Altay Pastoralists on Transhumance to Summer Pasture Still Live in the Shadow of the Blizzard

● Altay pastoralists on transhumance. Many roads in Northern Xinjiang were built along Kazakh transhumance routes, and cars giving way to cattle and sheep is the norm during transhumance season.

In late June, as we hitched a ride towards Jiangbutas Village in eastern Altay, Xinjiang, we could regularly spot Kazakh pastoralists on horseback driving their cattle and sheep along the transhumance routes, with cars frequently pulling over to give way to the livestock. This is precisely the season for transhumance.

The pastoralists of Altay region have largely retained their semi-nomadic traditions: grazing on alpine pastures in summer, returning to mountain-foot settlements in winter, and transitioning through mid-elevation pastures in spring and autumn. At present, most of the livestock in Jiangbutas Village have already reached the mid-elevation pasture in the Naogan area, waiting to head up the mountains.

● A yurt at the Naogan mid-elevation pasture, belonging to a pastoral family. It takes roughly twenty minutes to drive up from the settlement below.

Whether in the villages settled at the foot of the mountains or in the gleaming white yurts of the mid-elevation pasture, one can see pastoralists milking their animals, drinking milk tea, and playing with their children – scenes of serenity and joy.

If that were all you saw, you might never imagine that just half a year ago, they had endured a natural disaster the likes of which had not been seen in over a decade. In late November 2022, the entire Altay region experienced a rare blizzard (click to learn more). From 23 November onwards, Jiangbutas Village was buried under five consecutive days of heavy snowfall. Thick snowdrifts blocked all roads in and out of the village; fodder and coal could not be brought in, and pastoralists with inadequate winter reserves could only fret helplessly.

● Five consecutive days of blizzard in November 2022, with overnight lows plunging below −40 °C – a rarity in years. Image source: Xinjiang Shan Shui.

Through the joint efforts of the village committee and the resident charitable organisation, the Xinjiang Shan Shui Environmental Protection and Sustainable Development Centre (hereafter the “Shan Shui Environmental Protection Centre”), the village used over thirty thousand yuan in charitable donations to clear the roads and brought in dozens of tonnes of corn silage feed from outside to distribute free of charge to 41 pastoral households (click to learn more), providing some urgent relief.

During our household-by-household visits, we were deeply moved by the resilience and optimism of most of the pastoralists. In reality, however, many still live in the shadow of last winter’s blizzard. The impact of extreme weather on livestock health, pasture environments, pastoralists’ incomes and living standards has been far more complex and enduring than one might expect.

● Whether at the settlement or on the pasture, Kazakh women milk their animals and make dairy products every day.

I. Pastoralists’ Livelihoods After the Blizzard

The first pastoralist we visited was Bexian, the deputy village committee head overseeing animal husbandry in Jiangbutas Village. Having served on the village committee since 2006, Director Bexian rarely sits in an office; he spends most of his time grazing alongside his fellow village pastoralists, closely monitoring pastures and weather conditions and coordinating on the various issues the herders face. At the Naogan mid-elevation pasture, we had to ask around several times before we found his family’s yurt. Now fifty-four, Director Bexian lives with his wife and his youngest son’s family. They keep more than a hundred goats, over thirty sheep, and roughly forty head of large livestock between cattle and horses.

●Before becoming deputy head, Bexian (far left) had served as the village Party branch secretary for eighteen years and knew the village’s pastures and pastoralists intimately.

Like ordinary Kazakh pastoralists, their principal source of income comes from selling livestock at market. Added to his salary, income from agricultural odd jobs, grassland ecological subsidies and reward payments, and border area subsidies, their annual income can typically reach 100,000 yuan. Last year, apart from salary and government subsidies, there was virtually no other income – only expenditure.

Director Bexian explained that the lack of income was because the pandemic in previous years had disrupted the normal livestock trading market. Jiangbutas Village, bordering Mongolia in the northeast, is remote and difficult to reach; traders from other areas could not get in, and local traders took advantage of the situation to drive prices down. A head of local cattle that once fetched seven or eight thousand yuan could bring no more than two or three thousand last year.

