The Question That Has Long Troubled Working People

A Word from Foodthink

In our previous Eat Well column, dozens of Foodthink readers shared with us those moments when they didn’t want a takeaway. Many also voiced their frustrations: though in a certain moment they didn’t want takeaway, the relentless pace of work, underdeveloped cooking skills, or a bare-bones kitchen meant they still couldn’t truly break the takeaway habit.

If you skip takeaway, what do you eat instead? It seems to be a question that has long troubled working people yet has never been seriously discussed. Fortunately, the wisdom of the people is boundless. This edition of Eat Well brings together tips for Eating Well shared by friends from every corner of the country, compiled into a secret guide to digging in. Come and see if any of these tricks work for you!

Start with the Simplest Meals

For those who rarely cook, standing paralysed at the stove, overwhelmed by dread and anxiety, may be worse than simply enduring takeaway. But working people really don’t need to make things so hard for themselves—just start with something simple. The workplace is cut-throat enough; be a little kinder to yourself when it comes to cooking.

@丹林 (Female, 38, Shanghai): I haven’t had takeaway for at least a year and a half. I cook my own breakfast, eat lunch at the company canteen, and dine in at a restaurant for dinner. I’m a quick cook, and I don’t do the washing up straight after— I put it off until the next morning, which makes the workload feel lighter. My secret for fast cooking is the “one-pot fried rice”: I cook a larger batch of rice, portion it into small containers and pop them in the freezer, then take one out to defrost slightly before stir-frying. You can add whatever ingredients you like—egg, sausage, sweetcorn, green peas, carrots, broad beans, leafy greens—anything goes.

@南乡子 (Female, media professional): I haven’t had takeaway at all since the start of this year. I recently learned how to make claypot rice on Xiaohongshu, and it really is a method that saves time and effort while being healthy and delicious—I highly recommend it! First, buy a small claypot. Rinse one cup of rice (a portion for one person; two cups for two), then soak it in water for about ten minutes. Next, bring it to the boil over a high flame, then turn down to low. When the water is almost absorbed, drizzle a ring of oil around the edges. Lay your pre-sliced sausage and cured pork on top of the rice, put the lid on, and let it cook on low heat for another two or three minutes. Crack an egg over the top, add some vegetables and a splash of sauce, turn off the heat, and a fragrant bowl of claypot rice is done. The whole process takes about fifteen minutes, and you skip all the greasy wok fumes—truly nice.

@树懒 (Female, Shenzhen): Here are three new dishes I’ve been experimenting with recently. Free recipes, take them and enjoy!

Take a big knife and chop vegetables and meat into generous chunks, toss them all into the pressure rice cooker, add a pre-packaged braising spice mix, some vinegar and soy sauce, and in fifteen minutes it’s ready to eat—so satisfying. For the second: egg, ham sausage, a handful of greens and alkaline dried noodles, all stir-fried together—you can recreate the taste of wok-fried noodles from a street stall. Third: beat two eggs with hot water, pour into a bowl, and steam for fifteen minutes to get a mirror-smooth, silky steamed egg custard!

@Vino (Female, 34, editor, Hangzhou): I’ve stocked up on loads of semi-prepared foods—Luosifen snail noodles, Chongqing spicy noodles (xiaomian), Dingxi wide noodles, Fuzhou fish balls—and I just throw them in a pot with some fresh vegetables. No matter what, it’s tastier, healthier and more hygienic than takeaway. I’ve told my friends many times: if you want to give a gift, give food—it’s practical and solves a real problem. I don’t want things that look lovely but serve no purpose. So friends from every corner of the country send me local specialities!

●Fuzhou fish balls and meat wontons (rouyan): bring the water to a boil and cook for about five minutes—once the fish balls float, they’re ready to eat. Photography: Chen Yan
@相前进: I try to plan out a week’s worth of meals in advance and then buy fresh ingredients according to the plan. A simple salad or sandwich works perfectly well as a light meal—that gives me the motivation to get cooking. You can also sign up for a cooking class or look up easy recipes online, pick up new dishes, and enjoy the process of cooking even more.

