“Capturing” Cultures from the Air? The Magic of Sourdough Fermentation

Have you ever tried sourdough bread?

Commercially available sourdough bread typically uses isolated, high-purity yeast, which speeds up the bread-making process and yields a more consistent final product. Yet these advantages come at the cost of the distinctive flavour, texture, and mouthfeel that traditional mixed cultures offer.

In fact, yeast is everywhere in our environment. All you need to do is create conditions conducive to their survival, and you can “capture” the right microorganisms for fermentation to make sourdough bread.

In this episode of The Alchemy of Food, we’ve invited Yi Jian, who runs Jane&Lucy, to demonstrate how to make a sourdough starter and sourdough bread. To begin, you’ll need 50 g each of wholemeal flour and water.

● Grains and the flour milled from them contain a wealth of microorganisms. Unlike refined flour, wholemeal flour is milled from the whole wheat berry and is teeming with diverse microbes, making it an ideal helper for fermentation.

Stir together the water and wholemeal flour at a 1:1 ratio until well combined, then cover and place in a cool, well-ventilated spot.

Each day, discard half of the mixture and top up with 50 g each of wholemeal flour and water. After roughly 3–5 days, you should begin to see bubbles forming in the jar.

From here, you can continue the culture using ordinary flour, switching the water-to-flour ratio to 1.25:1. After about another 3 days, once the jar is producing a great many bubbles, the starter will be sufficiently active for baking bread.

The starter is best fed daily to maintain its vitality. A high feeding ratio reduces the acidity of the sourdough environment, giving the yeast a competitive edge.

In practice, leave just a small amount of mature starter in the jar, add water and flour at a 1.25:1 ratio, stir well, cover, and leave in a cool, well-ventilated spot to ferment overnight (12 hours). Then refrigerate for storage.

If you won’t be using it for a while, you can freeze or dry a portion of the starter as a starter for next time, so you won’t have to begin from scratch.

A natural sourdough starter is a mixed culture containing yeast, lactic acid bacteria, and acetic acid bacteria. Both acetic acid bacteria and lactic acid bacteria produce acidic compounds, so the bread that results is tangy, rich, and layered in flavour — hence the name “sourdough”.

To make sourdough bread using your homemade starter, you’ll need:

*Sandor Katz, author of The Art of Fermentation, advises: when making sourdough bread, use a small amount of starter — no more than 25% of the total dough — so that the sourness remains delicate and subtle rather than overpowering.

Place the ingredients in a bowl, add four-fifths of the water first, and mix until combined, then continue adding water and kneading until a cohesive dough forms. Cover with a damp cloth and leave to proof in a warm, humid spot for 2 hours.

Once the dough is kneaded, you can add pre-toasted dried fruit.

After 2 hours, check the proof: if the dough springs back quickly when pressed, it needs more time. Both the inherent activity of the natural yeast and the ambient temperature have a significant impact on fermentation.

Once the first proof is complete, shape the dough and place it in a wicker proving basket, cover, and set aside.

Then transfer the dough to the fridge, letting the natural yeast continue its work during the second proof. After an overnight fermentation, you’re ready to begin baking.

Before baking, preheat the oven to 230°C.

Then it’s time to give your loaf a makeover: turn the dough out onto a baking tray, brush off any excess flour, and get creative with your scoring.

You can add an extra baking tray on a lower rack and pour in some hot water, then set a timer for 20 minutes.

After 20 minutes, open the oven door briefly to release the steam — this helps develop colour on the crust. Bake for another 5 minutes or so, and you’ll see a caramel colour appear on the surface. Don’t be alarmed by the deep colour; this is the Maillard reaction at work, generating a wide range of flavour compounds.

The interior of a freshly baked loaf isn’t fully cooked through, so be sure to let it cool before slicing. With a little patience, you’ll be ready to slice and enjoy.

Foodthink at the Guangdong Harvest Festival

01 The Alchemy of Food

Abundance Festival Premiere

1–3 December, Living Square

Not quite satisfied with the Alchemy of Food video series? Come to the Guangdong Abundance Festival, visit the stalls, and feast your eyes on the lot!

From 1–3 December, we’ll be screening the full video series on rotation at the Abundance Festival’s “Living Square” (see the poster for the exact location). Seasoned fermentation experts will share the how-to for ten fermented foods: kombucha, salt koji, kimchi, natural sourdough starter, sourdough bread, natto, mozzarella, ricotta, fermented chillies, and sweet fermented rice.

02 The Fermentation Journey Screening

Saturday 2 December, 10:00–12:00

Few people who’ve gone down the fermentation rabbit hole won’t know The Art of Fermentation or its legendary author, Sandor Katz. What wonderful adventures await this fermentation enthusiast in China, the fermentation kingdom?

Foodthink has obtained permission from Katz and the People’s Republic of Fermentation production team to translate this eight-episode documentary series. Whether you’re a seasoned fermenter or a complete beginner, you’re welcome to join us for a screening at the Abundance Festival. The event is free and no advance registration is required.

Time: Saturday 2 December, 10:00–12:00

Venue: Gongmei Port International Digital Innovation Centre · Tiye Room, Guangzhou Gongmei Port International Digital Innovation Centre

03 Foodthink Takes You Around the Abundance Festival

Online Live Stream

Foodthink has also prepared three live event broadcasts for friends who can’t attend in person:

1 December, 16:00 | Live Stream: 2023 Guangdong Abundance Festival Opening Ceremony
2 December, 10:00 | Live Stream: 2023 Abundance Festival | Foodthink Takes You Around the Fair
3 December, 10:30 | Live Stream: 2023 Abundance Festival | Forum: When Pre-made Meals Meet Local Ingredients

Feel free to book ahead on Foodthink’s Channels — we look forward to sharing the joy of the event with you!

Edited by: Shitong Jun