Amid Commercial Hybrids, Why Do Farmers Still “Have Seed”?

Seeds are the essential vessels through which plant species carry on. Human flourishing, too, is inseparable from them. All manner of food we eat — whether rice, flour, cooking oils or fresh fruit and vegetables — traces back to a single, tiny seed. And different seeds yield different flavours. In today’s maize, watermelons and tomatoes, we can no longer taste that “vanished flavour of childhood”, and that may well be the result of seeds being swapped out, generation after generation. The old varieties that once took root in particular places, shaped over long years by natural or human selection, simply tasted better.

So why have these old varieties been fading away? When it comes to the seeds on which our very survival depends, perhaps we know far less than we think.

In the latter half of the twentieth century, as populations swelled and the pressure on food supplies intensified, a global agricultural revolution unfolded, driven above all by the pursuit of “high yields”. New varieties — hybrid rice and hybrid maize foremost among them — were rolled out at speed, far outstripping traditional landraces in yield per unit area, uniformity and disease resistance. In China, the widespread adoption of hybrid rice brought nearly a “doubling” of output and was hailed as a critical technological breakthrough in solving the basic problem of feeding the nation. For farmers, choosing varieties that were high-yielding, stable and easy to manage meant a quicker return on the land; for the country, it was a vital underpinning of food security.

But the logic of high yields also quietly reshaped the fate of seeds. Hybrid seed, as a rule, must be purchased anew each year; saving one’s own is all but impossible. Adaptability was standardised, and local terroir gradually slipped into the background. In a system where yield was the paramount measure, those old varieties that grew a little slower, yielded a little less, yet carried unique flavours and were finely attuned to local conditions, began to be dismissed as “not worth it” or “not advanced enough”, and within just a few decades they had vanished from both the fields and the dining table. We eat more fully now, yet without quite realising it, we are eating more and more alike.

As a fundamental means of agricultural production for humankind, the seed touches on food security, legal frameworks, biodiversity, farmers’ livelihoods, food safety and much more. From a single grain of rice to the complexities of genetic engineering, a seed is far from the simple thing we imagine.

This episode brings together friends from near and far, recorded remotely. Through sound, we hope to follow the seed from Thailand to Qiandongnan, from Baoding in Hebei Province to the Philippines. Who decides what we grow decides what we eat. Let us feel the story of the seed — it is the history of agriculture, and it is also a choice for the future.

When it comes to seeds, we in fact have many questions:

  • Why did old varieties disappear so swiftly within just a few decades?

  • How have commercial hybrid seeds changed farmers’ choices about food, and how do they shape what we eat day to day?

  • Why did Filipino farmers take the new variety “Golden Rice” to court?

  • Why do some say: “Protecting old varieties means protecting the human race”?

  • Within the food system as it stands today, is there still a possibility of old seeds making a comeback?

If any of this stirs your curiosity, we invite you to listen to this honest conversation about the land, food, diversity, and “who owns the means of production”. May every seed be seen, and may the freedom to choose what we grow and what we eat be preserved.

Guests / of / This / Episode

Chen Xi

From Qiandongnan, Guizhou · Zhaoxi She. He practises agroecology and rural development in Yangdong Village, saves seeds of more than 20 varieties of local rice and coarse grains, and runs the Yangdong Children’s Public Library.

 

 

 

 

Li Guanqi

Farmers’ Seed Network · Head of the Eastern Office, long involved in in-situ living conservation and advocacy for farm-saved seeds across the country.

 

 

 

 

Chen Ziyu

From Wocuiyuan Family Farm in Baoding, Hebei Province. Together with his family, he runs a 147-mu farm, has followed his father in saving 63 old varieties, and conserves 183 varieties for the Baoding Seed Station.

 

 

 

 

Hosts / of / This / Episode

Jieni

Loves old maize and cares deeply about society and the environment.

 

 

 

 

 

Time / Line / Stamps

02:34 How far removed are seeds from our lives? And how do they shape what we eat?

07:57 Why do old seeds need protecting? Must the old give way when the new arrives?

09:54 Old varieties on the brink of disappearance: red sorghum from Baoding, the thick-skinned, intensely flavoured local watermelons of Qiandongnan…

18:58 Is growing old varieties more or less costly than growing commercial ones?

26:32 What kind of livelihood and daily life do commercial hybrid seeds — seeds that cannot be saved — bring to farmers?

31:52 How did commercial hybrid seeds come about? A quick tour through a century of the seed industry.

48:57 Why did Filipino farmers take the genetically modified rice “Golden Rice” to court? A Southeast Asian farmers’ act of resistance.

57:50 The revelation of Thailand’s “low-yielding rice” trial fields: happy local farmers — so this is how old-variety conservation can work.

61:57 How do old varieties show resilience in the face of climate change? The greater significance of small farms

64:08 Why should we care about seeds? They hold the taste, the memory and the future of all our food.

(Left) Old-variety rice conserved by Chen Xi in Qiandongnan, Guizhou; (Right) On the left, rice seedlings of Honghe Nuo ready for transplanting (with a dense, fibrous root system); on the right, Jingshui Xiang seedlings (with thick, long roots). Image: Chen Xi
Harvesting Heihe Nuomi and digging up old-variety sweet potatoes. Image: Chen Xi
Old-variety Xiaoma Hongmi after grain filling. Image: Chen Xi
Old-variety egg-sized small potatoes. Image: Chen Xi
After Qingming, scooping small fish, shrimp and paddy-field mussels from the fields. Image: Chen Xi
The fields of Qiandongnan after transplanting is complete. Image: Chen Xi
A seed bank in Baoding, Hebei Province. Image: Chen Ziyu
The Philippine civil-society organisation MASIPAG sharing the story of the “Golden Rice” court case in the Philippines. Together with farmers and scientists, MASIPAG used legal action to stop “Golden Rice” from reaching the communities. Image: Chen Ziyu
Visiting a co-operative in Thailand, warmly welcomed by the local women. Image: Chen Ziyu
An old variety of luffa seen during visits in Southeast Asia — one that can hardly be found in China now. Image: Chen Ziyu
A photo of Ziyu with Jon and his wife Peggy, founders of Pun Pun Farm in Thailand. This was also his first trip abroad to exchange agroecology growing knowledge with fellow farmers from other countries. Image: Chen Ziyu

100 People Who Feed Us

Who, through their hands, their ingenuity and their lives, sustains the three meals we eat every day? And what challenges and aspirations, doubts and hopes fill their own days?

The rice in your bowl, the vegetables on your plate, every meal you order on your phone — behind each of them lies a vast and complex reality. To reach out and touch the true shape of that world, Foodthink’s podcast, Food Talk, has launched a new series — “100 People Who Feed Us”. By following the lived experiences of 100 practitioners, the series aims to sketch a professional landscape of “food” and “farming” and to lay bare the most genuine life stories behind what we eat.

We welcome your comments on any podcast platform and will reply from time to time. Scan the QR code below to add Shitong Jun’s WeChat account, note “食日谈” (Food Talk), and join the podcast listeners’ group chat.

Podcast music: Banong

Production of this episode: Xiaojing

Editing of this episode: Jieni, Yuyang

Contact: xiaojing@foodthink.cn