With livestock unable to command a fair price, the only option was to keep feeding them, and the long, bitter winters in the Altay mountains only increased herders’ need for fodder. After last year’s once-in-over-a-decade blizzard, winter in Jiangbutas Village lingered for nearly half a year more, until the final snowfall in May finally marked the end of the harsh cold.

In Jiangbutas Village, which has largely preserved the tradition of four-season transhumance, winter is the hardest season for the livestock. The fat reserves the animals have built up over the better part of a year are significantly depleted by this point, and ewes and does nearing lambing need extra care and nourishment.

In years with moderate snowfall, cattle and sheep can roam the winter pasture freely to find grass, licking snow when thirsty. But in a severe winter stretching nearly eight months, when the winter pasture is buried beneath deep snow, herders can only pen their livestock in the settlement’s barns and feed them on purchased fodder.

●A barn belonging to pastoralist Hamane’s family, used for storing fodder.
The considerable expense of purchasing fodder exhausted the savings of many villagers, leaving them no choice but to take out loans or buy on credit, thereby falling into debt. Whenever this subject came up, Director Bexian would grow visibly worried. Jiangbutas Village had long been impoverished; after shedding poverty in recent years, villagers’ incomes had finally risen to a middling level. Yet after the pandemic years and last winter’s blizzard, people’s living standards had slid back down.

II. Sickly and Frail Livestock

●Sarikguli points out the location of her family’s pasture.

Sarikguli, the pastoralist who has been driving us to and from households for our door-to-door survey over the past two days, also lost six cattle to the lockdown and the blizzard.

Last winter, Sarikguli’s family had limited fodder reserves and dared not give their livestock the normal amount of supplementary feeding, offering only a small portion each day. She tried another way to supplement their nutrition – every three or four days, mixing raw eggs into a mash with fodder for the cattle – but this could not fundamentally solve the feed shortage.

Hungry cattle could not bear staying penned in the barn and ran off to the hills to forage on their own. Pandemic restrictions had not yet been lifted, and villagers were told to stay indoors; Sarikguli could not check on her cattle regularly up on the mountain. Wolves killed four of them, and another two died of thirst because, penned inside the fencing, they could not get out to drink. The cow she treasured most had lost its ear tag and was therefore ineligible for an insurance claim; she was so furious she did not drink milk tea for two days.

When she spoke of these losses, Sarikguli’s tone was strikingly calm. It was only after the translator finished conveying her words that we, who did not speak the language, grasped just how devastating the losses had been.

I asked Sarikguli how many cattle she planned to bring to market this year. She did not answer directly, saying only, “No one can say what the future holds.” Adding the five head culled due to an animal epidemic, her family had lost half its cattle last year. Nomadic life is full of uncertainty – who could guarantee that nothing unforeseen would happen this year?

Yet perhaps Sarikguli still harboured a faint hope. She added that if prices were good this year and a single cow could fetch over ten thousand yuan, then selling just three would be enough to settle the winter’s feed debts and outstanding loans.

But given the condition of the herd, such expectations were unlikely to materialise. Sarikguli had noticed that this year’s newborn calves would not stay close to their mothers, because the breeding females had not eaten enough in winter and could not produce sufficient milk. Both the mothers and the young were generally frail; all they could hope for now was for the animals to build up fat reserves well over the coming months.

●On the pasture, little animals are the best friends of Kazakh children.

III. Drought-Stricken Pastures

The morning after we arrived in Jiangbutas Village, Sarikguli and another village guide, Marwa, took us to Sandao Haizi. Spanning some 600 square kilometres on the southern slopes of the Altai Mountains, Sandao Haizi is a subalpine grassland and wetland area known for its three alpine lakes. It serves both as the area’s flagship tourist attraction and as a shared summer pasture for villagers from several surrounding pastoral settlements. By tradition, from 5 July onwards, thousands of Kazakh pastoralist households – including those of Jiangbutas Village – may drive their cattle and sheep up here for transhumance.

●On 21 June, swathes of snow still blanketed the hills at Sandao Haizi.

By the villagers’ experience, the snow on Sandao Haizi should have melted nearly all the way by late June. Yet this year considerable snow cover remains unmelted, and the temperature is more than ten degrees lower than in the valley below. We had come up the mountain in short sleeves, only to reach for heavy jackets against the biting wind.

