At a slaughterhouse in eastern Sichuan, over ¥100 million in investment, daily beef sales mean pre-dawn complaint barrages, lost orders over scarce back sirloin, and blood stench that won’t wash off — nineteen years of education shattered by the butchers’ flexibility.
Zou Lei, a Minzu University of China doctoral student, finds through Yunnan fieldwork that Tall-legged, Frizzled Black-boned and other local breeds vanish one by one under the twin pressures of the migrant-labour exodus and imported broilers, severing the breeds Miao betrothals and the Yi Torch Festival depend on.
A joint investigation by Repórter Brasil and Hong Kong Free Press found that four Hong Kong-based companies purchased beef offal from 163 Beef, a slaughterhouse that repeatedly bought cattle from the Heller family farm, charged with deforesting 6,500 hectares.
Gannan herders call imported grain-fed meat “fake meat,” yet with local yak prices steadily falling since 2020 — a single adult yak fetches just over 6,000 yuan — many are forced to buy “fake meat” themselves.
Repórter Brasil built a traceability database combining satellite data and on-the-ground collaboration with indigenous communities, proving JBS was not “unable to trace” but actively used three-legged journeys to launder cattle from deforested ranches into the supply chain, ultimately prompting six major European chain supermarkets to boycott.
Research Fellow Wang Xiaoyi (Institute of Sociology, Chinese Academy of Social Sciences) unpacks the contradiction between pasture-fattened yaks that “can’t fetch a fair price” and local meat that herders “can’t afford”. After marketisation “disembedded” beef and mutton from pastoral life, he asks how to “re-embed” them into the community.
In a small ranching town in Texas, Zhang Yiqing buys eggs directly from free-range backyard hens and small organic farmers, sidestepping supermarket purchase limits and price hikes. She believes decentralised local food systems are the real solution to the egg shortages intensive farming keeps causing.
Sangje, a herder settled in the county town driving a sanitation truck, cannot afford his own yak meat—he boils imported frozen meat with sheep intestines in one pot. Cheap JBS-chain beef is driving live livestock prices into loss, from Gannan to Brazil, and burning the Amazon’s forests.
Wu Longlong, a Beijing University of Agriculture graduate, returned to Ning County in Gansu, letting his black pigs roam free-range on the hills beside the Ziwuling Reserve — rooting grass, gnawing acorns, lapping up spring water, with the occasional brush with a leopard.
Twenty-four years after its ban, “lean-meat powder” is still detectable in pork, and residues of hormones such as trenbolone and metandienone are almost absent from food safety spot-check lists—behind athletes’ positive doping tests lie hidden risks of everyday hormone ingestion for ordinary people.










