artisans are remarkably down-to-earth and often feel utterly bewildered by the intricate commercial systems that govern modern markets. Some find themselves wondering, “I’ve crafted an exceptional brew, so why is no one keen to try it?” Such communities often lie beyond the reach of commercial enterprise, leading those invested in the craft to believe that preserving these traditions may ultimately fall to the government. Publishing houses and cultural companies can also introduce fermentation culture to the wider public through books, promotional materials, and other channels. That is why “making our voices heard” is so vital.

Liu Xinzhen: Furthermore, our consumption habits are shifting. Historically, yellow wine was the mainstream choice for Chinese drinkers, later giving way to baijiu. It was only over a century ago, when missionaries introduced the French Rose Honey grape to Cizhong—a small settlement on the Lancang River in Yunnan—that locals began producing wine.

Now that domestic wine has cultivated a solid consumer base, producers are well-placed to develop a wider range of products. Should new fermented categories emerge, however, advocates will be needed to steer consumer trends in their direction. China does have “intangible cultural heritage” designations to safeguard traditional artisans, yet protection alone may not suffice. Without an engaged consumer base, conservation efforts in isolation simply lack the market pull and scope for growth needed to truly thrive.

Jing Yan: In the publishing industry, we (Lake Shore Culture) are something of an outlier. Alongside mass-market titles, we also publish more specialist works. Over a decade ago, when I was working as a commissioning editor, I published Jack Goody’s *Cooking, Cuisine and Class*, a work by the renowned British anthropologist that explores social change through the lens of food culture. From that point onwards, we began to seek out works that use food to illuminate broader social issues.

Before *The Art of Fermentation*, we were producing titles related to alcohol, such as *The Whisky Encyclopedia*, which naturally drew our attention to the wider field of fermentation. We found there were very few specialist books on the subject, and the genre remained entirely unexplored in mainland China’s publishing market. Given that *The Art of Fermentation* had also just won that year’s James Beard Foundation Award—a prestigious accolade in the US food industry—we decided to publish it.

Even today, fermentation remains a highly niche interest in China. At the time, we didn’t have high expectations for *The Art of Fermentation*. We simply hoped that perhaps ten years down the line, someone might stumble upon it in a library or a second-hand bookshop and discover the cutting-edge content we had introduced back then. But attending this event has shown us that there are indeed kindred spirits interested in the topic. It looks like *The Art of Fermentation* is no longer a lonely publication after all.

Xiao Chao: How did Mary first come across this book?

Mary: During a business trip in 2015, I came across the Taiwanese edition of *The Fermentation Bible*. I studied fermentation engineering, where the curriculum focused mainly on large-scale industrial production methods. Many people around me were unfamiliar with the discipline; some even asked whether fermentation engineering simply meant learning how to leaven dough for steamed buns. Furthermore, the fermentation techniques used in factories are hardly applicable to domestic life. Yet, looking at that Taiwanese book, I realised how closely fermentation is tied to our daily lives, and even more so to Chinese life—it is simply woven into your everyday routine, entirely feasible to practise regularly at home. From that point on, I began experimenting with everyday fermentation, such as developing and brewing beer, gradually accumulating knowledge and experience. Through continuous trial and error, I came to understand that fermentation is deeply intertwined with daily life, and it is a sustainable practice rich in cultural meaning.

Xiaochao: Both of you have academic backgrounds in fermentation engineering. Mary previously worked in media, and Teacher Liu is an amateur photography enthusiast. It feels entirely fitting that you two would come together to publish *Incredible Fermentation and Brewing*. Yet, was there a specific catalyst that inspired you to conceptualise this book?

Mary: While on a business trip to Japan, we noticed at Tsutaya Books a dedicated section entirely devoted to fermentation books. In fact, every province in China has plenty of fermented foods, yet there is a lack of publications introducing them. I thought then: why not produce a book ourselves that focuses on fermented foods from across China? Anyone who knows about fermentation understands that it is a process that demands time, which stands in stark contrast to today’s fast-paced, efficiency-driven way of life. In many regions of Guizhou, Yunnan and Sichuan, fewer and fewer people are making traditional fermented foods due to changing lifestyles. Before publishing the book, we spent more than half a year conducting fieldwork, and on every trip, we felt the urgency of documentation and preservation. I believe that whether as makers or communicators, we should do our best to keep the “flame” alive, so that the flavours, textures, nutritional value and cultural significance of fermentation can be passed down.