@王某人 (25, Kunming): The biggest reason I stopped ordering takeaway is that it just tastes too bad. It awakened my inner Sichuanese genes—my home cooking keeps getting better, my partner loves it, and the interplay of frustration on one side and positive encouragement on the other has created a virtuous cycle. Now I find it easy to feel fulfilled and accomplished whenever I cook.

When I don’t fancy going to all that trouble but still want a nutritionally balanced meal, I combine meat, vegetables and a starch all in one dish—stir-fried rice, rice noodles, rice vermicelli or dried rice vermicelli with meat, egg and greens, for example. A few simple seasonings and it’s wonderfully fragrant and delicious. The key is to adjust cooking times according to each ingredient’s nature, and the starch always goes in last. But for tougher meats I cook them to about half-done first, set them aside, then cook the egg or vegetables separately before adding the meat and starch back in. The very practice of cooking grants a sense of truth and order in the world of good food—yet it can also easily make one dwell in a world of “Day and Night, the Kitchen and Love”.

“Cook Once, Eat for a Week”: Homemade Prepared Meals

After a long day, many people simply have neither the energy nor the time left to cook. Why not try homemade prepared meals? Pre-process your ingredients in one go, or batch-cook a week’s worth of dishes in advance to save precious cooking time.

@斯堂: When vegetables are in abundance and I can’t get through them all, I either freeze them or set about fermenting them—whatever I need is there whenever I want it, wonderfully convenient. Firmer vegetables such as peas, edamame, sweetcorn and broccoli are ideal for freezing. I froze some peas last year, and they’re great once thawed for cooking a rice pot or a Tagine. I also bake sourdough bread once a week, slice it, then freeze the slices—perfect for breakfast, just take what you need. Once the frozen bread goes back under the grill, it’s delicious again. Fruit can be frozen too—I’ve frozen bayberries, cherries, longan, mulberries, blackcurrants, raspberries, blueberries and strawberries. I still have last year’s leftover longan in the freezer. Homemade kombucha or sparkling water with a few longan and other fruits on top is incredibly refreshing in hot weather—sweet, tangy, and every bit as good as the fruit drinks out there!

●Sourdough bread baked by Sitang. Photography: Sitang
@肉肉 (Female, 33, Langfang): I used to order takeaway all the time before the pandemic. The lockdowns made me quit it completely, and I started cooking for myself. When my skills were still rough, I bought an automatic stir-fry pan—you prep the ingredients, toss them in, and let it cook. The results are surprisingly decent, and one batch lasts four or five days, portioned out and frozen.

@LTT  (Female, 30, Beijing): My method is to marinate the meat the night before and pop it in the fridge, then either steam it or give it a quick stir-fry when I get home the next day. Cantonese cooking methods work really well here—there are plenty of marinate-ahead recipes to look into. Just wash the vegetables, give them a quick stir-fry, or blanch them and drizzle with a little soy sauce or oyster sauce. And if you enjoy salad greens, that’s even simpler.

@海豚妈米 (Female, 47, Beijing): I order takeaway no more than three times a year, and only when something unusual is going on at home. I once went over a year without ordering anything. When I was commuting, I’d get up early every day to cook and take my lunch to the office in an insulated container. When working from home, I do a single meat run over the weekend, make homemade prepared meals, and portion them into containers for the freezer. Dishes that freeze well for this: braised pork ribs, stewed beef, and so on.

Take stewed beef as an example: cook 1.5 kg at once, divide into three containers, and over the next two months you can quickly turn them into braised beef brisket with radish, braised beef noodle soup, or beef with cabbage and potatoes. Defrost the braised beef the night before, and the next morning all you need is water, salt, vegetables and an egg for a nourishing bowl of beef noodles—convenient and delicious. You can also pre-prepare beef sauce, minced pork, mushroom sauce and so on to add variety to your everyday meals. If eating at home every day feels a bit monotonous, step out for a meal from time to time to change your rhythm and enjoy a moment of ease.