With the snowmelt late and temperatures slow to climb, the mountain grass is growing slowly too. Several pastoralists told us that the move up to the summer pasture will very likely be postponed by a few days this year.

Conditions on the mid-elevation pasture are scarcely better. Director Bexian had noticed that in the Naogan area the grass was faring worse than in previous years and had already begun to dry out.

●A section of one pastoral family’s grassland at the mid-elevation pasture.

As we followed Director Bexian to visit eighty-two-year-old Elder Yahuti, a light rain began drifting across the grassland. By the time we stepped into the yurt, our clothes were damp, yet Yahuti’s family were overjoyed – it was the first rain the mountain had seen in two months. But barely twenty minutes later the rain had stopped, and the grassland’s thirst was far from quenched. Director Bexian reckoned this would be another dry year.

In his memory, 2010 marked a turning point. From then on, winter snows grew heavier than before, summer rains grew scarcer, and the air grew ever drier.

●Elder Yahuti, eighty-two, and his family have come up to the mid-elevation pasture for transhumance, and we interviewed them in their yurt. He worries that if another blizzard like last year’s were to strike, many villagers would have no choice but to sell all their livestock at a loss to cover their debts – and may never graze animals again.

With rainfall so insufficient in spring and summer, could the Altay region’s abundant snowmelt, after all, ease the drought on the pastures?

Seventy-six-year-old pastoralist Hayimu patiently resolved our puzzlement: if the snowpack is too deep, it crushes the grassland beneath it, causing soil erosion and leaving the earth bare; and if spring temperatures rise quickly, the rapid melt generates snowmelt floods that are far more likely to scour the pasture away than to seep down and replenish the groundwater beneath it.

●On the road to Sandao Haizi, stretches of grassland crushed bare under the weight of snow can be seen in many places.

Elder Hayimu, who has grazed livestock for decades, is remarkably robust – perhaps from eagle training in his youth, his eyes remain sharp and bright. Though he took up settled life in the valley below a decade ago, he still rides out every day to help his son tend the family’s herd.

When conversation turned to last November’s blizzard, the old man reflected that he had not seen anything so fearsome in sixty years. He told us that if such a storm had struck decades ago, it would certainly have caused heavy losses of both life and livestock. Though the village’s situation was dire this year, fortunately no animals had perished directly from the blizzard.

Recalling past snow disasters, Elder Hayimu also spoke of the sudden sleet that fell in the summer of 1997. His family still remembers the names of the herders from the neighbouring township who froze to death in that blizzard.

●Janat (far left) of the Shan Shui Environmental Protection Centre and Elder Hayimu (far right) converse in Kazakh. Sarikguli is third from the right.
Only seventeen at the time, Sarikguli witnessed the carnage of livestock losses firsthand. After two days of vicious sleet, she and her brother climbed the mountain in search of surviving animals. Among the cattle and sheep that had frozen to death row after row, they came upon a small group of a neighbour’s camels huddled together for warmth. They had knelt too long in the bitter cold and could no longer rise on their own. To save these few lives, the camels’ owner steeled himself and lashed them with a whip – again and again, until streaks of blood marked their hides – and only then did the camels come to, stagger to their feet, and follow him home.

IV. An Uncertain Future

“This is simply the life we pastoralists live.” As Elder Hayimu recounted the disasters he had weathered, he showed no great pessimism – more acceptance, a quiet sense of peace, and a deep identification with Kazakh nomadic culture. Yet nomadic life is so demanding and so fraught with uncertainty – will the younger generation of pastoralists still choose the way of life their fathers knew?

● Kazakh villagers with greater financial means have begun keeping their cattle in pens to reduce the risks of transhumance. A centralised, manageable volume of cattle sold at market also makes it easier to connect with buyers. Can you tell which one in the image is a purebred?
Some villagers have already been trying out a new approach to intensive livestock farming. On this trip, we visited a small-scale fattening farm: the farmer buys in calves from villagers or from further afield, fattens them on feed produced by neighbouring villages, and then sells them in bulk when the opportunity arises. The way this model hedges against climatic risk seems obvious enough. Yet when we put the question to Elder Hayimu – whether nomadic herding or penned rearing is better – he answered with a question of his own: “You tell me – is it better for livestock to graze freely as they please, or to wait around for someone to feed them?”

