Turns Out Mozzarella and Ricotta Are Family? Video + Foolproof Illustrated Step-by-Step Guide

Modern hygiene thinking generally holds that handmade fermented foods carry a safety risk, and that standardised fermentation with a single culture in a factory is the safe option. But before we accept that narrative, we should recognise that cheese-making is, first and foremost, a gift of nature: the initial microbial environment in cheese-making comes from the diverse mix of bacteria in raw milk; the rennet that coagulates milk comes from the stomachs of ruminants; and in some regions, the leather bags and wooden barrels used to store raw milk also supply beneficial bacteria for fermented dairy products.

Working together, these beneficial microbes bring about a dramatic change in milk’s texture and taste, extending the shelf life of dairy products while adding nutrition and flavour. Research cited by Sandor Katz in The Art of Fermentation shows that the fermentation microbes in traditional fermented dairy are highly diverse, resulting in levels of thiamine (vitamin B1), riboflavin (vitamin B2), vitamin B6 and folic acid that far exceed those in mass-produced Lacto dairy products fermented with a single culture.

So why not try making cheese by hand and experience the joy and deliciousness of fermentation? In this episode of The Alchemy of Food, we invited Liu Yang, proprietor of Bule Handmade Cheese, to demonstrate how to make two Italian fresh cheeses at home using traditional methods: Mozzarella and Ricotta.

Then add a few drops of rennet, stir quickly, then leave to rest for another half hour. By now the whey will have separated from the milk.

After one stir, use a tool to hold the milk still. After resting for an hour, you will find that the liquid in the pot has set to the consistency of silken tofu. At this point, use a knife to cut the fresh curds into squares, then lift them out and place them in a mould to drain.

If you have a pH test strip, you can test the curds – an acidity of 5.2 is the ideal state. At this point you can stretch tender, springy Mozzarella.

Once the pH reaches the right acidity, scald the curds with water at around 70°C until they soften and become elastic. Fold and stretch them repeatedly, then shape them into a round ball. Finally, set them in cold water.

The Italian word ricotta comes from recook, meaning “recook” or “cook again”. Ricotta is made by heating the whey once more.

Let us continue heating the whey left over from making the Mozzarella.

When the whey has been heated to around 40°C, add salt.

at a ratio of 7 g per litre. Then continue heating to 80–90°C. During this process, you will see the curds floating on the surface of the whey in a flaky, cloud-like form. When that happens, turn off the heat.

Leave to rest for about 15 minutes, then use a sieve to lift the floating curds out and place them in cheesecloth to drain. After about 20 minutes, your sweet and delicate Ricotta is ready.

Two cheeses with different flavours can be made almost at the same time. If you do not eat the Mozzarella straight away, it will continue to ferment, turning sour and soft. Soaking it in brine or olive oil will extend its shelf life.

Compared with Mozzarella, Ricotta keeps for less time and is best eaten within three days.

Spread fresh Ricotta on bread, drizzle a little honey on top, and brighten your day with the deliciousness of homemade fermentation!

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