However, I firmly believe in the saying that culture must connect with people’s daily lives to truly become culture. I believe that ordinary people must not only consume fermented foods but actually make them; only then is there a real possibility of their continuous transmission.

Jing Yan: Mary put that perfectly. Given how rapidly the industrialised food sector has expanded, it’s hard to picture traditional fermentation crafts taking up space on supermarket shelves. While e-commerce platforms seem convenient, these traditional fermented foods are virtually impossible to find, even if you’re prepared to pay for them. With the pace of commercial competition moving so fast, traditional skills are all too easily sidelined. It’s a genuine shame. It would, of course, be ideal if we could advance to a point where, despite the dominance of highly industrialised and mass-produced food, we still preserve traditional techniques that hold real value.

Xiao Chao: *The Fermentation Bible* comprises two volumes: *The Natural Magician* and *The Alchemy of Food*. Both titles are remarkably apt and really stand out. How did you come up with them?

Jing Yan: Public awareness of this book is still quite low, so we discarded and rewrote the promotional copy numerous times. People generally associate fermentation with “soy sauce”, “brewing”, or “pickled vegetables”. We wanted to use a handful of carefully chosen words to spark a broader appreciation for fermentation. When a single radish is transformed into a bowl of dried radish, the final product bears little resemblance to the raw vegetable. It’s akin to alchemy: extracting a nugget of gold from a heap of ore. The metaphor also reflects our reverence for the fermentation craft.

Xiao Chao: The title *Incredible Fermentation & Brewing* is quite intriguing too.

Mary: Because fermentation is truly incredible. Whether we refer to it as “alchemy” or “incredible”, both terms encapsulate the very nature of fermentation. Through fermentation’s transformative process, the original state of food undergoes significant changes in form and flavour, as well as in its potential for storage. These changes bring a sense of wonder and open up new possibilities; I’m sure anyone who has attempted to make fermented foods can relate to this. In the end, you might achieve a perfect batch or it might turn sour, but it’s always an “incredible” experience. Liu Xinzhang: Fermentation adds another layer to the character of food and broadens the scope of its flavours, unlocking further potential. If you’re making a wine, you can treat it as a medium. Much like composing a poem or painting a picture, you use it to express your own ideas, which is a genuinely fascinating pursuit. We encourage everyone to give it a try by following *Incredible Fermentation & Brewing*, so you can experience this “incredible” process for yourself.

Xiao Chao: There is a prevailing view that people should not ferment food at home, as certain variables are difficult to control and pose a degree of risk. How do you experts view this claim?

Jing Yan: Fermentation is a remarkable transformation, one that carries an element of unpredictability. The conditions required to control its many variables—temperature, humidity, and so on—differ widely. In that sense, working with fermentation is much like creating art: there are elements that meet your expectations and others that defy them, often yielding entirely new and unexpected flavours. In some ways, fermentation is uncontrollable, even a little unsettling, but that is precisely what makes the process so rewarding. If we call fermentation “nature’s magician,” its magic isn’t confined to the moment it finishes; it lies in the constant element of surprise. We are not merely controlling the process; through it, we are learning from nature itself. Katz’s writing feels deeply relatable—once you have had similar experiences, you can easily sense the allure of what he describes. Some master brewers feel there is a profound, almost spiritual quality to the craft. This serves as a starting point for reconsidering our relationship with the natural world. Rather than simply extracting from nature, our engagement with it also offers moments for reflection.

Mary: That’s well put, Jing Yan. Fermentation teaches us how to live in harmony with nature, largely because it wasn’t invented by modern people. In ancient times, our ancestors happened to notice that when a honeycomb fell to the ground, it would develop new flavours over time, giving people a pleasantly intoxicating sensation. Human ingenuity lay in recognising these natural patterns of fermentation.

Liu Xinzhen: We encourage people to try fermentation for several reasons. First, it promotes health and sustainability. Second, it helps preserve cultural heritage. Third, it ensures product quality. To ferment successfully, you need a solid grasp of the basics—knowing how to carry out standardised trials and which risks to mitigate. Fermentation is an art form. Once we understand its principles, we can use our own experimentation and experience to guide the process as closely as possible. This not only increases our success rate but also reduces food safety risks.