@豆豆: Many people around me always assume that quitting takeaway is hard, and they wonder how I manage to “keep at it”—cooking and bringing my own lunch, never ordering in. But I don’t even feel like I’m “keeping at it”. You only call something persistence when there’s difficulty to overcome—yet in experimenting with homemade prepared meals, I’ve felt a strong sense of accomplishment, even enjoying the whole process and the results. If you decide to give it a try, I’d suggest starting with frozen ingredients that haven’t been heavily processed, or shelf-stable convenient foods. The most common options are frozen diced vegetables, frozen peeled prawns, and the ready-to-eat corn cobs that a lot of people have been loving recently. I love browsing the supermarket freezer—the ready-made dishes in there are a great reference. Well-established frozen foods have been market-tested and usually don’t taste bad; we can use them as a guide to recreate at home, right down to how they’re cooked.

Eating Isn’t a One-Person Affair

Sometimes cooking for yourself, all on your own, really is hard. But with the care of family, the company of friends, or even finding a cooking buddy to lean on, it gets so much easier. The emotional bonds between people can perhaps become a motivation to eat well, while also easing the burden of cooking.

@面团晶晶: When I was working in Shenzhen, the relentless, inescapable pressure of the job meant I often ended up ordering takeaway. Then there was a stretch when my dad was also in Shenzhen, and I made sure to come home for dinner every evening. Before he returned to Xi’an one time, he froze a batch of packed dumplings, hand-pulled noodles, saozi (a traditional meat-and-vegetable noodle sauce), fresh tomatoes, and blanched yardlong beans in my fridge. That way, even if I had no time to go grocery shopping, I could get home and whip up a simple noodle soup with some greens. After a while, though, these quick veggie meals could no longer satisfy me—I’m a greedy little cat who one day suddenly craved meat. So I started trying to make dry-fried spare ribs myself, and thus began my culinary journey up the ladder.

@冲冲: Besides cooking for myself, I take turns hosting dinner gatherings with friends. You really do need to find a way to live in community—cooking alone is just too hard.

@qiqi: I remember when I went to view the flat before moving in, my new roommate asked me with a grin, “Do you cook often?” She showed me the kitchen—neat and bright, with every pot, pan, and bottle of oil, soy sauce and vinegar in its own place. Even more delightful, the fridge had absolutely no funky smells; the vegetables were arranged in neat rows, as if they knew they wouldn’t be forgotten at the back.

My new roommate loves messing about in the kitchen making mantou, baozi, dumplings and all kinds of wheat-based treats. I’m often the lucky beneficiary of her bountiful spreads, which naturally motivates me to try out new dishes to share as well. In the two years since we moved in, I’ve picked up a whole repertoire of dishes I could never make before, and remarkably, I’ve barely ordered takeaway at all. Eating has gone from a problem to be solved to something I look forward to every single day.

●Dumplings wrapped together by qiqi and her roommate. Photography: qiqi
@樟一棵: I now make some of my own prepared meals or pre-process ingredients, trying to balance nutrition, simplicity and efficiency. I’ve also found a colleague to be my lunch buddy—we take turns cooking, which solves the problem of always making too much for one person.

Is the Workplace Canteen Tasty Again?

The workplace canteen is a place people love and hate in equal measure. Some grumble that the food is terrible, while others envy the perk of a canteen provided by their employer. After years of suffering through “cheap takeaway”, how do people view the workplace canteen today?

@豆薯 (Male, 32): After a morning’s work, having a fixed place to go and drifting there in little groups with colleagues gives me a sense of order, which eases fatigue in some way. If I were stuck at my desk ordering takeaway, I’d feel rather down. That said, our workplace canteen is all-you-can-eat buffet style, and when work pressure gets heavy, I eat a lot at lunch to cope, which has sent my weight skyrocketing—very frustrating.

@cutedog (Male, 24, researcher): Every workplace I’ve been at has had a canteen, and because of subsidies, the food is quite affordable. After eating there long enough, colleagues often grumble that the flavours are monotonous, but it’s still far better than being forced to order takeaway. Think about it—the canteen menu is actually quite diverse: you can see the usual stir-fries, but also speciality noodle dishes, pastries, and braised items, like braised duck head and braised pork knuckle. At the checkout there are also fruits and yoghurt, so the meal pairing is fairly balanced.