Hearing this, we were struck by a sudden clarity. The old man’s embrace of nomadic life was no mere deference to tradition; it also reflected his profound understanding of its ecological value. He spoke with some regret of how many young people today no longer understand grazing at all – “they neither know the benefits of herding nor the drawbacks of not herding.”

So just how much ecological wisdom is embedded in the Kazakh tradition of nomadic herding?

In March this year, the Shan Shui Environmental Protection Centre, inspired and supported by partners including the Heyi Green Charity Foundation and the Vanke Public Welfare Foundation, launched a “Community Survey of Local Knowledge on Climate Change Response in Pastoral Areas.” The project aims, on the one hand, to document and pass on traditional ecological knowledge and, on the other, to deepen pastoralists’ awareness of climate change so that effective adaptations can be developed.

Secretary Bexian, for his part, believes villagers should not simply wait for the government to bail them out. Alongside preserving the tradition of transhumance, they should explore new livelihoods through wage labour, entrepreneurship, and tourism. This, too, is part of what the Shan Shui Environmental Protection Centre has been working on. Since 2017, the team has been collaborating with the Altay Mountains State Forest Administration and the Liangheyuan Nature Reserve to help Jiangbutas Village build sustainable livelihoods.

Over more than seven years, women’s groups have been set up in the village, reviving and passing on the traditional Kazakh craft of making black soap; villagers have been trained to run family guesthouses for the tourist trade; summer camps have been organised for children, drawing on university students from both near and far to introduce them to ecological knowledge and traditional wisdom…

● Grandmother Montei of Jiangbutas Village demonstrates the traditional Kazakh method of making black soap.

Years of steady work have made the Shan Shui Environmental Protection Centre team the most welcomed outsiders in the village. When last year’s snow disaster struck, Xinjiang Shan Shui moved swiftly to raise funds, providing the village with urgently needed relief and helping villagers understand the value of an NGO acting as a bridge between the community and the wider world.

In the eyes of local government officials, the Shan Shui team has brought fresh ideas for development, funding, social resources, and new working methods – empowering ordinary residents and enabling the government’s rural revitalisation policies to take root in the village.

Eid al-Adha falls at the end of June. We said our farewells to Jiangbutas Village a little early, while the Shan Shui team stayed on to work in the village and share in the festivities with everyone. For the pastoralists, the most beautiful and cherished season – life on the summer pasture – is just beginning. Let us close by borrowing a Kazakh proverb we heard many times along the way, and offer it as our thanks and blessing to our pastoralist friends in Altay: as long as one is healthy and safe, all is well.

● 29 June was the first day of Eid al-Adha. The Xinjiang Shan Shui Environmental Protection Centre team visited pastoralists’ homes to celebrate together. Image source: Xinjiang Shan Shui
Foodthink Contributor
zeen
A person who has yet to outgrow the base pleasure of eating meat, with a keen interest in livestock-related topics.

 

 

 

 

Foodthink has long followed livestock issues. Since 2018, we have published a series of articles on pastoral life and pastoral areas, hoping to record the real experiences of pastoralists and explore how they can live more sustainably in a changing world. If these issues resonate with you, if you have first-hand materials and stories from the ground, or if you have your own insights, we welcome your contributions – please submit or get in touch.

Submissions: info@foodthink.cn or zeen@foodthink.cn

About the Xinjiang Shan Shui Environmental Protection and Sustainable Development Centre
Founded in February 2015, the Xinjiang Shan Shui Environmental Protection and Sustainable Development Centre takes as its mission to “rediscover indigenous traditional wisdom, recognise the value of ecological culture, and rebuild a harmonious relationship between people and the land.” Working in communities around protected areas, the Centre unearths local knowledge on the harmonious coexistence of people and nature. With the community at the centre, it inspires grassroots action to carry on ecological cultural traditions through education and outreach. At the same time, acting as a technical service provider for community co-management to forestry and grassland authorities, the Centre generates knowledge on strategies, methods, rules, procedures, and lessons learned – offering ideas, knowledge, and tools for community co-management, as well as civil-society examples and practical references for grassroots governments pursuing ecological civilisation.

All images in this article, unless otherwise credited, were taken by Foodthink.

Editor: Tianle