“Catching” Wild Microbes from the Air? The Magic of Sourdough Fermentation

Have you ever tried sourdough?

Commercial sourdough typically relies on isolated, high-purity yeast strains. This approach speeds up production and delivers a more consistent loaf, but it comes at the expense of the distinctive flavour, texture and mouthfeel that traditional mixed cultures offer.

In truth, wild yeast is everywhere in our surroundings. By simply creating an environment conducive to their growth, you can ‘capture’ the perfect fermenting microbes for baking your own sourdough.

In this instalment of The Alchemy of Food, we are joined by Yijian Yi, founder of Jane & Lucy, who will demonstrate how to cultivate a sourdough starter and bake sourdough bread. To begin, gather 50g of wholemeal flour and 50g of water.

● Grains and the flour milled from them harbour a wealth of microorganisms. Unlike refined flour, wholemeal flour is ground from the entire wheat grain, preserving a rich diversity of microbes that make it an excellent natural aid for fermentation.

Thoroughly mix equal parts water and wholemeal flour until smooth, cover the container, and set it aside in a cool, well-ventilated spot.

Each day, discard half of the mixture and replenish with 50g of wholemeal flour and 50g of water. After about three to five days, you should start to see bubbles forming in the jar.

At this stage, you can switch to plain flour for feeding, adjusting the water-to-flour ratio to 1.25:1. Continue this routine for another three days or so. Once the jar is full of abundant bubbles, your starter will be lively enough to bake with.

It is best to feed your starter daily to keep it active. Feeding at a higher ratio dilutes the acidity of the fermentation environment, giving the yeast a competitive advantage.

To do this, leave a small amount of mature starter in the jar, add water and flour at a 1.25:1 ratio, stir until well combined, cover, and leave to ferment overnight (about 12 hours) in a cool, well-ventilated place. Afterward, store it in the refrigerator.

If you plan to go without using it for a while, you can freeze or dry a portion to keep as a seed starter, meaning you won’t have to start from scratch next time.

A natural starter is a complex microbial culture comprising yeast, lactic acid bacteria, and acetic acid bacteria. Both lactic and acetic acid bacteria produce acids, which is why the resulting bread has a pronounced tang, a complex and layered flavour, and is known as sourdough.

To make sourdough bread using your homemade starter, you will need:

*Sandor Katz, author of *The Fermentation Bible*, advises that when baking sourdough, you should use a small amount of starter—no more than 25% of the total dough weight. This keeps the acidity subtle and understated, rather than overpowering.

Place in a bowl. Add 80% of the water first and mix thoroughly, then gradually add the remaining water while kneading until the dough comes together. Cover with a damp cloth and leave to rest in a warm, humid spot for two hours.

Once the dough is brought together, you can fold in some dried fruit that you’ve previously toasted to bring out the flavour.

After two hours, check the dough’s progress. If it springs back quickly when gently pressed, it needs a little longer to rise. Both the activity of the wild yeast and the ambient temperature will significantly affect the fermentation.

Once the first proof is complete, shape the dough and place it seam-side up into a banneton. Cover it securely.

Transfer the basket into the refrigerator to allow the wild yeast to continue its slow work during the second proof. After an overnight chill, the dough will be ready for the oven.

Before baking, preheat your oven to 230°C.

Now it’s time to give the dough a little ‘makeover’: turn it out onto a baking tray, gently brush away any loose flour from the surface, and score or decorate it as you wish.

Place an additional baking tray on the bottom rack of the oven and pour some hot water into it to create steam. Set a timer for twenty minutes.

After twenty minutes, crack the oven door slightly to let some steam escape; this will help the crust colour evenly. Bake for a further five minutes or so until the crust develops a rich caramel hue. Don’t worry if it looks dark – this is the Maillard reaction in action, responsible for developing complex flavours.

Freshly baked bread isn’t actually fully cooked through in the centre when it first comes out of the oven, so it’s essential to let it cool completely before slicing. A little patience now means a perfectly finished loaf.

Foodthink at the Guangdong Harvest Festival

01 ‘The Alchemy of Food’

Festival Premiere

1–3 December, Lifestyle Plaza

Haven’t had your fill of ‘The Alchemy of Food’ video series? Come browse the market stalls at the Guangdong Harvest Festival and feast your eyes!

From 1 to 3 December, we will be looping the complete video series at the festival’s ‘Lifestyle Plaza’ (see the poster for the exact location). Veteran fermentation enthusiasts will share their expertise on making ten fermented foods: kombucha, shio koji, kimchi, natural sourdough starter, sourdough bread, natto, mozzarella, whey cheese, fermented peppers, and sweet fermented rice.

02 ‘The Journey of Fermentation’ Screening

2 December (Saturday), 10:00–12:00

Few fermentation enthusiasts are unfamiliar with *The Art of Fermentation* and its legendary author, Sandor Katz. What fascinating stories will unfold when this fermentation devotee visits China, a true kingdom of fermentation?

Foodthink has been authorised by Katz and the production company, People’s Republic of Fermentation, to translate this eight-part documentary. Whether you are a seasoned fermentation practitioner or a complete beginner, you are welcome to join us for the screening at the festival. Admission is free and no advance registration is required.

Date & Time: 2 December (Saturday), 10:00–12:00

Location: Screening Room, Guangzhou Gongmei Harbour International Digital Innovation Centre Gongmei Harbour International Digital Innovation Centre

03 Foodthink Guides You Through the Harvest Festival

Online Live Stream

Foodthink has also arranged three live streams of the event for those who cannot attend in person:

1 Dec 16:00 | Live: 2023 Guangdong Harvest Festival Opening Ceremony
2 Dec 10:00 | Live: 2023 Harvest Festival | A Market Tour with Foodthink
3 Dec 10:30 | Live: 2023 Harvest Festival | Forum: When Pre-Prepared Dishes Meet Local Produce

Please reserve your spot via Foodthink’s WeChat Channels. We look forward to sharing the excitement with you!

Editor: Foodthink