@Vino (Female, 34, editor, Hangzhou): Two years ago, I was working in a big city, and there were only two restaurants downstairs from the office. I still insisted on going down to eat. Later I made a suggestion to the company, and the boss hired a cook. The salary is covered by the company, and we each chip in 20 yuan a day for the ingredients—five dishes and a soup at every meal. Bliss!

@玉阳 (Male, 29, Beijing): Joining Foodthink has probably increased my cooking frequency more than anything else. In the old desk-based days, colleagues took turns cooking for everyone. And because there were so many people, we always had at least six dishes to start. The process really honed my skills. What feels most comfortable is that whether the cooking turns out well or badly, everyone is rather forgiving—giving those with average cooking skills room to improve.

So unlike an ordinary workplace canteen, here you don’t just get a meal perk—you also build the ability and the habit of cooking, which then extends into your family life, making more dishes for the people you love. It’s been clumsy at times, and I’ve had my share of disasters, but looking back, those dishes—scallion-braised tofu, spare rib and kelp soup, spinach with crushed peanuts, qiangban tofu—were all truly made by my own two hands!

●Scallion-braised tofu cooked by Yuyang. Photography: Zhou Xuan

The Quiet Rise of the Community Canteen

In order to eat properly, many young people are choosing to slip into community canteens originally meant for elderly residents—perhaps a new trend. Which cities have community canteens? In which corners of the city are they hidden? We urgently need a guide to community canteens!

@陈婷婷: A community canteen opened near my home not long ago. Whenever I can’t be bothered to cook but also don’t want takeaway, I go there. It doesn’t seem to be the kind of community canteen that caters to elderly residents, though—there’s a huge variety, the dishes are beautifully presented, the service is great, and although the Wuchang rice comes free as much as you want, the prices are still on the high side. For two people, three dishes come to 100 yuan. I’m not sure whether this qualifies as a high-end community canteen. I assumed the prices would put people off and that it wouldn’t last long, but it turns out there are quite a lot of diners! On weekday evenings and at weekends, it’s mostly parents bringing their children. It’s quite moving—I get the feeling this community canteen has quietly liberated parents. Now I just hope it makes enough money to stay open.

@Road: There’s a community canteen near our residential compound. It’s mainly for the elderly in the neighbourhood, but they’ve explicitly stated it’s open to all age groups. There’s a wonderful variety of dishes, priced between 7 and 15 yuan. I don’t actually have high standards for flavour diversity—what really makes me feel at ease is how clean and refreshing the dishes taste, without heavy oil or salt, and without that stale, off smell you get when food sits in a plastic container. Most importantly, compared with the dry, undercooked rice you get from takeaway, the rice here is so good that I could eat an entire bowl plain. Sometimes I feel the biggest difference between eating at home and eating out is simply that one bowl of steaming-hot rice! This community canteen gives me exactly that feeling. But I do have to say, it’s still unfriendly to working people—dinner is only available until about six, yet many of us don’t get home until after seven.

●One evening, Road came home from work to find a notice on the compound gate announcing the opening of a community canteen, and felt a wonderful surprise. It meant one more way to eat, beyond takeaway and cooking for yourself. Photography: Road
@红糖糍粑 (Male, Shanxi): I’ve been living alone in the city for so long that besides cooking for myself, ordering takeaway, or going out for a meal, I couldn’t think of any other way to feed myself. When I first heard about community canteens, I thought they must be some fancy, high-end thing—until one day a community canteen appeared right downstairs from my flat, looking fresh and full of life. They serve home-style cooking, and their noodle dishes are actually better than what you get from the noodle shops outside. More importantly, having such a canteen nearby gives me a sense of control over my daily rhythm. It’s a place you can walk to the moment you feel like eating, which cuts out the anxiety of waiting for a takeaway delivery.

@lislie: The first time I ate at a community canteen was at one set up near a renovated wet market that was held up as a model. It had an open kitchen where the cooking was visible to diners. The menu wasn’t much wider than a typical pick-and-pay canteen, but each dish looked fresh and clean, with meat, fish, soups, vegetables and grains all covered. The space was generous, you could order à la carte, and there was a discount notice for delivery riders hanging beside the rice station. The lunch crowd came in two waves: elderly neighbours, and office workers (I gathered that many employers have set up accounts there for their staff).