Mary: Last year, we held a series of sessions across different cities and met numerous fermentation enthusiasts. One thing they all had in common was this: successful fermentation brings real joy and keeps people going. A failed batch can feel quite disheartening, enough to make you want to give up. But once you grasp the principles behind successful fermentation, that sense of fulfilment becomes enduring.

Xiao Chao: Thank you all. At its heart, Foodthink wants to show the public how the food system actually works, rather than letting commercial narratives dictate what we accept. For instance, major companies set industry standards that mandate milk must be pasteurised. When raw milk is inaccessible to consumers, making cheese becomes difficult, and gradually our choices dwindle. Ultimately, we want to show that by making more responsible and equitable choices, we can carve out space for skilled artisans to continue their craft.

Q&A Session

Audience member: Thank you to our speakers for sharing your insights. However, I have a rather pessimistic thought: many fermentation techniques today lack market support and are at a distinct disadvantage. Small-scale productions, such as home workshops, cannot compete with larger fermentation factories in terms of scale, so the price difference can be significant. Many fermented foods, like fermented chillies, might be something every household prepares in certain regions, traditionally shared or gifted among neighbours once made. But when these homemade items are put up for sale, consumers often perceive the pricing as too high. Does this mean such fermented foods are becoming foods for the middle class? Growing more niche?

Mary: Consumers are a diverse group, and there is no need to turn every food into a fermented one. If your requirements are more basic, you can certainly opt for mainstream products. But when you have specific expectations regarding health, flavour, or cultural heritage, and wish to deepen your understanding through what you eat, you will naturally seek out different fermented foods. In truth, fermentation is itself an expression of diversity—just as we do not need to hear only one voice, we do not need a single standardised food.

Take a simple example: alcohol is unlikely to disappear from our lives. It is more than just a beverage; it marks significant moments in a person’s or a family’s life. For those occasions, you require a higher-quality fermented drink to commemorate the moment.

I am not pessimistic about the art of fermentation disappearing, but it certainly needs to be understood by a wider audience and genuinely woven into everyday life. Currently, public awareness of fermentation remains quite limited. As more people learn about it, and are willing to share it and try it, it will continuously be infused with new energy.

When I studied fermentation engineering at university, I actually lacked a strong interest in it, as I viewed it primarily as an industrial application with little personal appeal. But when we started fermenting products by hand ourselves and continuously shared them with others, we discovered that people were genuinely willing to give up mainstream beer in favour of craft options. That is incredibly motivating. It makes you feel that the energy of fermentation can be passed on—a sentiment that has been profoundly real to us throughout the seven or eight years we have spent building this small brand.

About the Fermentation Awakening Festival

Launched by Foodthink in October 2023, the Fermentation Awakening Festival brings together dozens of farmers’ markets, farms, fermentation artisans, restaurants, publishers, and charitable organisations across the country as collaborating partners. Centred on fermented foods, the festival ran for over two months with a blend of online and offline events across multiple cities and communities. Activities included screenings of the video series The Alchemy of Food, fermentation-themed markets, book clubs, film viewings, sharing sessions, workshops, and tasting events. Follow the Foodthink WeChat Official Account and the social channels of our collaborating partners to stay updated on the latest videos, articles, podcasts, and event announcements. Discover local fermentation activities, connect with fellow fermentation enthusiasts, and join us in awakening your lifestyle through fermentation!

Fermentation Awakening Festival 

– Organisers –

Foodthink  Beijing Organic Farmers’ Market

– Collaborating Partners –

Lakeshore Culture  Bule Cheese  Yijian Bakery  Xiucai Tofu Workshop

Happy Lab  9-Inch Craft Brewing  Jiecai Garden  Daxiao Coffee

Qiaolike  Niu Pi Tang  White Tiger Hamlet  coffea SHED

Chengdu Lifestyle Market Nanning Urban Farmers’ Market Harvest Celebration

(List subject to update)

– Supporters –

Tianren Culture  Heyi Holdings

Text compiled by: Shan Wei

Edited by: Wang Hao