Beyond government-run community canteens, I’ve also eaten at a privately run community eatery. Every day the owner posts lunch and dinner set menus in a WeChat group: a Yunnan-style starch, plus a dessert (you can also add a house-made wine or drink the owner makes that day), for around 40 yuan. Anyone wanting a meal simply adds their name to the group’s sign-up list, then walks to the kitchen to collect their food and find a seat. Once you’ve finished, everyone tacitly carries their dishes back to the kitchen. The owner told me that at first people came just to check it out, but gradually it became mostly familiar faces—she could name every regular. Most of them were small groups of young people, who’d greet the owner on the way out or exchange little gifts. A warm, comfortable atmosphere hangs over the place.

Finding Affordable Eateries That Taste Great

When it comes to satisfying working people’s day-to-day need for an affordable meal, it’s the little neighbourhood restaurants on the street, not the branded chain outlets, that are the real answer. Do you have such places near you? Share them in the comments below, and let’s map out affordable eateries across the country together.

@Carrie: If you’re from the south, it must be just as hard to order takeaway in Beijing, right? Sometimes you just want a balanced combo of meat, vegetables and a bowl of soup, but the whole app is stuffed with Shuizhu niurou (poached beef in fiery Sichuan broth), Maoxuewang (spicy blood curd and tripe stew)—the sort of thing that leaves you hot-blooded, spicy and irritable. A few years ago there was a chain, pay-by-weight canteen called Jiao’er Canteen—I loved it. You could pick freely from a wide selection of dishes, but sadly it’s closed now. Fast-food places like that, where you can build your own balanced meal, seem almost impossible to sustain in Beijing.

I used to work near Zhongguancun. The so-called premium fast-food joints for working people were out of my budget, but there was one little weigh-and-pay restaurant on the ground floor beneath our office. The name was as random as the place was tiny, yet at lunchtime it was packed. I ate there every single day, and I still think about it often. On my last day before leaving the job, I went back for one final meal—a little send-off to myself. Now, if I happen to be in the area on errands, I still make a point of popping in. Every time I see it open, still bustling with customers, it fills me with joy. This is a small act of defiance and a quiet form of guardianship. A megacity should have room for a humble fast-food joint—and for all its ordinary people.

●A food street near Zhichun Road in Beijing, lined with affordable eateries. Photography: Carrie
@poplar (Male, 29, devoted table tennis player): Every time I finish training with my coach, I head to a little shop called Xianghe Meat Pie near Chedaogou Metro Station, get myself one of their meat pies and a bowl of egg jiuzao (sweet fermented glutinous rice with egg), and it’s hands-down the tastiest meal I’ve had all week. That tiny restaurant carries all the joy and satisfaction of a good session at the table. If I spend a weekend huddled at home ordering takeaway, the day just… doesn’t happen.

@不想做美食达人: No takeaway? Then just walk downstairs to one of the little neighbourhood shops. I’m not sure whether deciding to order less takeaway made me discover all these little places nearby, or whether it worked the other way around. Either way, once you decide to walk or cycle to a shop in the neighbourhood for a meal, you start noticing them: dumpling places, stir-fry shops, noodle houses (one of them serves what might be the most authentic roujiamo in Beijing)… Three Chongqing noodle shops, no less, and they’re all frequently recommended on Xiaohongshu. When I was ordering takeaway, I completely ignored them—I had no idea what they sold, assumed they were just dodgy backstreet stalls. Then a couple of times I actually walked past and realised—they’re not hole-in-the-wall joints at all! They’re spotlessly clean, bright little shops. The thrill of finding a tasty, affordable little gem like that is even better than stumbling on some “Best xxx in the city”—because you can visit a place like that once a month at most, whereas the little shop round the corner can actually sort out your everyday meals.

Finding a Wet Market Near You

Sometimes even those who cook regularly don’t decide their menu in advance—they browse the wet market, weighing up what to buy, letting the day’s produce inspire their shopping list. That creative sense of ease is truly enviable. But first, we need a wet market with rich variety and honest value for money—only then do we have the space to let our creativity run free.

@菜市场初学者: Not ordering takeaway really just means cooking for yourself! But by the time I get home from work it’s late, I still have to prep ingredients—just thinking about it is exhausting, and some nights I genuinely can’t face it. Washing and chopping are quick enough, but thawing frozen meat takes absolutely ages. I’ve tried ordering from Hema (Freshippo)—I get home, the groceries arrive. But the meat portions at Hema are oddly sized: one pack is too much for one person, too little for two; two packs leave leftovers. So I’m not entirely sold on ordering from there.

Recently I discovered a wet market near my office. You can buy exactly as much meat as you want, sliced to order—thin slices, fine shreds, whatever you need. I never knew this was an option! If I fancy cooking something but don’t know which cut to pick, I just ask the stallholder directly—no more scrolling back and forth on my phone. It makes life so much easier: I get home and straight into cooking, no more worrying about thawing. I’ve been a bit of a wet-market regular lately—I wander the aisles after work and realise these places really have everything. As a southerner, spotting a vegetable I used to eat all the time as a child here in a northern wet market—well, that’s one more point for being deeply moved. A wet market is what-you-see-is-what-you-get; keep wandering and you’ll always find something.

●Wudaokou Wet Market: fruit and veg, meat, eggs, dairy, rice, flour, cooking oil, grains and alcohol, fresh produce and dry goods—everything you could possibly need. Photography: Ning Chen

@噬可可 (Female, 28, researcher, Tianjin): There are plenty of breakfast shops near my home, and Tianjin’s largest wet market is right there too. On weekend mornings I often cycle to the early market for fresh, affordable ingredients. Later I came across Green Footprint, a community in Tianjin that runs a sustainable market, and through them I connected with a few small-scale organic farmers nearby, so I could get a weekly veg delivery. Once the vegetables started arriving at my door, the barrier to cooking dropped even further. A colleague at work shares the same values, so we split deliveries and swap cooking tips and food inspiration.

@管老师 (Male): I stopped ordering takeaway for two reasons. First, during spells without work travel, I got into the habit of cooking for myself. Vegetables arrive straight from a nearby organic farm—fresh doorstep delivery, and I mix and match as I please. Starches and grains come from local growers at my work location or from an organic platform—everything kept simple. After cooking for myself long enough, I’ve even cut back on salt (I’ve had a tub of soybean paste from the Beijing Organic Farmers Market that still hasn’t been finished after two years). Second, when I’m away on business trips I can’t cook, but I get a wonderful chance to explore local flavours. Small-town eateries and farmers’ markets may not flaunt organic or eco credentials, but the ingredients are clean and the cooking is honest and unpretentious. Now, every time I visit a new place I love wandering through the farmers’ market. If something catches my eye—a local speciality—I add the stallholder on WeChat so I can order remotely later, and we chat about the region’s produce and traditional methods of making.

●Tofu sausage purchased by Guan Laoshi in Mangshi, Yunnan, this year. Photography: Guan Laoshi

@泡泡熊: In 2018, while I was on a visiting fellowship in the US, I discovered that a park not far from the university hosted a Farmers’ Market every week. My mum was travelling with me at the time and was dying to check it out—in her words: “I simply must go and see for myself—whether their market’s any good compared to ours back at Xintianzhai, Zhongpo Babatou.” We bought okra, tomatoes, pumpkin, green beans and aubergine—the selection was mostly vegetables. Most stallholders had already weighed and portioned their produce into neat little boxes; once you’d picked what you wanted, you tipped it all into a bag and off you went—quick and breezy, very much the American South.

One day after we were back home, Mum told me she’d spotted a little organic food shop while browsing a shopping centre—on the lower ground floor. The girl in the shop was wonderfully warm and even gave her two bunches of slightly wilted pak choi. A little wilted, yes, but no bother—just soak them in water and they perk up. That evening Mum stir-fried the pak choi, and it was clean, sweet—exactly the taste from when I was small. Truly lovely. The next day I rushed off to check out the shop, and it turned out to be called Jishi Tang—a hub linking the various organic farms around Beijing, selling farm-gate direct produce and hosting the Beijing Organic Farmers Market every week. I became a Jishi Tang member, watched the little shop move premises, and even volunteered there for a while. It’s been nearly seven years now.

From Field to Table

Some people take the story of food beyond the dining table and trace it all the way back to the fields and hedgerows, learning how things grow from the soil. In that process, they’ve discovered a new way of living—and even helped others build a more resilient system of everyday sustenance.

@青然: I’m one of those mums who moved here to support her child’s schooling, so I have plenty of time to cook. When I do order takeaway, it’s purely out of laziness. When I don’t, I simply cook for myself—though I’ve become wary about the produce around me. Once, I bought an aubergine from a supermarket whose flesh was spongey and hollow, bearing no resemblance to any vegetable I knew. It looked as if plastic had somehow grown itself into that shape—it genuinely frightened me.

On the ninth day of the Lunar New Year, I found an ecological farm near my home and, together with ten others, we rented out a greenhouse. I have roughly sixty square metres of land inside it where I’ve planted a few vegetables, hoping for a decent harvest. I wouldn’t dare think long-term, but within half a year I doubt I’ll order takeaway again.

@扣子 (Female, 60, farmer): If I’m at my own home, I could go without takeaway forever. I’d like to recommend maifan to everyone here—a staple common throughout northern China, called zhengcai (steamed vegetables) in Henan. As the name suggests, you simply toss vegetables in wheat flour and steam them to eat. In my home province of Shandong, the Jiaodong dialect word “ba la” (to toss and mix) reveals the ultimate secret of maifan: toss the vegetables with flour, steam them in the basket, then toss again with seasonings before they go into your mouth.

Although spring offers the richest variety of vegetables for maifan, it can actually be made in every season. Whenever I go to the village market, I always beg a handful of discarded outer cabbage leaves and carrot tops—these humble, everyday greens are perfect for the dish. Slightly tougher carrot tops, paired with grated carrot and flour, all tossed together and steamed, are even better. Compared with baking, boiling, pan-frying, deep-frying or stir-frying, steaming maifan preserves more nutrients and keeps the natural flavour intact. It delivers both carbohydrates and vegetables, accepts any ingredients you have to hand, is low in difficulty, has no barrier to entry—and is especially welcoming for those with no cooking experience at all.

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@一锅师太: When I worked at a bookshop in Yulin (Guangxi), I noticed that the owners and staff on the same street as the shop ordered takeaway for almost every lunch and dinner. I worried about their health, and the packaging waste from takeaway bothered me too. After bringing meals for the bookshop staff a few times, the idea of a small shared dining table began to take shape. The bookshop’s storeroom had formerly been a private home-style restaurant, so the pots, pans and utensils were all ready to use. All I needed to do was rally the shopkeepers nearby to pool our money and buy produce from our farming friends, while I planned the menus and did the cooking. Those who had previously had no option but takeaway suddenly had access to clean, wholesome home-cooked meals—and our fellow growers gained a small boost in sales too. Although I left that bookshop soon after, the vision of this “shared table” came true. My flatmate, the brother-and-sister team who run the plant shop downstairs, and I launched version 1.0 of our shared table together.

Our vegetables and grains all come from organic-minded growers. Clean, healthy soil rich in organic matter produces crops that not only taste wonderful but are packed with trace elements essential to wellbeing. Cooked simply and eaten with care, they have a gentle, restorative effect on the body. After six months of the shared table, the health and spirits of our dining companions grew steadily better. Before long, they developed a genuine physical need for those wholesome vegetables—and even for the ritual of “collecting your packed meal on time”. Especially after a weekend spent “just grabbing something” at home or “feasting without restraint” at a restaurant, they’d look forward to the various vegetables in their shared-table lunch box with intense anticipation.

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Thank you to all our readers who shared their tips for Eating Well. We will select five takeaway-quitting friends from among them to receive a gift, and invite one more to join us for lunch at the Foodthink office. If you have a similar experience or a better trick up your sleeve, we’d love to hear it—drop a comment below. You can also forward this Secret Guide to Digging In to any friends who live off takeaway. If you want to eat well, there are always more solutions than obstacles. Let’s get on with it together!

Planning: Kai Rui

Editing: Yuyang